gerritm

I had an RO tell me that using 2 cinched mags as a mono pod moves you to open. Is that true?

I don't know why this will be so difficult. Take the 9mm original factory chrome mag that came with the guns and duplicate it. I have thousands of rounds thru mine with no problems and regularily load it to 15 plus rounds. It works, it is always the aftermarket mags with the shim plates either front or back that seems to cause the problems. Even those I have figured out how to tune and make work most of the time.

I decided to stay with my Limited Pro in 9mm. I don't shoot enough USPSA yet to go with another gun. I am comfortable with this set up and I think it worked out pretty good. Henning set me up with this magwell, grips, and new mag bases. Here are some before and after pictures.

Mine also came with the ambi safety, tact latch, JP trigger, and plastic case. No special order, bought off Gunbroker. I also remember seeing the specs that said all of that was included, but I just checked DPMS website and the extended latch and ambi safety are not in the specs anymore. I have at least 1500 rounds thru it and absolutely no problems. Feeds everything thru 30 round steel mags that came with it and Magpul P mags. Only thing I had to do was sand the P mags down a little so they drop free easily. They were a little tight.

They may use different chokes. FN barrels I have seen use Invector chokes. SX2's use Invector Plus, not sure if they interchange, but otherwise they should swap.

I have been shooting my 9mm Limited Pro in production in USPSA for about a year. Thanks for all the info. I tend to shoot accurately with many A zone shots, but I am slow mainly to keep them in the A zone. Typical, as I speed up I tend to throw a few more out of the A. So that is my thinking with a more dedicated gun with a larger capacity less reloads. I have talked to Henning in the past and will get ahold of him. The more I see the more going to a .40 and major makes sense. I really like the Tanfo's and cost is a factor. Sure I would love to go buy a 2K STI built limited gun, but I am not at that point in my shooting career. I do some reloading going to .40 will push me to do more reloading.

Sorry for the error on class. I fogot about the power factor. I was trying to keep the ammo cost down. I guess then it would be Limited 10 "division" if I stayed with 9mm. I wanted some feedback from you guys, so when I talk to Henning I had some ideas.

I have a 9mm DA Limited Pro and have been shooting in the production class. I want to start shooting limited. What is the best Tanfo or EAA gun for this and what modifications would it need to be competitive? I was thinking of a SA Match in 9mm. What about mag capacity?

I shoot the Federal FMJ ammo and I have found it to be very inconsistent in accuracy. Try better quality ammo. Also if you are not using a solid rest or something like a lead sled it might help with the groups.

You won't be dissapointed. I have about 1K rounds thru mine and it has been perfect. I wish I could shoot as good as the rifle performs. I don't reload and use PMC and Federal 55 gr shells and knowing the potential of good hand loads or even the more custom Black Hills and Hornady loads it would shoot even better.

Great video, my attention span is usually pretty short, but I didn't even fall asleep.

Theoretically its easy. For every 100yds with your scope you add 1/2" to your click value and divide your bullet drop by that number for your click value at that range, and round. For example: 100yd = zero (1/2" turret value) 200yd = -1.8" drop divide by 1 = 1.8 (2 clicks) 300yd = -9.4" drop divide by 1.5 = 6.2 (6 clicks) 400yd = -24.6 drop divide by 2.0 = 12.3 (12 clicks) 500yd = -50.2 drop divide by 2.5 = 20.08 (20 clicks) Etc. Etc. But you still should verrify these numbers at distance as they are theoretical, and there are many variables unique to each condition. Most software that provides the drop data also provides the click adjustment as well. Thanks, this is what I was looking for, I knew there was a basic formula to calculate this. Charles thanks for the book advice, I will try to find one.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say that you have your rifle zeroed at 25yds for a 200yd shot. If your turret is giving you 1/2" per click, then that's a 1/2 MOA adjustment. 1 MOA @ 100yds = 1" 1 MOA @ 200yds = 2" 1 MOA @ 300yds = 3" etc. To adjust the scope to shoot at 500yds, then you have to know what the drop is for your load in your rifle. A ballistics program will help get you the approximate information but after that, you will need to test. You shoot a lot and make copious notes and build up a set of notes (often called dope). Have a look at this web site for a course on scope adjustments. Quote: I'm not sure what you mean when you say that you have your rifle zeroed at 25yds for a 200yd shot. I have my rifle set up so it follows the bullet trajectory and arc. At 25 yards the 55 gr.-- .223 is dead on and following the trajectory it is about 6" high @ 100 yards and then starts to drop and level out again @ 200 yards. I believe a 50 yard zero will give you an approximate 300 yard shot.

Maybe I am asking this wrong. I have the Ballistic program in my Droid. I also have the charts for bullet drop and know what the approx. drop is at 500 yards for the ammo I use. I know how to calculate the drop. My scope elevation and windage turrets can be set to zero and are using my 25/300 as my base point @ zero. If all I want to do is go from that zero to 400-500-600 yards how can I figure the # of clicks to raise my elevation without experimenting at the range.I have the drop lines and know which one corresponds to 400 and 500 yards but want to use the elevation to raise the bullet to compensate for drop instead of using the drop lines.

This may be a dumb question and it may have been covered, but I couldn't find it. If you have your rifle zeroed @ 25 yards for a 200 yd shot and it is right on, how do you calculate the number of clicks on the elevation knob to get to 500 yards. My elevation is 1/2"per click @ 100yards. Or is it better to just use the hash marks on the reticle for elevation? I am good to 300 yards using the zero, but beyond that I have to use the elevation marks on the reticle, it is not a true BDR, but has a 600 yard extra crosshair that is very close. I know which hash mark works for 500 yards, but would like to be able to use the elevation turret to correct when I know I have a definite distance beyond 300 yds. I have a Counter Sniper Crusader 1x12 with the TDRM reticle. This scopes works well for me. http://www.countersniperoptics.com/cgistore/store.cgi?page=/new/about.html&setup=

Welcome to the Houston area. A great range with some very good USPSA, IDPA, and 3-gun matches is the Impact Zone west of Houston in Brookshire. There is a 3-gun match this Saturday. Come on out and shoot. http://www.theimpactzonerange.com/

Actually that was my next question, why can’t you use it for slugs. In several matches that I have been in you cannot change chokes during the match. And all matches have one or more slug stages. Sean recommended one for my SX3 and it works very well. I have shot it with very good results. I did try it with slugs and it seemed to fight the rifling on the slug. They were all over the place. Now if we can't change chokes during a match I don't use the diffusion choke when there are slugs on a stage.

Thanks for the thought. After I initially did a cursory check on the sight and thought I had cleaned it, it turns out there was some crud under the screw head where the raised friction bumps contact between the screw and the base. They were almost smooth with this build up. I think it was keeping me from adjusting it correctly and vibrating the adj. screw and allowing the sight to move. I scraped the crud out and screwed the sight down and tested it today at the range and all is well. Cover the A zone and it hits dead center.

I dissasembled the sight and cleaned it. It didn't look like there were any problems with it. It moves freely up and down.

I know this is going to sound strange. I have a 2 year old Limited Pro 9mm. It is stock except for a factory fiber optic sight. I have about 5K rounds thru it. Love the gun, after sorting out some mag problems with Henning's help, it runs with no problems and has always been very accurate. Lately I have noticed that it is shooting about 4" high. I have always covered the center of the target with the front sight and that is where it hits, now I have to aim at the bottom of the center ring to get it to hit the center or top of the ring. I checked it on a plate rack yesterday and in order to hit the center of the plate, I have to aim at the bottom hinge area. I tried adjusting the rear sight and it doesn't seem to change the point of impact. I have not changed my grip and it shoots perfect from left to right. Any suggestions as to why the POI would move on elevation? Barrel rifling looks good, I keep it clean.

This rifle is 1/8 twist. Seems to like a little lighter bullet.

I think the right choke has a lot to do with what loads you shoot, but at our local 3-gun I had some problems for the first time with the Texas Star. I think it was a combination of the wrong choke and a couple of sticky springs on the star. I normally shoot my SX3 with a 26" barrel and IM choke with Win Super X heavy target loads with 7 1/2 shot and 1 1/8 loads and have had no problems, but experimented with my Skeet choke. Not a good idea. Left 2 stars. Back to my normal choke.I also picked up a couple of boxes of #6 heavy pheasant loads, just in case.

I took it to Best of the West range yesterday to sight it in at 250 and 500 yards. Their range goes to 1000 yards. I have shot it to 200 with very good accuracy, but that is the limit of our range. At BOTW you shoot at Larue reactive targets, so no paper, makes for easy hit ID. I have a 1x12 Counter Sniper optic mounted on it. This is a great scope. You have to qualify with a range officer to use this portion of the range. Only have to do it once. He helped call the shots and walk them in. 3 shots on a Larue at 250 and then 3 shots at 500 to qualify. I was using a standard 55gr Federal fmj shell. There was about a 10mph quartering wind from behind and right to left. It took a couple of extra shots to figure the windage on both the 250 and 500, but absolutely no problem. The gun is very accurate. After qualifying I did some experiments with some other ammo. I don't reload. I tried some PMC 55gr fmj and they were even better and more consistent than the Federal's. I also have some 75gr Wolf Gold match ammo. It did not like these, they were very inconsistent. I tried a couple of shots @ 750 at some hanging metal targets with the 55gr PMC rounds and got them within a foot or so of the targets, but the wind was moving them around a lot. I think on a calm day I could hit them. Next ammo will be some Black Hills 69gr. Best of the West is a great range snd well run. Any other suggestions on a good match grade ammo for longer distance?

I called the Winchester factory CS parts and they went thru their current stock to find me that barrel. It was the only 26" in stock. I would check with them, I think they can even check Browning stock. Also check with FN.

I found that I really liked the heavier barrel and the way the gun balances. I shoot a DPMS with a DD 16" M4 type barrel with a Miculek comp on it and it is a little heavier on the barrel end but feels good.