Boxerglocker

Above is incorrect. You no longer need to have polymer guide rod in Glocks to stay in SSP 1) The new IDPA rule book specifically allows recoil rods of any material not heavier than stainless steel in SSP. Under permitted modifications for SSP 8.2.1.3.4. Recoil spring guide rods and dual spring recoil systems made of material that is no heavier than stainless steel 2) What would bump you to ESP (in a Glock for example) is a sleeve or bushing in the slide to accept a different type of recoil spring assembly or rod. This violates 2 rules for SSP. Under SSP excluded modifications 8.2.1.4.1. Externally visible modifications other than those listed in the Permitted Modifications section. ... 8.2.1.4.5. Slide inserts to accommodate a different recoil assembly design. Thanks for the clarification

If you examine the Gen 4 guide rod while there is a steel sleeve in the Gen 4, the actual rod is polymer. Therefore the correct choice for IDPA SSP is the polymer one, any other material would bump you into ESP. This is what I have concluded after questioning at our local IDPA SO rules clinics on various forums and consulting with Jager.

I load lots of .356 135RN Bear Creeks and have come across same issue in load development. The 3 things that really helped my consistencies: 1. Center your dies on your toolhead with dummy rounds loaded. 2. Use HOS case lube. 3. Give a generous amount of flare to seat the bullet. (crimp to .377-.378) Note: I case gauge all my loads with a EGW 7 hole block which is minimum diameter per SAMMI specs, if it fails I try my single round Dillon case gauge which is maximum.

Which Springfield XD holsters do you have? You say it fits fine is it adjustable for tension? I'm thinking of getting a DAA low ride for a Springfield XDM to use with my soon to come FNS9 LS.

I’ve owned 2 SDBs and paid for less than $250 for each newly refurbed one. I wouldn’t recommend buying one new. In your case if you’re not going to shell out the extra funds for a XL650. Get a 550, more versatile in the long run.

Love my STI Spartan in 9mm tricked out for ESP

I've run those BC 147 FP up to 3.6s with WST at 1.10 using a Lone Wolf Barrel.... I'm a firm believer in the running 147 at a minimum 940 fps (135PF) for accuracy reasons.

This thread got me motivated to try out 4 pounds of W231 I had sitting under the bench. I split a 8 pound jug with a buddy early last year just as a backup. Anyways I loaded 100 rounds to test out at last Saturdays local IDPA match 4.6g with a 124 Extreme RN at 1.150 CCI SPP. This load turned out great, super accurate with my stock sprung 4th Gun G17. Afterwards I quickly set the chrono up to test it. 10 shots averaged 1068 fps, SD was 22 with mixed brass. 133 PF

For problem #2 just run a FL sizing die. I think you'll find if properly set to do 80-90 percent of your sizing that your primer problem will disappear as well. Set you trim die to the final sizing depth, make sure you have a dummy case in your FL sizing die when you do.

Doesn't the extra sizing following the Trimming operation, change the length of the brass ? If it does, then the length will vary between different types of brass ? IF you are bumping the shoulder back during the extra sizing step after trimming, yes you are theoretically increasing the length.

I would suggest, running 12-15 cases through your SDB sizing die only. Check those cases against you barrel first. If they all pass, load them up. BTW if your not using HOS lube, you should. It makes sizing easier and more consistent. However, It may not be your actual sizing, could be seating. If the bullet isn't seating straight you could try a little more flare.

+1 Gabe.... Bayou bullets and WST in .40 minor.... Magic, no smoke.

It is often recommended in accuracy circles not to reduce the neck diameter by more than 0.005" in a single step, otherwise the neck reduces by more than you intend and runout can be introduced. Consequently I run a bushing neck die before the RT1200 to do the first 0.004 or 0.005 of neck-down (Redding comp neck die with TIN bushing). The Dillon trim die then does the body, shoulder and final few thousandths of neck sizing, but it still requires an expander afterwards due to the tight neck dimensions of the Dillon die. A new trim die from CH4D is headed my way today. The CH4D dies are compatible with the RT1200 but have more normal neck dimensions. I still plan to expand a little, but by 0.001 or 0.002, rather than 0.004 or 0.005. Curious if anyone else has experience of these dies. Also, while I understand reasons to neck down in two steps, I'm not sure why to FL size twice. I don't necessarily disagree with recommendations but, the proof of the pudding is what your gear can actually do have and the load you develop. This load group at 100 yards is a Nosler 55 Ballistic tip with H335 and Wolf SRM primers. That's 5 shots with a called flyer. The brass was all once fire LC sorted by year and processed as described with a Dillon FL sizer and RT1200 Trimmer. Rifle Remington 700 SPS 1-9 twist 20 inch barrel benched and sandbagged.

WHAT!?! That's what I initially though when I first decided to get this set up. It wasn't until I started asking questions that I found out people were doing it all kinds of different ways. What would be the disadvantage in doing it that way? I can't see any.... There aren't any IMHO and I have pictures of the targets to prove it.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=186174

I’ve loaded thousands upon thousands of rounds of .223 with the Dillon size die, no issues. I’ve tried the RCBS SB and the Lee’s. The Dillon works the best IMO with a 650/1050 progressive. Concentricity isn’t even an issue when loading for a hungry AR. I neck size only for my bolt gun precision loads using a LEE COLLET neck sizer. I start with NEW Lapua match brass form fire and neck size only for 4-5 firings, anneal then Full length size with a RCBS Gold Medal Match Series Bushing Full Length Sizer Die. Then start the process all over again. Lapua brass is the best investment you can get for a bolt gun. I can get a whole lot of firings from one case.

This reason exactly is why I do the same. If the neck is out of round before placing it through the Rt1200 trim dies it will not be round after.

In all honest, I don't see why so many people find that the Rt1200 sized brass has excessively tight necks. I've got LC brass loads for my AR and bolt gun processed as stated above that consistently do one half or better MOA out to 200 yards and within MOA out to 500 for midrange F-class using vmax and smk bullets. Maybe just my particular die but it works.

Decap and Full length size at Station 1, Deswage at station 2, Trim with Rt1200 at station 5. I just set the RT1200 size trim die to Mimic the FL size die, not bump the shoulder back any further.

All I use in my JM Pro is Winchester Super Target #6 and 7.5 as mentioned above clean and keep the piston dry.

DITTO!

I don't understand why this is such a HUGE issue with so many people. Just put a 1/2 piece of clear vinyl tubing over the end. You should never have more than one or 2 primers skip at a time anyways otherwise your not watching your case count closely enough. I load 200-500 rounds at at time and rarely miss a primer. Have a dozen or so already sized and deprimed cases in a cup sitting on you press ready to go. If you feel there is a case that got by that has a issue swap it out at station 2 and move on.

How so Mark? I don't run them very often in my AR's mostly my bolt gun.

Just as a point of reference I run a 50g Vmax with 24.8g of TAC @ 2.250 OAL. I will do under MOA in my 1-8 twist 18 inch AR and well under 1/2 MOA out of my 1-9 R700 20 inch bolt gun. I came across a couple hundred moly coated flat bottomed Sierra 53g HPs on a trade and quickly loaded them up for upcoming local match just to burn through them. Same load 24.8 gave me very similar results. I didn't even have to adjust zero, I tested on the 50 yard line and shot a few clays out at the 200 yard line called it good enough.

I agree with JJ's statement and have found that on my XL650 which is where I FL size and Trim my rifle brass a slight overcam is required to get the correct setback for my.223 Wylde chambers AR (I have confirmed with a Horandy comparator, EGW and Dillon case gauge).