Chillywig

I did clean everything including the gas piston assembly first and the problem persisted. Once I swapped the extractor spring the problems went away.

I called Sig about the extractor spring and was advised it should be replaced every 5 to 10 thousand rounds. I assume since I have been basically shooting steel cased ammo exclusively it takes a bit more force for the case to roll out off the bolt face and puts more tension on the extractor spring. At four dollars each I can swap them out every few thousands rounds.

Here is the extractor from my carbine verse pistol Gen 2 MPX Pistol has about 1000 round count Carbine has about 3000 round count

Gen 2 I have fed it other ammo but was feeding it wolf exclusively at the time

I have the carbine with ~3000 rounds thru it. Has ran without any issues since switching to wolf steel cased 115gr fmj factory ammo. (My 147 GR reloads were a little weak and would not lock the bolt back on an empty mag) Past two days I have ran into these failures to eject - all exactly the same. The case is not clearing the ejection port and I end up with the fired case sticking out the chamber. The bolt is going back far enough to grab a new round so I end up with the bolt half out of battery holding a live round and the fired case sideways preventing the bolt from closing. After experiencing this a few time yesterday I cleaned the whole gun gas piston ect. I think this was the first time the extractor had been out of the bolt and it was nasty. Carbon built up on the extractor face and inside the bolt. After thoroughly cleaning everything I assumed it was the filth causing the problem and took it out to make sure today. Again had the exact same failure to eject described above. Anyone else been down this road? Thanks

Practice is key. Any will work once your used to it. I tried the RTS2 vs DPP and even though the glass is wider on the DPP the dot seems to stay in the RTS2 better because it is taller in the center. My back up gun has a 90 c-more and I like the glass and dot size but the foot print and weight of the RTS2 seems to be an advantage as well

SSI for 120$ WOW Does SVI even cost that much?

Just my two cents Since your looking at CK you'll need mags. Go MBX and they work perfect in either caliber 38 is more expensive in the brass acquisition but easier choices to load without spilling powder I went 9 and have no regrets - I use Silhouette to make major and don't have the case so full it spills everywhere loading. My CK has ran everything I have fed it. Major loads, factory 115 gr loads, even wolf steel cased ammo. Shooting my 147 grain PCC loads feels like cheating - guess it would be as they are no where near major. You'll be happy with either caliber and likely have no regrets either

OK here's something interesting. Just so you know I am closing the slide very slowly on an empty chamber and about a 1/16" to 1/32" from closing it can stop out of battery. It does not do it every time but it is repeatable 30 to 40% of the time. Since getting this gun new I haven't done much to it. Pinned the grip safety and put in a toolless takedown guide rod - Ah Ha! So I put in the CK guide rod still using the only recoil spring that's been in the gun and I can no long longer make the gun stay out of battery closing the slide very slowly. Upon further inspection of the toolless takedown rod I can not see anywhere it is dragging but it made a difference. Anyone else have issues with fit on the tooless takedown rod?

Running a CK thunder open gun in 9 major. Actually not sure of the recoil spring weight - whatever it came with. Past few matches I have had a round in the chamber, pulled the trigger but the gun was far enough out of battery it did not drop the hammer. I had assumed it was my reloads causing the problems as I chamber checked using the hundo. Last match I had the gun go click with a round in the chamber. I have been suspect of the overly tight KKM barrels/my reloads causing the failures to fire so this match I plunked all the rounds in the barrel then dropped them into the hundo for additional inspection. Unfortunately I was unable to recover the round for further inspection. Right now if I slowly close the slide I can make it stay out of battery enough to not allow the hammer to fall when pulling the trigger. I have never had to replace the recoil spring in any of my STI's but maybe the slide frame fit was much looser and never noticed issues and I am wondering if that has been causing my problems. I have been using mobile 1 30 weight for lube and kept the gun fairly clean. I have had this gun for a year and about 4500 round thru it. Probably a similar number in dry fire. So when or what should prompt me to change the recoil spring or should I be looking at another issue causing these issues?

Last trip to the range I had an issue where my groups were all over the place. I was verifying zero for a 9mm major load I had been using successfully but just changed from a dillon die to lee U die. Dot felt tight and wasn't sure what was wrong. Upon returning home I noticed the 3 screws holding the mount were all loose but the 2 in the thumb rest stayed tight - so the mount appeared to be tight but if I really pushed it - it moved. All screws were blue loctited and torqued using a fat wrench about 1500 rounds ago. Just wondering if rocksett might be a better choice than the blue loctite? What about on the comp set screws?

Even thought there is only a few pieces in the pic I had a couple hundred in that batch of brass I cleaned. Thought about trying wet tumbling. But don't own one yet. Had hoped someone else had been down this road before.

Cleaning mixed once fired by me factory loaded brass in corn cob and noticed some media stuck on the inside of the cases. Upon further inspection of the brass it was all the fiocchi brass with head stamp GFL. I found some cases that had not been cleaned yet and it looks like black sticky kind of tar just below where the bullet would have sat. Then the media stuck there in the cleaning process. Anyone else seen this? Ideas to eliminate the issue?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gf4IGyPTHLo

Well you guys pointed me in the right direction. I pulled the slide off the frame and the mags worked fine. Slide back on frame and locked back they stuck again. Turns out the mag follower is causing the issue. In the pic you can see how much wider the front of the follower is than my older mags. What's going on is the follower is hitting the slide lock but where the follower is so thin it ends up above the slide lock when the mag is fully inserted.

Few months back I bought a new CK 9mm open gun and at the time ordered 3 MBX mags. One in 170 155 and 140 and everything has worked flawlessly. Just ordered two more 170's and another 155. Neither of the 170's want to drop free from the CK gun when hitting the mag release and have to be pulled out or hit the mag release several times. Now I have tried them in other guns and had mixed results. Trubor with dawson drilled tapped button these two170 mags are sticky but with a little shake drop out. In an Edge with a STI drilled tapped mag release they all drop free as expected. Anyone else seen this?

Loading 9mm range brass that I have cleaned with corn cob media. I am getting about 1 or 2 jams per hundred where a 9mm case gets stuck in the green case feed adapter. A case with a single piece of cleaning media between the case and adapter gets lodged and I have to pull the tube and case feed adapter to push the stuck case out. I called Dillon and they sent me a new green case feed adapter and green bushing. Eyeballing it the new part seemed to have a larger ID so I figured that was the issue. Well the new one is having the same problem. I have been thinking about just drilling the green case feed adapter out a bit so a piece of cleaning media doesn't stop the whole operation. Anyone else experienced this problem? Thanks Andrew

I couldn't find the original pic I took but I have a pic in this thread. Scroll down a few posts http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=233513

WOW Were you running FA? What gun is that? Any damage to the gun or the shooter?

I'm at V3 - however no problems thus far....

That looks sweeeeet! And light! MCG?

I'm using 3N37 with a 115 and it seems to be inverse sensitive. About 1 PF for every 10 degrees based on a few chrono sessions in different temperatures. Wondering if anyone else has seen this, or maybe it's my chrono that's temp sensitive. Silhouette does the same - colder temps = hotter velocities. Last weekend our last stage was chrono and it was getting close to 90. My load development was done in the 50's and I was sweating about my warm bullets. I'll agree about 10 degrees changes the load around 1 PF

When you guys got the sights back from C-more was there a description of the work done? I sent one in about 6 weeks ago and here is the description of what they did to mine. v3-2C-BTFP-RS-P