CJW

I use Light Full (0.030"), Light Mod (0.015"), and Skeet (0.005") in my M2. That means LM about 80% of the time, LF about 15% of the time (hard or far steel), and SK rarely (all close clays and maybe big, easy steel). My slugs are zeroed at 50yds with LM but are almost indistinguishable with the other chokes at that distance.

I think 10# would be way too light. I would try 11# and 12#. For me, I started with an 11# Wolff, went to 12#,then ended up with a 12.5# ISMI. The guide rod makes a difference, too. The RecoilMaster that came in my Dawson STI seemed to like a lighter spring than the Dawson toolless I switched to.

Sure, I understand that, and it took me years until I decided to go that route. I am just offering my opinion that it was completely worth it, despite the price.

I double up on hear pro, plugs and muffs. I used ProEars for years, and I think MSA Sordins are the only other ones in the same league for the quality of the electronics. If you plan to always wear double hear pro, you can save money by getting cheaper electronics (the Howard Leights are, I think, unbeatable in the sub-$50 range) to amplify conversation while trusting a good set of -32dB (or more) plugs to be your primary protection. Don't wear only cheap electronic muffs, though, because what makes them cheap is the response time; i.e., some loud noise will bleed through before the electronics cut in, so you will be getting more loud noise than just the Noise Reduction Rating would suggest. Just this past year, though, I switched to electronic plugs and I think it was really worth it, for a couple of reasons. I don't think anybody makes muffs that will reduce by 30 dB or more, and even that rating is tied to the exact fit to your noggin. In particular, the ProEars band seems to be fairly bad at forcing the muffs closed around the bottom of the ears—it squeezes high. Also, while I use muffs to mount a camera at matches, there are times I really want to use just plugs and still have the electronic benefit. I ended up with HearPro's -37dB plugs (they work great—I had the non-electronic version of them for a couple of years) with electronics. Works great for plugs only, and I can enhance the noise reduction by putting cheap muffs over top. Since the muffs are what are most likely to take a beating, this works for me.

Yeah, but are your turret clicks in Kelvin or Rankine? :-)

Yeah, Phase 5, that's what I meant. Works fine, just like a BAD lever but lighter. Just don't plan on changing your mag release easily after you install one.

There are several variations on a right-side bolt release, such as the Lancer lower receiver. I am aware of only two solutions for a right side bolt release/lock. The first is an add-on such as the Magpul BAD lever or the similar product from Phase 3. Nothing wrong with them on a competition rifle, and I use them on most of my lowers. The second choice is the Teal Blue Bravo PDQ Ambi bolt release: http://www.tealbluebravollc.com/. It replaces the standard bolt release and requires some cutting of the receiver to provide the right-hand slot for the lever to stick out. Aero Precision makes an ambi lower receiver that comes pre-cut and includes a PDQ Ambi for installation: http://aeroprecisionusa.com/aspx/store/productdetail.aspx?pid=37. I have two Aero lowers that I have not yet built out, but I think it is a very good solution. I got to fondle some sample JP rifles with the Teal Blue PDQ at ProAm a couple of years back, and it seems like a very solid product.

For what it is worth, it takes me about 30 seconds to switch from major to minor PF. I have two Dawson toolless guide rods for my STI Edge, with different springs. I take down the slide, swap rods, and reassemble. I run Atlanta Arms remanufactured 180gr .40S&W at 1.180 OAL, which they sell in both major PF (chronos at 169–170 at matches) and minor PF (which I have not chrono'ed). The minor 180gr is pretty much like shooting 147gr 9mm.

What they said... The .308 Win was basically a way to take advantage of improvements in propellants to get .30-06 performance in a shorter cartridge, which reduced encumbrance for ammo carried and also had the advantage of reducing the travel length of the action. In a bolt action, that means shorter throw and in an auto-loader that means higher rate of fire. I think (and may be wrong) that short action specifically covers any of the .308 Win derived cartridges, whereas long action will be anything bigger, like the Magnums (.300 Win Mag, .338 lapua, &c.). I am not sure what fishsticks meant about Savage being an exception—my Model 12 LRP in 6.5CM is a short-action bolt rifle.

Not realy. Holster a rigid and fixed on the most convient position possible, the trigger is completely covered and gravity works to keep the gun in the holster. I have seen far more loaded pistols hit the dirt coming out of a holster with no external interference than getting ripped out by a stray sling. It shocks me that I still see people at major 3-Gun matches without an active retention system on their holsters.

Great, thanks. With any luck, I can place an order at Academy to be held until I arrive to pick it up.

Can anyone recommend a local place in the Austin area to buy birdshot (Win AA) after I fly in?

There are a bunch of threads about modding the M2 and similar guns for loading. The two main methods of modding the shell latch are (1) widen the U-notches at the bend point of the shell latch, or (2) bend the shell latch at the U-notches to decrease engagement area on the loaded shell rim. I expect that is the same advice in the Versamax thread, but you should be able to find similar details (with pictures) in old threads for the Benelli, as well.

I like those photos! Yeah, in my thumbnail math I didn't even take into account the distance before the shot even begins to open up. I figure you could easily have two feet worth of tube past your muzzle and still not have any issues.

18.5" barrel, 11-round (soon to be 12-round) tube. No issues. Think of it this way—for most shotguns, something cylinder choke is going to produce a spread of about an inch per yard traveled, so that's 1/3rd inch per foot...and you are probably choking tighter than that.

I shoot a .40S&W STI Edge. I run it major power factor for USPSA; for 3-Gun, I usually swap springs and run it at minor PF, but have the option of shooting full power if I am looking at spinners or other troublesome steel targets.

I run the AA Light Target Loads at 1145fps in my M2. I wouldn't go any lighter than that, personally.

Thanks. When do you expect to have an approximate round count?

Is there an address to which we can ship ammo? Also, is there a recommended local sporting goods place where I can purchase my Winchester AAs when I get into town (or have them waiting to pick up)?

Well, good luck. I bought a G-Code last year and it did not fit my Edge. When I called to ask about it, I was eventually told they do not make a holster for that pistol.

I have my WRS on a TMMS. I have, for the occasional IDPA match, moved the holster from a D/OS to a TMMS outer direct on a Tek-Lok. That does push it a bit farther from the body than a direct belt mount, but it was perfectly usable in that configuration.

I recall Trapr describing the method for cutting down a ComforTech stock at a pre-ProAm session a couple years back. The big deal is that there is basically only one length you can cut off and still be able to attach a buttpad to it when you are done. Has anybody done this? Got any pictures of the cut job or suggestions on doing it properly? Thanks!

Generally not, so long as the rules are clearly written. Specific rules may require that an intentionally grounded (but not abandoned) gun have the safety engaged, and you'll probably get hosed for improper abandonment if, for some reason, you move more than about a step away from it. Most places require properly (in appropriate container) abandoning one gun before shooting a different one, so don't stand up form that rifle, draw and use your pistol, and then go back to the rifle... But, as asked, you should be fine leaving an on-safe rifle on the ground long enough to stand and pick it up again. As with all things rules related, if you think you want to do it and you aren't sure, ask the stage RO before you are up to the line. (If you are at a USPSA match or one that is using USPSA rules for some reason, they specifically allow grounding a safe firearm and define what it means to remain "in control".)

I bought my M3000 to have a backup to my M2. Since my M2 is a Tactical model with ghost ring sights (which I love when there are slug targets to be shot) I also now have an entire shotgun with a field barrel/vent rib for about the price of an extra Benelli barrel. My local club doesn't really do slugs, so I figure I will run the Stoeger there once I send it off to Tom for some work.

I would take the Primary Arms 1-6x ($350 with mount, give or take) over an EOTech holosight/magnifier combo. Then again, even when I started out with an EOTech I thought paying hundreds of dollars for their 3x magnifier was a waste of money and I bought a cheap Primary Arms 5x which worked well enough. If you really want to get into the game shooting an EOTech, then the best choice is to shoot Irons (or whatever version of the 1x red dot division match rules provide).