TMC

I've shot quite a few of my Major 9 rounds through my SV 9mm Limited gun, it hits harder than Major 40 but its no that bad in your hand and the muzzle flip is about the same as Major 40. It is no more hard on the gun than when its shot through a comped gun assuming both have fully supported chambers.

I take the "Make Ready" location" to mean at the Start position in the written stage description so you don't have guys running through the whole COF taking sight pictures from ever shooting position.

At the 2012 Nationals I uses Iron's for the long stuff and a C-More mount at a 45 on the irght side (like an Open rifle) for the close stuff. It worked well for me but got lots of strange looks from the RO's.

From the current rule book off the website 8.7.1 A competitor is permitted to take a sight picture prior to the start signal. Such sight picture is only permitted from the Make Ready location. Since the competitor is allowed to "Make Ready" between stings, which is before the start signal, it appears additional sight pictures are allowed.

For a few dollar more you can upgrade to the aluminum model, I think it's $50 but don't quote me. The alum. model is a click switch and they have thumb screws for the battery compartment so you don't need an allen wrench.

Yes, "relatively easy" Here's the process I took. Measure the inside dia. of the front sight base, measure the end of barrel where it will mount. Mine was 2 different sizes. Divide the differece in half and buy some shim stock, I got brass at the hardware store. I milled off the "lugs" on each side of the bayo lug, drilled a hole through it and split it all the way through the front ring of the base with a hacksaw. The rear ring was already tapped on the bottom between the ears with the sling ring was attached, I don't now why but I guess I lucked out othewide I would have drilled and tapped it. I worked the front sight in place with the shim stock between it and the barrel, and snugged it down with a cap screw and nylock. Went to the range and shot at 50 to make sure it was clocked right or close enough so I could get a good zero with the windage at the rear. When I had that done I dimpled the barrel at the hole in the rear ring and tightened a screw into so it wouldn't twist. All I had at the time was a cap screw and I was going to put a nice small set screw in it but never got around to doing it SIMPLE

Watch the Borne Identity, in the Embassy scene when the gaurds are running up the staris, some are carrying Dissapators with no rear sights.

Its a parts rifle I built for this years Nationals from stuff I've had laying around for some time Sun Devil Billet upper and lower set - SMMG prize table from 2008 Old style JP Handguard , pre V-Tac JP trigger Mil-Spec bolt lightenend by me JP Gas block Standard A2 front sight base with set screw and I convered the bayo-lug so its now a clamp. Its bushed with shim stock. Stock front sight replaced with Sightlink .050 FO front Rear sight is an old carry handle cut back w/NM aperature Barrel is a Model-1 HBar that was turned down to 5/8" under the handguard Surefire Comp Best I can do with my eyes 200 yard, 53grn VMax's, 2-1/2" group

If you plan on using real iron sights (not a dot or Priz) then you want a longer barrel, 20" at a min. and mount the front sight just behind the comp. Radius is your friend with irons.

Very cool, it would be nice to see it on TV. Who's the shooter?

I'm just jealous you can have a place to shoot past 200 yards!

P-40 Warhawk I thought it was just my impression of it, then I scrolled down the page

I've been told by a couple of the Benelli Team guys that you DO need heat to get it appart, but applying that heat may weaken the recoil spring. They suggest replacing the spring and using blue loctite when putting it back together.

Does it change? I would think the maintenance cost on all the real estate on his head must be HUGE!

Be positive, that means there are 3 less to do!

I had heard that all 1911's, regardless of caliber, cycle in about the same amount of time (about 4 hundredths of a second). The only difference is how the shooter perceives the different impulses between the calibers.

Hang in there, Rachael says there's Milk Duds in it for you when you're done

I only got 1 upper from Model 1 sales way back when and it had head space issues. I would just say no to this company. pat Don't tell my Limited rifle, 5th at Nationals and 8% behind Chris

When I shot open I used a universal rib mount like the one below and mounted a Holo-sight on the barrel. I didn't like feeling jammed up behind a receiver mounted scope with the shotgun. With a C-More you could just drill and tap the rib and mount it directly. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1770/Product/UNIVERSAL-CANTILEVER-RIB-MOUNT

Model 1 Sales - $185

Ding Ding Ding, we have a winner!

An adjustable gas system is nice so you can taylor it to your load and reduce some of the recoil especially if you have a lightened bolt. That said there are lots of top guys running a fixed system and mil-spec weight bolt. The difference in a match and on the clock is not that noticable. Having a 100% reliable gun is much better than and soft/flat shooting 95% gun. Both are good guns so you can't go wrong, I would recommned that which ever you buy, don't change it.

I shot 20,000 over the last couple years for both Major 40 and Minor 9 though S_I's, Glocks and an M&P. They are decently accurate though not as quite acurate as jacketed. Just ordered another 10,000 9's The have a good price break when you (or a group) order 25,000 or more

I've shot lots of Major rounds through my SV 9mm Limited gun. Its harsh but safe. Like others have said, its the chamber

If its factory ammo you should be able to get BC and velocities from the manufacture. If you're reloading with a chrono you not getting everything you can out of reloading. One of the paramiters for Ballsitic calculators is the sights height above the bore. The sights hieght above the bore changes the interset point between line of sight and bullet path.