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jmcqueen

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About jmcqueen

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Richmond Va
  • Interests
    steel, uspsa,reloading
  • Real Name
    john mcqueen

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  1. All of mine started coming apart at once. I have a feeling it was the lube that did it. Using Rem oil now and the replacements from the hardware store are holding up.
  2. I am looking for a durable magwell, maybe Aluminum for a GMR 15. Anyone seen a good one?
  3. I just did mine. It came out great and a light touch drops the mag. I got the tap and matching drill bit at Fastenal. Locate where you want the button to sit and mark holes on release. Make sure you have right punch that just freely goes on pin hole for lever pin. Lightly tap out roll pin, it should not be hard if you have the right punch. Drill first hole and tap it. Make sure alignment is good dill second hole, Remove button and tap hole. The drill bit you get may be a reverse bit, if it does not drill reverse direction. I think the tap will hit the frame if you try it on the gun. I oiled the pin. John
  4. My JP13 has a velocity a lot deviation as a result of being a blow back action. Sometimes 60-70 fps. Slow powders are worse in this regard than medium powders. What I find is that I need to use the lowest velocities out of the strings to decide on my power factor and the proper load. If I load using the average I can end up with some rounds under power factor needed to function the gun well. It only takes 1 in 100 cause a interruption.
  5. Odin makes the mag release buttons. I drilled two holes in lever button, tapped them and now dump mags as well as any pistol.
  6. I have a Gonex Tactical 35L, works great. $43 on Amazon
  7. Has anyone come up with a good way to extend and or lower the mag release button on the JP 13? I frequently just miss pushing it in.
  8. More and more frequently my Limcat 9 major gets a fired shell locked either all the way in the chamber or occasionally slightly out. The slide continues back and tries to feed next round. When slide closes on case it grips it really well so it does not seem to be the extractor. It takes a steel rod to get spent brass out of chamber. The brass is swelled above the rim for a 1/4" I have down loaded to below major and it is still occurring, worse with foreign brass and Freedom does it 50% of the time. Primers are not flattened with down loaded rounds except some of the swelled ones. Any ideas?
  9. I have two identical c-mores. When I take the very same diode, 8mm, and try it in each gun there is a big difference in brightness even when I use the same batteries. So there can be a lot of variance between units, not just diodes.
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