jmurch

+1 on Geiselle Jeff

A fun thing to do is watch the trail of the bullet when it's fired. This is usually done at 200 or 300 yards similar to the way you use a spotting scope to watch the mirage in long range shooting. The match grade bullets will be smooth and straight the cheaper bullets will spiral. It's really easy to see why there is a difference in accuracy. Jeff

I'd get a new external housing for whatever size/interface type the drive is and try that before anything else. The drive itself may not be bad. Jeff

You can often just change .png to .jpg and the server won't know the difference since the are both sent to you browser as type/image anyway. You can try the same trick with .swf by changing it to .flv although I have never tried that one. Jeff

Get a different cup. Is that the correct one or is it just something you could find? Jeff

I clean sizing dies often. I use a bushing die and the bushing needs to float free in the die so I like to clean out the built up lube every 500 rounds or so. Use brake cleaner. Jeff

Stinsonbeach, I think it depends on what your loading for. For pistol -I- would use the electronic dispenser. Rifle I use the manual (Redding BR3) dispenser.

+1 on the Dillon beam. I set the Redding BR3 powder measure using that and then lock it down after 30 or so consistant loads. I load .223 with Varget and the Redding BR3 is amazingly accurate. I re-weigh after every box of 50 I do and I can load indefinaley once it's set I can count on at most .1 variance. With a stick powder that's pretty good. I also read a great article that will likely get some disagreement but basically it explained how a beam scale was more accurate than a digital when it comes to repeatablity. In short if the digital has a tolerence of +/- .1 it can actually be as much as +/- .3 each throw. I don't think that this will make any difference (especially for me) for pistol loads but it may for the really good shooters. You can search for the article on http://www.usrifleteams.com/ Here are some others I've found: http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2010/10/shot-order-and-calibration-when-using-electronic-scales/ http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2007/07/weight-drift-on-digital-scales-yes-its-real/ Jeff

How big a difference in OAL? I was having the same problem with the same die with Sierra HPBT. I talked to the Sierra ballistician and he told me that within each box there is a tolerence and then box to box there is a tolerence. If you mixed bullets from two lots they could be a big enough differece to cause concern but remember that the die presses the bullets off the ogive not the tip. Jeff

AWLAZS, Is there a 3 inch deep pile of brass on the ground when the snow thaws? Jeff

Rio Salado 8 min.

I thought winter was when you supposed to shoot? Summer is for re-loading...............

Does he just hand out the guns or actually work on them? (Edit) -> There's the answer: 'Our armorers are SWAT guys ' I have 2 RR ARs one I have worn out 3 barrels on shooting across the course competiton and it has NEVER seen a single round of factory ammo. The only time I have ever popped a primer is when I thought I could load my Lake City cases a 9th time. Jeff

+1 on Varget with a similar setup as jj has. I use a Redding BR powder measure on a 550 with +- .1 gn. Jeff

I agree with Grumpy One no way. If a bullet is traveling at 1000+ fps and hits the ice the stopping force of the ice would have to apply alot of friction to the nose of the bullet. The friction applied to the nose of the bullet would surely also apply to stopping the spinning. I can't see how you can have it both ways. Jeff

1:9 twist will stabilize most any bullet that can be loaded to mag length. But $950 is way too high. I built my 3 gun rifle by getting a used low round count 20" 1:7 kreiger ($100) and cutting it to 18" on a RR flat top upper with a RR float tube, rifle hand guards, RR lower with an adjustable stock. Total was well under $700. Add whatever sights you like and you're good to go until you can outshoot the rifle. Jeff

FLSlim, I agree with the relaxing part. I will continue to reload rifle for 3 gun and Hi Power competition. The savings on that is tremendous especially since I'm already with others for group buys for Sierra bullets and Varget. I asked the initial question to try to determine if it was worth sacrificing some of my time reloading rifle to reload 9mm. Jeff

Mobile 1 5w for the bolt Mobile 1 sythetic grease for the rails. Jeff

For now I have decided to buy. I will be getting ammo made with the following: Frontier 124s CMJ Plated 3.5 Clays (or whatever gets them to 1025 or so FPS) Winchester primers Mixed brass I'm getting a hundred to test and then I'll get them $180/k. Nothing to reload and no brass to pickup and save. I may be able to save a bit reloading but for now this is probably so similar to what I'd load anyway I'll just buy. Jeff

I did do a search on this and know this info is here somewhere but I sure can't find it............. What do I need to do to 'clean up' my G17/4 mags to load more than 16 rounds. Or am I just imagining that I've read about this and 16 is all I'll get? TIA, Jeff

My daugther has: 'I carry a pistol because my rifle won't fit in my purse.' Jeff

If it was me I'd try option 2 first. Fast and cheap test to see if it fixes the problem. I doubt option 3 would do anything and I'm 50/50 on option 1. Jeff

I have been reloading rifle for competition for many years and I am debating on reloading pistol now that I am starting to shoot that. (I have reloaded a few hundred rounds of straight walled cases here and there so the mechanics I'm good with.) To get me started I bought 2k reloads for $200/k from a reliable reloading company here in AZ. That company will adjust the velocity if I want currently they are 124s at ~1100fps. Is it worth it starting out to reload 9mm if I can get usable re-loads for $200/k? I should probably mention that I have time to reload and enjoy doing it. I am just finishing up 5k of .223 (I'll probably be the only one at rifle/shotgun shooting HPBT 77s at 50'). If I do go with reloading pistol (comments here will help me decide) I am not opposed to a progressive press and have a good line on a used 550 or a used SQB. Any recommended beginner recipes for a G17? I don't really have any brass so I'd probably buy a couple thousand once fired WCC. TIA, Jeff

When I switched from a 226 to a G17 I got an hour of instruction to get going since I'd never owned a Glock before. The instructor told me almost first thing about low and left on Glocks. His recommendation was make sure you don't have too much finger in the trigger housing. I backed out my tigger finger so I was pressing the trigger with just the pad of my finger and that fixed the problem for me. Jeff

+1 best seating die. Mine has also remained consistant OAL with over 5,000 .223 rounds. Jeff