Robert King

I have a budget 10" upper. Nothing fancy about it but it functions very well and I really like it. I need to finish it off with a comp. Keeping with the theme, I want an inexpensive comp, not looking to spend the $80+ I am finding. Any suggestions on a low end that is good for the short barrel? I was told a $40 DPMS worked well, but it is out of stock.

Anyone had a chance to play with one? How did you like it. Anyone know the ship date yet?

I have several questions about making some changes to a 1911. In this case, I am looking at doing these changes to both a Spartan 5" 9mm and Trojan 5" 45acp. I would like to add a magwell and have decided I would like to use the STI. I am going to want to install VZ Slim Operator grips at the same time. I see STI sells both the magwell alone and the magwell in combination with a MSH. What is the process to install, is fitting required and how difficult is it? Should I be looking at just the magwell or the combo with the MSH? I want to go with the thin grips but wide magwell. When installing VZ slim grips, do I need to change out bushings in grip? When I order VZ slim grips, will they fit with a STI magwell or will they need to be modified? What is the process and difficulty level of installing an STI ambi safety in a Spartan or Trojan?

What dies, bullets and brass are needed for 9x23? Saw the revolver for sale in the classifieds and curious.

Browning BAR in 300 win mag is a semi-auto I use. The comp does not work really well for hunting, but is a last resort for me. The other thing I have to do is go lefty on rifle sometimes. None of it is easy, but it has been about 7 years for me and is working out ok.

I really like KKM, but have done Lone Wolf and the are fine. I just hate the poor job they do etching in the logo.

Sell it and get a 17 if you want to shoot production and IDPA. Or, just shoot limited the way it is. If you are just getting into competitive shooting, those extras probably will not change for placement in a match by any real margin. Just have fun and get really good with the stock gun, then add the extras later when you can afford them. It is not worth going into debt just to build a limited gun, I know this first hand.

If I have to use commercial and not my loads, Magtech 40G always makes major.

Tape it to the toes on both sides and splint it with a Popsicle stick. Two years ago I broke my toe as an RO at Iron Man. I still managed to shoot the second match with the broken toe and I didn't even come in last place. Now that was rough, shooting iron man with a broken toe.

I reuse it many times, at least a dozen. I have used the same gallon of MPro 7 for a year. After three or four uses, depending how dirty it is, run it through a coffee filter.

First, I would never reload without access to a chrono. It is not safe, IMHO. When I load 40, my taget is 1.135. My personal tolerance is anywhere between 1.125 and 1.145. Not a significant enough difference in power factor to matter for me.

Good for you. B will come pretty quick.

I have used Federal Small Rifle for 9mm major and minor, 40 major and minor. They were never more than 15fps faster than small pistol. It was easier to just buy one kind of primer for everything. I've shot them from Glocks, XDM's and STI's. Some with factory triggers and some with fancy triggers, never had a problem that was related to the primer.

Get the 650 and buy a case feeder later. Make some brass feeder tubes from PVC until you can afford the case feeder.

Good for them. I wish all manufacturers would take the direction Barrett took in CA. If they don't allow the citizens to own it, don't sell it to the LE or state agencies.

Only advantage I have seen is the ambi safety and back straps. I think they are an advantage for smaller hands. Less aftermarket support, especially for used stuff, is a disadvantage.

I just used rebar for clay holders. Don't work for steel knock downs, but are great for just clays.

I've shot both and think the frame mounted is faster for follow up shots. With a light steel load, you never loose sight of the dot. With slide monted, you loose sight of the dot and have to reaquire. Neither of these were owned by me, so with more practice, the slide mount might not be an slower, but doubt it. I figure there is a reason 99% of the 2011's are frame mounted. But, for a recreational shooter not overly concerned with getting every possible advantage, a slide mounted is a really easy DIY, cheaper and has better holster options. With a quality dot sight, I would not be overly concerned about it breaking. The Leupold comes with Glock mounting options as does the Burris.

I read that some dot mounts need the ejection port lowered. How much material needs to be removed? Where exactly? And if you remove to much, does that create problems with function or ejection? Any pics would be appreciated.

Mag tech part number 10G is a popular factory round that makes major. Many factory 40 will not make major.

I add brass until it almost stops rotating.

Mags are easier to find for the Gen 3.

I ran 3.5" turkey loads through mine, for 3 gun. Had to keep the piston really clean.

You should look at a Redding Competition Seating die. Makes it a lot easier and more repeatable. I would also suggest the EGW undersized seating die. My Glock likes anything from 1.120 to 1.145 OAL. You need a chrono or borrow one, to be safe. Lots of good load data here on the forum.

Anyone making one? Anything new at SHOT about someone making one? That is the only drawback I see between the 5.25 and a Glock.