Chillywig

Well I finally made it back to the range despise the snow trying to keep me inside. All I ended up change was the crimp on the bullet and that seemed to do the trick. I had pulled one of the old bullets from the way I had the die set and it left a deep crimp ring in the bullet. I've used this setting for several years now with my STI and never had any problems. As far a accuracy it may be the shooter. Usually I'll have a good group going and throw one or two out of 8 wide. I measured some of the zero 125 fmj's and they are .3565 on my calipers.

I'm wondering what others are using for revolver rigs. I bought the cup challenge but even after removing the tensioning screws and cutting the top of the holster off it still is difficult to draw from. I then decided to modify a cr speed holster meant to hold an STI I wasn't using to hold a revolver. Both work but I don't really like either and probably need to have my dremil rights removed. I would like to have a rig that will accept either the 627 or 625 with different barrel lengths without any or minimal reconfiguration. I was leaning toward a speedsec but can't find one in stock anywhere.

I'm really looking forward to the 2010 shooting season which is fast upon us. I'm hoping to get the open gun ready for ICORE although Tim thinks I also need and new snubbie gun to shoot bug. Hope to see you at some shoots. With the range expansions we finished last year I think there will be room for all your and DANAMITE's spectators.

I've noticed the same thing using a 45 200gr RNFP. I use a Dillon case gauge to check go or no go. I've found that when reloading with lead that a little bullet lube on the bullet, at the crimp, or on the brass can keep the round from chambering properly. Using a towel and some elbow grease will remove the excess lube and the round will chamber.

That may be something else I need to try. I'm using The Dillon pistol dies and out of the hundred I loaded 18 rounds failed to drop into the case check gauge. I'm using the Smith moons that came with the gun and if a round fails the case check the moon has to be forced into the gun.

Mr Ellison you may have been right about the best tool for working on a gun is a checkbook. After doing the trigger bobbing the hammer and adjusting the main spring the action is better than the 625 but I know it isn't as good as if I had someone who knows what they are doing work on it. I still like to learn the hard way and probably wont quit till I break something. I just thought of something, I do put a heavy crimp on the super loads. Maybe that is what makes the brass swell so much. I'll probably polish the chambers for good measure, adjust the crimp and reduce the powder charge by .1gr. This afternoon I worked the PCGC booth at the WV hunt and fish show with your old buddy DANAMITE. He just bought a STI Edge and is going to get a revolver also. This year PCGC is going to have an ICORE division thanks to Tim. We are going to have matches on Ashland's off months, so we will have an ICORE match monthly between the two clubs.

The grouping has always been all over the place with this gun It shoots a group at ten yards that was one big hole and then I had a group at the same distance with the same ammo that was a couple inches. I keep going back to the 625 I have and it is a great reliable repeatable gun. Compared to my old 625 this 627 sometimes feels like if my 625 is a true PC gun then this 627 must be made by tarus. Its like they are not even close to the same type of workmanship.

I would guess that I've only put about 200 rounds through the gun and did buy it new. The first time I shot it I used my major PF loads I use for USPSA, 125 zero hp behing 10gr of hs-7 and a fed sp primer. I did notice that the nickle plated ammo came out a little easier than the brass but just barely. With major PF ammo I nearly thought the moons were going to be stuck forever.

I've been shooting a 625 performance center gun and absolutely love it. The guys that shoot open looked like they were having too much fun and I decided to give it a try. I picked up this 627-4 new late last year. I've only shot it a few times and loaded up a hundred rounds this morning looking for a good ICORE round. I used a zero 125fmj 4.9gr universal clays and a fed sp primer. Power factor 130. It was a little hotter than I am looking for but the brass would not eject without wacking the ejection rod against the shooting table. Just wondering if anyone else has gone through this? I'm thinking about a lower PF but also wondering if one type of brass ejects easier or if honing or polishing the chambers is the route I need to go???