anilson

I just shot a match where a buddy came up to me after to show me his brand new edge that was not feeding. This gun was hard chromed, the gun was full of brass shavings. Needed some slide tuning and cleaning. The brass got into the extractor tunnel and keep the gun from feeding. (caused the extractor to stop moving freely)

If your fitting a pt grip to the frame make sure it will slide on, if you have to hit it then your likely to have stress in places under recoil, You might need to fit the front screw area or the area in the rear around the rear grip screws, the older sti guns need lots of work here and the newer ones need less.

a 4" will not be nearly as forgiving as a 5" depending on who built it the 4" could be less reliable

40 cal 2011s that are factory made are a gamble, i have seen guns that run and some that don't. The mags are very important, and must be tuned. 40 cal single stack guns have a problem that the 2011s don't. Then bullets stack in the mag (start to tilt down when the mag is full) You need good mags and they often need to sit higher in the gun then a 45acp mag would. Factory guns will be like the 2011s very hit or miss.

Fp 10 works in all weather (we test -10F) archiol 4400 in warmer weather archiol 4200 in colder weather (sub 40F) I have not tested this below 0 yet but believe it will work as well as fp10

The best lube is one the seeks a bearing surface I like: fp10 archoil

pt grips need no fitting 99% of the time on pt frames pt grips need to be fitted to sti frames and can be a hour to 4 of work (sti frames over the years have very different dimensions) if you doing a new gun go pt for frame and grip

Aics, what is the comp setup on the older high PF gun? Do you have any barrel ports?

Very interesting, would you use the same setup for 9mm and 38 super?

Ok, Eric what is the best 9mm comp set up?

Hi all, Looking for thoughts of shooters of weather they want soft shooting open guns or flat shooting open guns. And what the best setup is for them.

Hi All, Interested in your experiences with comps and barrel porting. Please only post if you have some data or real life experience (The comp i use is the best, does not help)

The bullet works is selling plated bullets cheap, i shoot them for practice in 40cal The cost is about the same as coated bullets right now

Both the steel Grip and the aluminum grip change how the gun recoils over the plastic grip. I believe that its not just a weight issue but also a flex issue.

i use PT grips with a manny holster, works perfect

The more you run Race Guns and the more you want to win tells you weather or not you need a backup gun. I go to every match with 2 guns. I have seen guns from lots of builders go down at matches. Guns go down for many reasons: Bad ammo Part breaks (every part has a failure rate, even if its low you could get the bad one) Gun was not broken in on the bench (builders can break all the edges of the guns, this eliminates break in periods) Gun was build improperly Part or spring wears out mag issues The best guns will have very low failure rates these guns will be in the $5k range, but they still can have problems (just very rare). $3k to $4k guns will be more of a hit or miss some will run great some will have issues. I would always go to a match with two guns just to make sure i can finish the match. Its been a while since i have had a gun go down in a match, but i have had it happen and getting another gun that is the same out of your bag is awesome. Remember we are racing guns, like racing cars reliability is necessary and the more we push the limits the more we risk breaking things. The intake in a race car is priced on how much time is in the polishing. Guns should be the same, the more internal work and polishing the better they will run and longer they will last.

i run dawson steel 2011 main spring housing in all my 2011s for both weight and because the plastic ones will wear funny after some rounds. polish the steel ones for best results and use long main spring cap

EGW Hard Sear (only) EGW hammer or Koenig hammer 17lb main spring SVI disconnector dawson steel main spring housing long main spring cap (only) These are the best parts and will last the longest, they will need to be tuned

hard chrome done by the right people will fit this for many tens of thousands of rounds

looks like a brazo's trigger kit, if so i would have the sear changed out for a egw hard sear. it will need to be tuned by a good gunsmith

The only way to make a cheap 2011 is to make it loose, and come up with a mag system that does not require tuned mags. I don't this is around the corner.

the pt aggressive grip on my bench is 10.2 and a uncut sti plastic grip is 2.8oz so 7.5 to 8oz is the range

The most important part of a gun helping you win a match is that it does not have a malfunction, each one will cost you 1.5sec minimum and up to DQ. If your competitive you want a gun, ammo, and mags that work 99.9% of the time (remember its a system). Some builders have cool looking guns and some builders have gun that just plan run, and some can do both.

Last post is most likely correct. What are the distances on your mag feed lips on the top where it holds the bullet. I like the rear at .375 and front at 3.90 This makes the bullets point up a bit. You also need a chamfer on your barrel, I bet you don't

The Builders building guns that cost 2750-3000 have about 10-12 hours in them cost 4000-5000 have about 20 hours in them The more custom internal tuning your gun has the better will run, last longer, and be way more reliable.