sarpau

Isn't that contrary to how the inertia system works? Doesn't adding more weight to the gun decrease reliability with lighter loads? Your tube is a one piece steel tube with an added sleeve over top correct? Just when you thought you kind of understood the working of the system...

My intent was that it would result in a brief conversation about inertia systems, seeing as the topic was brought up and it looked like there were willing participants to the conversation. Obviously I was foolish. I was hoping to find out the differences (if any) between the 3000 and 3500 springs (inertia and recoil) from someone who may have some first hand knowledge. Have a 3500 that I want to mess around with for fun. I like to learn. My M2 cycles anything I put through it and I have no reason to change platforms.

Would a weaker inertia spring help with the cycling of really light loads?

I know everyone is catching up from SHOT last week, but any chance of checking to see if my app was received? Just want to make sure it didn't get lost in the mail. Thanks Paul

I think there are 2 of us so far. (hopefully more) Everyone better bring their A-game, don't want to be beat by a couple Canadians!!

Wow. Didn't know it was in there. Just looked at mine. Now I have to go look at the other guns. Thanks for the info Dustbuster1 Paul Edit.. just looked at the interface between the piston and the Oring that is in the gas cylinder, and there is all kinds of play. Doesn't look like there is much sealing going on between these two parts at rest. When the gun fires, not sure. Either way, thanks again for the info. I doubt I would have ever seen that Oring on my own.

Same with mine. In fact, I don't think I've ever owned a Beretta that had an O ring.

Some dirt could have found its way into your mag tube and just happened to jam up that final shell/the follower. Worked itself free on your way home and popped out when you cycled the action. Unload and show clear, its good to make a habit of looking in chamber and mag tube. Safety issue aside, that's an easy way of getting bumped into open for having too many rounds in the gun at the start signal or the next stage. And a DQ at IPSC matches for coming to the line with ammo in the gun.

Last I checked, Tommy uses a Benelli.

Cool. Off an empty start, where you are permitted to have the action open, you have one less movement to do in terms of having to charge the gun. When the action is closed, does charging the gun automatically feed one out of the tube? or do you still have to hit the button/pull the trigger to get a shell out of the magazine? I currently load 2/4 weak hand so during the time/movement to get the gun up to my shoulder, I have racked/loaded the chamber and ready to go once I get my sight picture. Even if the start position allows me to have the action open on an empty gun, I start action closed as its faster for me. Load the tube as fast as possible, and then load the chamber on the way to my shoulder. On an empty chamber start, but magazine loaded, I put one on the lifter so I just rack the bolt back and off I go. I'd like to play with the A5 more as I do like the gun, but Blaster's statement makes it seem as though he wins competitions because the A5 is vastly superior. I would like to hear his thoughts as to why. He made a pretty bold statement. And curious as to why he feels a longer course of fire favours the A5 vs the Benelli (or I guess any other platform)

Would like to hear your thoughts on why. I've put maybe 20 rounds through an A5 so don't have much experience with them, but have been shooting benelli's in one form or another for a while. Genuinely curious as to what I'm giving up by not using one.

Forgot my holster so I didn't get a chance to use the open glock this morning, borrowed some gear for the IPSC match, but used my AR in the afternoon. AR was sitting in the trunk of the car all morning, and out on safety table in the afternoon between stages. No issues what so ever. Temps were around the 30F mark in the afternoon. Overcast and windy. Much colder than the morning where we at least had a little sun from time to time. Don't know about extreme weather use, but anything I'm willing to go shoot in, I'd say the lube is reliable enough.

Yes R Elliot, I too would like for you to experiment with the FC in the cold, seeing as I'm shooting Open tomorrow against you! Its Paul. I think we're in the same squad. I use FC on my AR, but I've only ever used it in decent weather. Have a 2gun match tomorrow after the IPSC match. We'll see if there are any issues with the AR. I may have to put some FC on my open Glock and see how it does at the IPSC match. My shotgun has always received my proprietary blend of Mobil 1 10w30, ATF, and Red n' Tacky wheel bearing grease. Never had an issue with that in any weather conditions, including being out in the "WTF am I doing out here" cold while rabbit hunting. Will report back after I thaw out tomorrow.

This was an awesome match. Well worth the drive from Canada. I too would have prepaid for next year's if I could. Thanks again to the organizers and RO's for a great overall experience. The sponsors were extremely generous and we were amazed at how good the entire prize table was. Squad 12, was fun shooting with all of you and hope to do so again soon.

Took a quick trip to the range today to function check and 1 in 10 SA resets didn't work, and the trigger would go dead with the hammer cocked back. (similar to the issue noted in the "trigger job help" thread) Dry fire function was fine, but live fire, not so much. Put the one piece sear and its disconnector back in, and all is good. Nice firm positive reset, with lots of trigger bar movement. Trigger still feels nice with the xtreme hammer. I have to figure out what the trigger bar is binding on, that is preventing it from raising high enough to reset properly. It has to either be the new disconnector, or lower firing pin block leg of the 2pc sear. Those are the two big dimensional changes vs the 1pc sear and its disconnector, which work perfectly right now. Will take measurements this weekend if I have time and see if I can figure out what is getting in the way.

Thanks. Like I mentioned, the function is fine, just wondering if something was "out of spec" as I'm fairly new to Tanfoglios. Been playing with CZ's for a few years though. Thanks for your time Paul

Thanks Cha-lee Sear angles seem to be fine. I think some of the issue is I had too much lube in there. Cleaned up there is a more positive reset click. Gun functions just fine, maybe I'm striving for perfection that isn't there in a production gun? I found an angle to be able to see the trigger bar movement upon reset, and it looks like it is only coming up about 40 thousandths before the bar bottoms out. Could the leg of the sear not be protruding enough out of the bottom of sear cage? The leg of the firing pin block protrudes almost twice as much. Took a couple of quick photos.

Just finished upgrading the internals on my Stock 2. Went from a 1pc sear to a 2pc, xtreme hammer and the appropriate disconnector (shaved wing version) Double and single action feel great. The reset in SA is nice and short, but the reset isn't giving me a nice positive click like I'm used to with my CZ, or what I remember from the old parts. It is faint and if I go really slow, I hardly hear/feel anything. Plunger spring is stock so it has more than enough upwards pressure. Without being able to see what is happening under the sear upon reset, its hard to identify what could be improved. I have an idea, but would like to maybe learn from someone's experience before I start testing my theories Thanks Paul

I slapped a mag well on my Shadow, along with extended base pads, and it has been my 3gun gun for the past couple of years. Until recently this gun was also my IPSC/USPSA production gun. (obviously I remove the magwell) Clearing vs safety, it all depends on how far from the dump area I am. If I'm more than 1 step, I'll clear it just to be safe. If I'm standing right over the dump bucket, I'll use the safety.

Just learned this from a friend. Take old drill bit that has a shank the size you need in a punch. Drill into the handle material of your choice...I have a bit of aluminum rod scraps. friend uses brass. Leave the drill bit in he rod and squish the material around it so it grabs into the flutes. Presto, instant pin punch. Cost me pretty much nothing as the dull drill bit and scrap rod pieces had no real use any more.

Same with me. That's why I fill up 10 at a time. Only difference is that with the pal filler it happens much faster and my fingers/wrists have zero impact from plucking one primer at a time with the standard method.

Got my Pal Filler from Redtipbullet.com It is much faster than picking them up by hand, and my wrists/fingers don't get all cramped by picking them up one by one with the tubes. If you are only loading a hundred at a time, maybe just the regular manual tubes are enough. I load a thousand per loading session so the Pal Filler is perfect for me. Flipped in the tray, I can look at all the primer compounds and anvils to make sure all is good, then dump them in the tubes. Load 10 tubes and I'm good to go. Plus, Redtipbullet.com is in Canada so the exchange rate is favorable.

If I'm reading the chart correctly, seems the highest muzzle pressures are the powders that have the lowest burnt powder %. How does that factor into the reliability statements in the text at the beginning? Also, do they have the highest muzzle pressure due to the fact that the powder is still burning in the comp???

Thanks for the updates Jomar What is the cost for this match? I'm in Canada and would like to prepare the US bank draft ahead of time. Also, who should the payment be made out to? Thanks Paul

Running my M2 wet has never let me down. I've run WAY more than 300 rounds between cleaning and never an issue. My recoil spring is original and it has multiple thousands of rounds as well as me racking/dryfiring it. Some very experienced Benelli shooters have verified that they like to be run wet. Every gun is different. Hope yours functions perfectly going forward.