Boxerglocker

OP just get a extra toolhead that's the beauty of the 650 over the LNL, all your dies stay together.

I use power pistol regularly for my simulated SD loads, meter flawlessly in my 650.

This here is the fix. Check the cap screw that holds the ramp block make sure it is tight. Adjust with a fired empty case in station 2 with the lever forward as if seating a primer. That is what controls the insertion depth into station 1.

OK, I came across this same issue several years ago. Having a die come loose when "feel" torquing it down. Being an aircraft mechanic for over 20 years and super anal about torque specs. When I got my first press I researched and number of torque charts for 7/8x14 steel thread pitch and tension loads against both aluminum and steel bearing surfaces. From all I researched (which really didn't take much) I derived 18-22 foot pounds would be appropriate for Dillon dies on a Dillon aluminum toolhead being a tension load. Which all stations loaded with dummy rounds or empty brass. I use a either a deep wheel 1 inch socket or a 1 inch crows foot or torque adapter set at 90 degrees to the torque wrench head. After torquing my tool dies on my tool heads I apply a bead colored torqued inspection lacquer to the nut so that at a glance I know if the die nut has broke loose. I've never had it happen after going through the above procedure. It works for me but of course YMMV.

As stated the crimped military case can easily be removed at station 2 prior to priming and the powder dropped. I’m one of those OCD… I hate to waste primers type of guys. I’ve been running a XL650 for quite a while now and all I ever load is mixed brass S&B, WCC included. What I have found is with a well maintained press. Meaning all the recommendations given above by Brian as well as ensuring that everything is well greased at the presses pivot and sliding point along with the use of HOS on my brass. The sensitivity to feeling any abnormal pressure to seat primers is greatly increased. I load 400-500 rounds at a rate of 6-7 minutes per a hundred on average, with a smooth rhythm. When pushing forward to seat a primer I can literally feel the extra resistance and can stop, pull the case, confirm the issue (most of the time a crimped pocket) and then replace with a previously sized case that I keep a number of in a small bin under my completed cartridge bin. At every loading session I always run an extra 10-12 cases through the sizing and decap die to have then at the ready for the next session. After a while every 3-4 sessions, I will take a few minutes to cut the crimps off the collected brass with crimped primers using a VLD bit on my Horandy case prep center. I really don’t see the need to toss away usable brass, I don’t even have issues with S&B most of the time.

I'm a huge WST fan for 9mm moly coated or LRN bullets. FMJ however I would choose another powder, maybe W231. I have found you have to push WST pretty hard for CMJ and FMJ loads, You'll be pressed pretty hard to make major in .40 even with those 200s Of course YMMV but if you decide to try be wawy, wawy careful.

Are you using a Dillon case gauge to set up the trim die to get the correct set back? What lube are you using?

Best deal out there for transporting an AR and shotgun to and from a match IMO. I really like mine,

I want it as tight as possible to get the most number of reloads and prevent loose primer pockets. If I can push the primer in by hand I dont think any press would have difficulty though. I've never had problems priming brass, its been the opposite it seems easy to prime even with the least amount of swage that Im doing. Your just chasing your tail, best you can do is segregate all your brass and reset for each type. I get 4-5 loads per a case with medium range loads and zero primer pocket issues.

I totally agree.

One tip always make your final adjustment turning the adjustment bolt turning clockwise. It take the thread slop out.

I agree it's definitely trial and error especially with mixed brass. After setting off a primer one time at the primer station on my 1050. I was doing what the OP was trying and get the crimp minimal, no more, I now have set mine a little on the more aggressive side. I haven't had any issues with loose pockets after several firing so think it's just right.

You can either take the larger of the spacers and sand them down a couple mm to accomdate Glock mags or contact Saul at DAA and have him send you some already machined down ones.

Head's up Brownells pre-order is back online, just ordered 2 at $18.95 each.

Because Dillon is too busy raking in boatloads of cash to fix glaring design flaws or hire more customer service reps. Sadly. I've done all the 'fixes' but still spill powder all over when reloading .308. What powder are you using? I load .308 with 147-155g FMJ and BL( C ) -2 the case at 45.0 - 45.5g is only 4/5ths full works great indexing on my 650.

I ordered a couple of conversion parts for my XL650 to use a .45 ACP conversion to load .308 back on April 4 and the order still shows finalized. Order Date: April 4, 2013 Order ID: 2723xx Status: Finalized

I actually figure out this method myself. Good advice to pass along.

All of the above.... the microswitch after bending the actuator can sometimes still be an issue. I have been planning to use small nylon washers to center it better in the tube but haven't had the time to get it done. I just keep a small skinny screw driver on the bench to prod a case should it get stuck. It really happens once every 200 cases or so.

The factory setting for the swage station on a 1050, is just a starting point, so is the primer depth. I initially had issues with my 1050 with primer swage and depth when I first tried it out with the factory settings. High primers were common the first couple hundred rounds. I had to make both adjustments to accommodate my use of mixed brass. WSR primers which in general are soft, I could see the possibility of having issues such as what you are having. I would back the swage rod off a quarter turn, check you primer seating depth and see in the fit improves.

I use 4.0 WST with a 135 moly coated RN Bear Creek. 1.150 OAL with a CCI SPP. Gets 1000 fpd consistently out of my STI Spartan 9mm and G34 with a LWD barrel. Good impulse in recoil accurate and clean. I would recommend you start at 3.5 and work your way up.

I prefer the magnums but I've used them all with no issues. My triggers are Geissele SSA, SD and a ALG with J&P yellow springs.

If it's happening with both it can ONLY be one of 2 things, overly aggressive swaging setting on both the 1050 and the super swage OR bad brass...

I have found that it really depends on the bullet ogive as to which one is more consistent. The 9mm BC RN 135g molys I use seat more consistently off the ogive with the Dillon dies but of course has a great OAL variance than using the Lees which have a more consistent OAL but greater variance when measuring off the ogive. The issue is whether they are pushing down on the tip or the actual ogive which is more consistent. I learned this through loading precision rifle that the preference for a more consistent inside the case area is always more desirable so always and check off the ogive when setting my dies. At that point +/- 0.005 OAL.

Another SS3 user here, zero complaints from someone that has had foot issues in the past. I run them for 3gun, USPSA and IDPA.

2.200 is pretty much standard with MG 55 fmjs.