dagger10k

You could always just use the standard slide release! That's what I use on my Glock 20 limited gun...

So what if you put the sleeve on a gen3? Would that be ok? Not that I'd want to, just curious.

I think the KKM barrel would also take care of it. I have a KKM 10mm -> 40s&w conversion barrel, and it does not bulge brass at all, where as my standard 20 barrel certainly does.

Should be a DQ under 10.5.13.

Are Montana Gold not jacketed? If you are using titegroup, FMJs can get a little smokey, but it's not too bad. I think any of the above would work fine. Zeros are nice too.

My limited gun is a Glock 20 with a 40 S&W conversion barrel. Chuck a Carver Custom magwell on there, and you should be ready to rock in limited. The CR Speed versa pouches also work pretty well with no insert to hold the large frame mags. If you like light recoil and striker springs, it will run just about any loads. If you don't, like me, you will need heavier loads, which is ok, because it is a very soft recoiling gun.

What would you be looking for it to do? It will make the new barrel more shiny, and probably less rust resistant. Not sure what else it would do?

Thanks phil! I have always appreciated your advice and insight. I may have to get one of those airsoft setups from you sometime. Looks like they could be pretty helpful.

Production time! Here are some pictures of my brand new 34 with it's big brother. New production gun.

I have to be honest; I have never owned, nor read a load manual. I feel like I've done alright, loading wise, without one.

Groups groups groups. Shoot some groups, and pay attention to what is happening when you pull the trigger. Make sure you are not blinking. (Ask somebody to watch you if you need to) Where are your shots hitting? Low left? Just all over the place? My guess is that you are gripping the 21 in a way that does not help you manipulate the trigger cleanly. Try pointing the gun at a white wall, and pulling the trigger smoothly through with no wobble of the sights. If you can do that in dry fire, try some live fire, slow at first. Once you can make good hits slow fire, speed it up, and see where, and why it falls apart. I don't think there's any quick answer to this one. You are going to have to learn the new gun, and there's no substitute for practice. I do the white wall drill just about every day with my Glock 20, and I think it's helped a lot.

Wow, I have never heard of this one. Does anyone engage their safety while moving? I know I have done it once or twice without thinking, but I certainly don't make a habit of it.

Fair enough. I've done a 25 cent trigger job on my Limited gun. Never felt it made much of a difference, and I haven't bothered doing anything with my newer parts, but that's probably just because I'm not good at it. I vote the sights, grip tape, and 4.5# connector, but would submit that a 'light' .25 cent trigger job is a safe endeavor and has made a lot of improvement on my G34. I too was an unbeliever. I guess the point is it's a light polish, not a removal of substantial amounts of material.

If I were you, I'd get a set of nice sights, like the Sevigny sights, the standard glock 4.5lb connector, maybe some grip tape, and leave it at that. I've never felt a Glock trigger job that I thought was better than stock with the 4.5 connector. In any case, once you get used to the trigger, you can run a stock trigger just as well as a super fancy one. Also, doing a trigger job opens up the possibility for malfunctions with the trigger system, something that will pretty much never happens with the stock parts.

Well, I finished the Golden Bullet, with lackluster results. I was 6th overall, second A in limited. I shot 89% or something of the match winner, Dale Martin. I was plagued by trigger control issues, and decided that I would go back to the way I had it a while ago. I'm going back to the stock striker spring, stock recoil spring, and standard 4.5lb connector. I've decided that the feel of the trigger is more important to me than the quickness of the slide cycle. I just could not get used to the super light reset with the light striker spring, at least not in time for this match, and I've decided that there is no reason that I have to get used to it. If I load my ammo hot enough (hotter than the 165.3 I made at the Golden Bullet ) the gun should cycle fine. I'm also getting a Glock 34, to shoot some production, since I seem to shoot my buddy's 34 so well (44.47 in amateur competition at the GSSF match, which I believe is a new record!). I am also looking into getting a SVI for a change of pace in limited. Exciting times!

I'll throw in another vote for the stock trigger. I shot a 44.47 second GSSF match with my buddy's 34 that has no trigger work done to it whatsoever. I don't even know if the lower has ever been taken apart. I've felt a few fancy glock triggers, and I'm not a fan. I've also seen several reliability problems with various kinds of trigger jobs.

I'm running a KKM 10MM -> 40S&W conversion barrel in my Glock 20. It works just fine if I resize my cases all the way down, using the Lee sizing die. If I use the Dillon instead, it doesn't hit the cases quite low enough, and this happens: https://www.youtube.com/user/zoenghangzi#p/u/4/0n5GNJT_Oog

Something I have done in the past is to get a program like Audacity, and record while playing the part of the video you are interested in. You will see the recording visually, and can usually find where the shots are, assuming the video is relatively noise free. The beep is often really hard to find if you are trying to determine your draw. You can then select the area between the 2 shot breaks to measure the splits.

Is Bob Vogel canting his gun to the right in almost all of his freestyle shooting in the video, or is it just me?

A good thing to do if you want to improve your stance, and get a little more aggressive, is to move your feet a little father apart. Your feet look very close together, which is going to make it difficult accelerate quickly, and harder to index authoritatively, since you drive the gun in transitions mostly with your legs. Have a look at the stance of any top level shooter shooting a field course, and you are likely to see a tiny bit less forward bend at the waist, a wider, lower base, and a little more arm bend. Being a little more relaxed with your stance will go a long way. Here's a nice aggressive, but relaxed stance from Jessie Abbate:

So much for those of us with big hands... These are the only grips I've felt that come close to fitting my hands. Yes but the Champion is a comped single action gun. It has to be a factory option on a production legal gun.

So, if I understand the quick change system correctly, you could get something like this: http://www.midwayusa...ctnumber=180763, and install it with no tools? Or would it still require fitting/drilling? ETA: I'm guessing no, because I don't see how this could be held in with no pin. Does anyone know where I could get a FS like this that would work with the quick change system?

Make master in any division, and be competitive in that class.

I'm guessing that there won't be a lot of guns that are good for both production division and bullseye. For a production gun, it's hard to beat the Glock 34. I don't even own one, but every time I shoot my friend's it's like it just shoots itself.