SRT Driver

Congrats Matt on a great shooting performance!

Got it. I know how that is. Maybe I'll catch you at one of the monthly matches.

I'll be there but....not until sat afternoon so I'll take 3 0's before I shoot a round!!!! Have to work sat morning. Rocket35 - I thought you were going?

A G34 I have broke the tip of the striker off once form dry firing ..during a dry firing session.

People called me a nut job for thinking a few years ago but here it is: Speed of sound at 65 degrees = 1122 fps 85 " " = 1143 fps Light bullets loose velocity faster than heavy bullets. A 115 gr XTP loses about 125 fps from the muzzle out to 50 yards. A 124gr XTP loses about 85 fps at the same distance. So..a 115 with a muzzle velocity of 1150 will experience "transonic buffering" or adverse yaw very early. At the time, I was shootnig NRA AP and was wrestling with shooting 115's or 124's. I went with 124's at 1050 fps for this reason. And EVERYONE said I had to shoot 115's to be competitive because of the decreased mover lead. Then someone told me Doug K shoots 115's at about 1150 or close. I thought a velocity of 1100 was a better bet. I scratched my head and shot 124's since 115's at 1100 was a little too close. Doug K keeps winning so maybe it doesn't matter and I'm a nut job. Hope this helps.

Jay, I am in for the WIIT unless something big happens at work. Apparently, no one is shooting a wheelgun so I might change. Maybe Production or skinny gun. Not sure. Or stay with revo and have fun. I've got a .100 FO front on my Prod gun. Nothing really helps indoors especially at PTPC. I've tried every different color of FO rod with limited results. While the skinny FO front is the schiznit outdoors, it really hasn't been that great inside. Now I'm back to a black undercut patridge post. It really stands out with backlighting. Glare is zero, too. That might be the ticket. I'll throw it in the bag so you can check it out.

Jay, I haven't shot at PTPC for a while, I hope it has changed!! I'll see in a couple of weeks. It seems that the inconsistent lighting (bright spots, dark areas on the same range - especially ranges 1 and 3) seem to play tricks with my eyes. The FO sight is off and that might help. I never could see it inside anyway. And a little wider front sight might help too. The .100 I was running seemed too thin inside. Or it could be the mojo draining machine. If I locate it, we can smash it together.

Dawson sights are great. Order directly through them. I went with the .300 high front. It gives you a bit more adjustment if you change loads and need to come down a few clicks. With 125's and 1100 fps I had 1 or 2 clicks of down available with the .285

Thanks. The target I had in mind was similar to: AT1 This one is for 50 yards but the one I was looking for is used at 28 yards.

Does anyone know if a 1000 inch target exists for 5.56mm ammo? If so, how far above the POA is the POI for a 200 yards zero? I recall a target that was used for M-1 Garands ( I think it was an AT1 target) that was graduated for use at 1000 in (28 yards) which would allow a battle sight zero of 200 yards on a shorter range. I do not know if a similar target exists for 5.56.

You may be anticipating recoil, not finching, but attemting to return the sights physically and not letting the pistol do the work..your timing my be a little off. This combined with the shot being off to the left may be a combo of yanking the trigger and pushing the gun. Have someone else put a snap cap in the mag somewhere where you don't know where it is and fire some pairs. If the pistol dips when you pull the trigger..

Actually, a very good question. Anybody have a link to a how to? There are, if memory serves. I reload the same way Tom Mainus does (I'm a south paw too)..I just have to practice and break the "bottom feeder" tendency. and get the sexy glove!!!

After shooting primarily Production for several years (and getting fed up with rule changes/discussions/rulings), and recently selling my Open gun, I bought a 625 to get back to where I started and to have fun again. I started shooting USPSA with a S&W M14 with full wad cutters in '00. So..my local club had a charity match for a member who had had some major health problems within the past year. I thought to myself "shoot the 625." Cool..I had worked up a load that made major and would get the holster that morning. "Let's have some fun" is what I told myself even though practice with it was nil, dryfire is difficult without a holster, and after working 13 hrs the night before. I had forgotten so much. Reloads were hideous, stage planning is from another planet, prepping the trigger (..how does that work?) but the hits were decent. And it kind of came together towards the end. Next time don't pull the clip holder out with the moonclip!!! Results. Won 2 stages but I got my a** handed to me by 11% (with all due respect to the winner who is a great Cowboy shooter and does well with his 625). And FUN it was. It was for a good cause. The shooting was a bonus. I have a reborn respect for Revo shooters again. Now if I can just figure out how to reload this thing....

I don't count rounds other than in the walkthrough. I don't like to go to slide lock unless I can cut out a reload and the array is at or toward the end. I plan positions and reloads. If there is a particularly odd shot/array, I'll make note of it and pay more attention to it. Similar to, "after the 2nd reload, there is a wide target etc to pick up in this sequence..T-1, T-2, PP1, PP2, take two steps right and wide T-3..reload"

Rich has one with trigger work, the EGW pin and slide lightening. I checked it out on Saturday. Better buy it fast before my wife gives me my allowance!!!

Spook, I am left handed and had the an issue with the shots printing to the right. Like you, I am an accurate shot with a revo. I played with my grip tension and trigger finger placement. Fwiw, I had a Non Glock shooting, right handed friend shoot the same gun and his shots printed to the left. The problem was a technique issue. I found that I had too much grip tension in my strong hand. Loosening the stong hand slightly cured the problem. Since you are a revo shooter, you also might be pulling the trigger a bit hard. Try tapping the trigger (feeling the pre travel) until the shot breaks and then see where it prints. Hope this helps.

Here's a question. Does anyone think the the boys would have made it if Cliff wasn't the original?

To the AR gurus: Is it possible for an AR to fire out of battery?

The wolf is defensive. His stance and lack on offensive posture tells me he is waiting to see what will happen and will react. He is sizing up his opponent. The human is offensive. He has a plan and is ready to execute. He has confidence in his ability and weapon but is not taking his opponent for granted. The victory goes to the side which can adapt their skills to the situation most effectively. <edit> This relates directly to many situations..not just shooting. If you strictly react, you are behind the curve. If you anticipate and get inside of your opponent's decision making process, you have more time to execute and impose your will on the situation.

X2 on Kimber Kid's comment. I started shooting Bianchi with a Clark PPC M10 with an Aristocrat Scope Base and a channel milled into it for wings. It held up but K Frames won't last as long as an L frame. Then I shot autos for a few years. Then built an L Frame in 38 Super for Bianchi which cured the ammo issue. I like shooting Revos better.

Bladetech DOH Is fast as any race holster and cheap!!

I have used MPro7 for years. I personally think the gel is the best bore cleaner out there. You have to let it work, however. If you put a wet patch through the bore, let it sit for a while, run a brush through twice and let it sit for about 15 min, it works great. It usually takes only one or two tries to get the dirtiest bore clean. Qtips and the regular Mpro liquid works on everything else. It does not smell, is non toxic, which is a plus.

230 gr Precision w/ 4.6gr. VV N320 1.25" OAL 174 Pf out of a S&W 625

Measure the length of the old brass compared to the new brass. Super headspaces on the case neck and if the oal changes too much, it can cause some accuracy loss. A Case Pro helps. When I shot Bianchi, I did A LOT of testing with brass etc but I never saw that much difference. The usual difference between brass was no more than .75" - 1" at 50 yards (from 1.25" to 2" or 2.25") which is a decrease but the brass was fine for practice. Another issue may be that we want or expect the newer to shoot better, so we might subconsciously shoot a little better. The only real way to take "us" out of the equation is to use a Ramson Rest.

Alamoshooter is right. Hornady 68's and Sierra 69's were originally designed for 300 yards. It's kind of like expecting 80's to shoot as well as 52's at 100. 52's will do better at 100 but try shooting 52's at 600!!! I shot 68's on the 200 yard line and 300 (68's have a better BC than 69's). 75's in a lot of wind at 300. You may be pushing the 68's a little fast. Mine worked well at 2700 with 24.5 of 748. reloader 15 work well too. Haven't tried VV in rifle but everyone says it's the s***. Thanks!! Now I might have to blow the dust off the AR.