SRT Driver

Champions Choice used to carry a small carbide lamp. It's about the size of a film cannister.

Lumpy, I shot 4.2 of old Red Dot with a Berry 124 gr FP at 1.09OAL a few years ago. Chronoed 1097 av in a stock G34 bbl. And my notes says it was accurate. Good Luck!

+1 on this. If the supplier bought materials at the high they probably will leave their prices at the same level until stock is gone or sales drop off. If nobody buys from them, they will have to drop prices to move inventory. Time is the answer.

I am also a south paw and what you stated is true for me also. Everyone's zero is different and looks through the sights a little different which is why you should zero your own gun. If you are cross dominant, all bets are off. As long as your freestyle POI matches your bench POI everything with your freestyle platform should be OK. Keep in mind that when shooting weak hand you are bringing the gun to your strong side eye which is putting a different grip tension and your arm is not where it naturally would be if shooting free style. If you shoot consistently a few inches to the left, the quick fix is to Aim a few inches to the right. The issue is probebly trigger pull through..too much or too little trigger finger on the trigger and not "feeling" the trigger..maybe "yanking" the trigger instead of a smooth pull. Since we don't normally shoot with our weak hands A friend of mine and I both are equal in shooting abilty (classification, scores etc) but he is right handed. We were practicing for the Bianchi Cup a few years ago. We were working with mover bases and zeroing from the prone position which took grip tension mostly out of the equation. When he shot my gun he was about .5" to the left and when I shot his gun, I was .5" to the right. I am left eye dominant..he is right eye dominant. Hope this helps.

It ought to be easy to spot the idiots when they try to sell a slightly used Perazzi at the local pawn shop.

+2 on the nomination

Ordered it in Amazon..delivered yesterday..listened to it today... Thumbs way up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 'Tallica's Back

Yeah, but I can't read half of the lyrics!!!

Move them to the correct position. If they do not keep them in the correct position.......

Myers-Briggs!! It's scary how accurate MBTI types are!!

They shoot just fine but the coating builds up around the forcing cone heavily.

Hmm, great learning!! Ben /Flex - Is there ever a time that you would blow off a disappearing drop turner?

No one has done the math? If you threw a mike on the first run and you had to take a step to get a better shot..would you take it? Given the prior run was, 8.08 hf (145 pts / 17.93 sec), for example. If you called your shot and could make it up in about 1.87 sec you would be even..more than 1.87 you are in the hole, not worth it. A mike is worth 10 pts and the 5 you lost = 15pts. So to be even you would have to run the stage in 19.8 (160 / 19.8) to equal the 8.08 hf. So he could have thrown a mike or the 15 Charlies that he shot. With that, he dropped 15 points in his first run 145/17.94. If he would have taken .058 more per shot to get the extra 15 points, he would need to get 160 pts in 19.8 by spending .058 more per shot to get the Alphas. You have to know your ability and how much the points are worth.

How do you determine the hit factor on a stage? Do you gauge it by having a GM shoot it since he will set the bar hit factor? Practice! I know that sounds cliche, but the way a GM shoots a stage probably is going to be different than how you might shoot it. He/she has ability that you may or may not have. And GM's know how long it takes them to do things. You have to look at a stage and think it takes me x number of seconds to move this distance, x seconds to reload, and x tenths between splits. Then you get a good estimated time for you as a starting point. The key is your estimated time..not a GM's. How you can best shoot the stage. For example, you have a 100 pt stage with about two steps of movement. Nothing hard and targets at 10 yards. It is most likley a 10 factor stage..you think you could probably do it clean in 10 seconds. A point is worth .1. Another stage is also 100 points with a 20 yards laterally between the first an last shooting positions, 5 doors and your gun locked in a safe. You know it is going to take you 3 sec to open the safe and 3 seconds to move the between the 5 doors and open the doors. That is 18 seconds without shooting a round. You shoot .2 splits usually and the targets are close so the transitions are about the same (4 seconds) but one target you have to shoot prone through a low port so add another second. Total of 23 seconds. Factors out to about 4.3 hf so a point is worth .2 and change. Don't get caught in the trap of copying anyone. For example, I shot a stage recently and did pretty well on it (won the stage). After I shot, everyone on my squad shot it exactly the same way I did but didn't do as well. One shooter asked why I went from the right box when I could have started at the left and not shot weak hand on the last shot around a corner. I explained that I'm left handed so my last shot was strong hand and I shoot a lot of strong/weak hand drills. Hope this helps.

Carmoney, I think the closest is/was Tom Carpenter, but I could be wrong.

You have to know how much the points are worth. On a 5 hf stage a point is worth .2. A 10 hf stage, a point is worth .1. The problem is knowing your skills and how fast YOU might shoot the stage.

124 Berry FP 4.1 gr. N320 1.07 OAL 125 Zero JHP 4.1 N320 1.12 OAL 124 MG CMJ 4.1 N320 1.14 OAL All of these chrono around 135 PF through a G34

I hate that some who really don't have a clue think that if you don't shoot 200 PF loads, competing is easy and they could win if their loads were that "light". After today's match, a shooter set up a chrono so I asked if I could put a few over it. My 124 gr loads averaged 1075 fps which nets a 133 PF. Another shooter's comment was "that's light, what a powder puff load..." with a serious look on his face. I don't know the guy and have never seen him before until today but he did shoot the match.

N320 until I run out of it. Then whatever that's available and works.

I voted yes. Having worked 2 Nationals and shot a fair number of matches in all divisions, I think that an active shooter (although not as active as many of us might want to be) can find holes in stage design more effectively than an RO who does not play the game from the other side of the timer from time to time. Playing from both sides of the timer can teach you more about the game than focusing on one side.

Does anyone know where to get a wrist band and what type of battery it takes? I've had this Luminox for 10 years and it's still very bright at night but it keeps showing the same time..all of the time and it falls off my wrist.

No issues. I've run both 3.5 and 5lb connectors in my G17 and G34. Personally, I like the feel of the 5lb connector better. It seems to reset sooner than the 3.5. No spring breakage either..after many K rounds through both.

I agree 52's are great bullets..at 100 yards or so. While it has not happened to me, I have heard of some 52's coming apart and disappearing in 7 twist bbls at 3300 + fps (I think it was the early J4 jacketed bullets). RTR is talking about 400 yards. So he will need a bullet that can shoot about 1.5 moa at 400 yards to get good A zone hits on a target at that distance which doesn't sound that hard..right. That is about a 6" group. A 5mph wind change could push a 52 out of the A zone at 400 yards. And maybe off of the target. The achillies heal of the 5.56 is the bullet. 68-69's were designed for 200. 75 -77's for 300. And 80+ for 600. A 9 twist will shoot a 75 OK but a 7 or 8 twist is better. The longer the bullet, more twist is needed. The longer the bullet the better the BC and a good BC means the wind pushes it less. Some highpower guy were experimenting with 90gr bullets and 6.5 twist PacNor bbls a while ago. While a 52 is a great bullet at 100 and might be OK on a windless day at 400, a longer bullet is better under most conditions. Except on the wallet. Hope this helps

55 gr at 3000 + fps in a 1/7 twist might be a bit to much spin. 52 - 55 are a 100 yard bullet.. not enough for 400 yards. Give 68-69's a try. 75's work well also. Good luck.

I bought a 625 this summer and noticed the thing was shooting WAY right. 10" - 12" at 25 yards. Didn't think it was a technique issue..shot revos alot before switching to "bottom feeders" for a few years. Had a few others shoot it and called S&W. During the shooting session, I noticed the BBL was screwed in too far (front sight clocked to the left). Told them that and they said it was a technique issue. I said NOOOO!!! and after a bit of discussion they email a label and fixed the "problem" by unscrewing the bbl so the sight is at 12 o'clock. It shoots dead nuts now. Maybe take it to a match and get some ideas from other shooters or have a 'smith look at it then call them. Be persistent and Good luck.