Tul9033

Should look just like this:

Major issues with Wolf SPP. Many people were having major failures of the SPP a year+ ago. The silver SPP's would have a 10% failure rate. Any of the brass colored Wolf primers have been fine, but those silver SPP's were terrible. Had some in brass that were just fine. They were issuing refunds for the asking for a while until people who never even bought the primers started requested refunds. I think Wolf has pulled all their SPP off the market and may not bring them back. The LPP have been problem free for me and they are only $16 per K. It was said that Tula was taking over for Wolf however, Wolf are still being restocked at PV so I can only assume they are still sending out product.

Montana Gold 124gr JHP 3.9gr Titegroup 1.10 OAL CCI Primer and usually Win cases = 134PF out of a M&P Pro and pretty close out of a G17. I don't have an issue with flash or flip. It's the cleanest, cheapest, little smoke, most versatile powder I have used. I use it on everything I load; 9mm, .40. and .45. It is hot burning so I limit it to bullets that have a fully encapsulated rear.

Thanks for the replies guys. If you could combine the best of the Trojan and the Sentry it would be my ideal gun. The undercut Trojan w/ the forged, polished, stainless parts, magwell, strap checkering, and the RM of the Sentry. Maybe the undercut isn't as big of a deal as I am making it out to be, I'd like to get as high on the gun as possible though. Here is a thread with several examples: Undercut

I've got a Spartan and have done several thing. I added the S&A magwell, a 3# trigger job, gunner grips, and front strap grip tape. I left the front sight on it as I am starting to lean towards the slightly larger fronts (Sevigny), I probably will replace it with a slightly narrower Dawson at some point. A few things I'd like to do if I just had money to burn would be checkering the front strap, cerakoting it, and replacing the barrel bushing (the stock one is pretty weak). Going too far takes it out of a budget 1911 and into the midrange Sentry level which has all of the bell's and whistles out of the box.

Been on the search for a undercut 1911. So far all that I have found is the STI Trojan, but I do not care for the front strap cutouts. I see a midrange 1911 in my future but this feature is appealing to me.

Using a Bear Creek 200gr SWC MOLY w/ 4.9gr Titegroup @ 1.25 OAL is good shooter and smokes like a jacketed bullet. Titegroup and straight lead are just too smokey.

230gr J&K Hard Cast RN - 1.25 OAL - 3.9gr Clays's - STI Spartan ~180 PF very accurate though My next batch with be in the 3.6 to 3.7 range.

I load the Bear Creek 200gr SWC in my STI Spartan with no problems. I use the Novak mags. My load is BC 200gr SWC, 1.25 OAL, 4.8gr of Titegroup, and the Lee taper crimp.

Thanks for the replies. These bullets like many lead 9mm bullets have no defined shoulder and slowly taper in. My suspicion is that you can get a pretty long OAL before the bullet engages the rifling. There is no doubt the tip of the bullet can extend past the chamber deeper into the rifling without touching it than most. I've known of the seating test bullets in the removed barrel, but with this particular bullet I'm not 100% sure this would be the best solution. I will give it a try and report back the results.

I'm working up a 147gr (Flat Nose) Bear Creek moly load and have been looking through the forum and see several people posting 1.10 OAL's. That seems awfully short for a bullet that is ~.673 in length. The pressure has to be on the high side. I load my Montana Gold 124gr JHP's to 1.10 and they are ~.577 in length, considerably shorter. Also my old Hornady 147gr FMJ bullets were ~.693 and I loaded those out to 1.15. I'm thinking something in the 1.14 to 1.15 range. Anyone loading a moly 147gr that is ~.673 in those ranges. I'm using titegroup and see very little smoke with the Bear Creek moly's.

MG JHP's will have a more cocentric/consistent base. Take a close look at the CMJ's and you might notice the small gaps in the copper disc. JHP for me

I've shot both the Sevigny and Dawson and prefer the Sevigny. Both are great sights, but it's the little things for me. Dawson's are sharp and will rust , the metal is also a bit soft. The improvment I would like to see with the Sevigny is a longer front sight (more exposed fiber) and a recess on the front hole to hold the fiber in place without balloning it, a minor issue. I prefer the sight picture on the Sevigny. Dawson is a great company though and a great supporter of our sport.

Clay's has been one of the softest shooting powders I have shot. However, I had isues with getting PF. I could get right to the min , but going 2 or 3gr up really didn't make much difference. Others in my shooting circles have had similar issues. A few of my plain Clay's loads out of a G17 w/ Lone Wolf barrel (which is a bit slower than factory): 147gr FN hard cast 2.7gr Clays 1.10 OAL 124 PF 147gr FN hard cast 2.9gr Clays 1.10 OAL 127 PF

I'm a big fan of the MG 124gr JHP w/ 3.8g of TG and OAL @ 1.10. I shoot them out of my my Pro and Glock 17 before that.

I like it cause I can use it for 9mm, .40, and .45. Lead just doesn't work with me and hot powders though. I shoot MG jacketed, some Berry's, and moly coated. Solo 1000 had wild variations between batches. VV can be hard to find and it's darn near twice as expensive as other similar powders. Clay's has been a soft shooter for me, but making PF can sometimes be an issue. It makes it nice to keep one powder in my hopper and dirty guns hasn't been any more of problem than factory or other powders.

Looks like Lee has changed the design and the old parts are no longer available.

Maybe I'm one of the few without issues with the LNL case feeder. Never have the brass rain issue and only on very rare occasion have I had an upside down case. How many cases are you guys putting in the hopper? While loading 9mm I would say I use no more than 300. Possibly using the wrong tube? Small tube for 9mm and large for .40/.45 with matching hardware.

Sorry fixed a few typos. IPS should have been tips. The Redding does work off the ogive.

CS suggested the #6 V block for 9mm (I use it on .40 too) and it has all but eliminated any tipping.

I had a dviot on the press from the primer punch wearing away at it. I got ahold of some stainless steel washers which gives the punch about another 1/6th of height to push the primers in.

I've got a LNL with a Redding comp seating die and I also will see .003+/- on MG 124gr JHP. One thing I found is that the tips of the MG JHP's will vary a little bit. If you rotate the round and measure it in several places I bet you will see slight variations. .003 is not gonna make a difference in pistol rounds out to 50 yards IMO. I do see more consistency with like head stamped brass (sorted).

I think both are excellent suggestions. Will give a bump to my load and have a 15 lbs spring in reserve. I did lower my PF just a bit around the time this started, never gave it a thought. Thanks guys

I've had this problem for a few months now on a stock G17 w/ 3.5 connector. It's a competition gun and am slowly chipping away at possible causes. Initially I had an extended slide stop which I though was the problem, but went back to the stock stop and still have the problem. Shot 5 stages today and it failed to lock back twice on an empty mag.. Just swapped out my mags for a new set this match hoping that was the cause, so that's out. Stock recoil spring with about 3K rounds through it. About the only thing left to suspect are light loads, but my 147gr loads are 130PF. Any other ideas? I'm tempted to try a lighter recoil spring even though this problem never occured early on when the gun was new. A new stock spring (stiffer) would seem to make the problem worse. I'm aware of my grip and am not close to the slide lock when firing.

I have been seeing more and more 9mm MAJOR brass at my local ranges which all run weekly competitions. These cases almost always bulge in the unsupported barrel area. Even though I may only get a few cases per hundred, I went ahead and got the EGW U die which has fixed the problem. I was gauging all of my ammo there for a while to identify the issue and one thing all the failures had in common was this ring just up from the case rim. Major loads have really been a PITA for range pickup brass, but I belive I have resolved the issue.