OUshooter

Anyone know the record for oldest thread to be resurrected?

I'm calling BS on the 3GN targets. I love watching these folks shoot on TV, and a few in real life. However, for the same reasons I freaking hate the "turtle" targets I hate these "targets". God forbid we, as shooters, punch holes in targets that are roughly human shaped. I've got a news flash for the producers of 3GN and other shooting shows. The only folks watching are ones that are already into shooting sports. By making the targets more PC you only annoy/turn off folks, like myself, that are the "target" audience.

Welcome from another Tornado Alley brethren. No doubt you will find tons of great info here. Happy shooting.

I will turn a blind eye to the OSU reference in case my wife stumbles across this post. It's not that 200gr won't work, as much as the .40 caliber for our game plays into the hand of the 180gr. It seems to offer the best combination of recoil/handling while making major of all the bullet weights. I'm kind of a knuckle head, which means if someone says "do it this way" then I won't. So I bought some small lots of different bullet grains. Tried them all out using mostly bill drills at 15yrds. When it was all said and done I settled on the 180gr. If you shoot 200gr better than you shoot 180gr, then have at it. I know a few guys that could actually see a difference between the 175 and 180 LSWC.

I have to wholeheartedly concur. I had the same experience back in June. Called on Monday had it, blue, on Friday. Awesome service and the product couldn't be better. Not sure why blue isn't more popular. Guess OKC Thunder mania hasn't totally swept the country yet. What's really nice is being able to walk up to a rack full of AR's and spot mine from a long ways off!

I keep thinking I need to try a Vanek trigger, but just can't seem to justify it. I just don't see how for the money it can be that much better than my ghost connector with ZEV springs. I realize there is room for improvement on the design, but I'd rather by bullets and just learn the glock trigger. A ZEV connector, ZEV spring kit, lightened ZEV striker and a .25 cent trigger job get you a much better trigger. After that, most of what you are playing with is overtravel and take-up. An overtravel screw in the housing is almost essential to good technique. The Vanek is certainly very good. I am sure he can do better on his own guns, as can a few others, but the tolerances are a PITA. Also, you end up doing a trigger job every 10K to keep the safeties working. There are a lot of guys running trimmed safeties and trigger bars whose safeties don't work as intended. Keeping all the safeties working in a stable trigger job with reduced take-up and overtravel at 2 to 3 pounds, easy on an M&P, not so on a Glock. 3.5 pounds, you can get there and keep it pretty stable long term with an overtravel and learn to ride the trigger, probably the best wisdom on Glocks. I also can't seem to wrap my brain around the physics of how a lightened striker helps trigger pull.

Yeah. I've played with the overtravel adjustments, and have decided to just live with stock.

I don't see a 180gr Unique load but there are some 200gr Unique loads. So if you started there you should be good to go. http://www.k8nd.com/documents/hl40sw.pdf

Move it to early summer and you might entice an OK country boy to dodge some 100ºF days, and make a serious road trip for some school'n.

Manny found the exact same results on the clock-- no cant = better and quicker hits. Just like someone who is cross-dominant, the trick is to bring the gun to your eyes and not so much the other way around. A lot of folks are inclined to cock their head when shooting WHO, but it does funky things to the vision. Saul Kirsch has a great youtube video on this, check it out for free. OK that was good freaking stuff. THANKS!

I went out today and just ran WH drills. I did find that little to no cant worked better for me. I've been dry firing quite a bit and have tried to really keep the sights perfect. I keep finding myself trying to rush. It's like the freestyle part of my brain takes over and I can't stop it. I did get better recoil management from adding grip to the bottom fingers and less from the index. Seems counter intuitive to me but if it works...... I will continue to build until I can run 15yr bill drills at only a tick slower than my SH. Thanks a ton for the advice so far, and hope to see more.

I keep thinking I need to try a Vanek trigger, but just can't seem to justify it. I just don't see how for the money it can be that much better than my ghost connector with ZEV springs. I realize there is room for improvement on the design, but I'd rather by bullets and just learn the glock trigger.

I like my cm9. It pocket carries easily and so far runs pretty good. I've got less than 500 rds through it, so the jury is still out on overall reliability.

I thought that RO was right on the money. Looks as if he could clearly see the gun and shooter. My only question would be where is the clipboard RO? I hate it when the RO is crawling all over the shooter. He was in position the whole time to catch the last shot.

Oh BTW I hate Zombie's. To bad someone else in OK took ZOMBHTR so I had to take ZOMBRPR. I'd much rather be the hunter but reaper will do.

What a cool way to start!. For your eye dominance issue there is an easy trick. 1. Put on your shooting glasses 2. Place a small piece of "transparent" scotch tape over your left eye. 3. Draw and with both eyes open I bet you only see one set of sights Use it for all dry fire and even a few matches. Won't be long the tape won't be needed.

Out of the box my Spartan was quite honestly scary accurate with Monarch ammo at 15m. The trigger was "ok" but not great. No where near what I would consider an really good trigger, mainly it was the slop on reset. I paid $610 delivered & transferred, plus $80 for trigger work plus $110 shipping. The shipping was because I couldn't get it to feed SWC to save my life. With a full mag it would even choke on FMJ ammo. I talked to STI they asked that I send it in for work. STI worked it over and I had it back inside of 10days. Now the damn thing will feed empty cases, and is still scary accurate for a factory gun. STI is great to work with, and I still recommend their guns. Knowing now what I didn't know then I would get a Dawson Precision Trojan.

I had a revelation this summer after shooting a local match. One of our local guy's wife is a very talented professional photographer. She was snapping pics at our match and happen to catch my ugly mug in action. As I'm viewing the pics my conversion with the 4yr old goes: 4yr old: "Daddy why do you look so serious" Me: "Well honey shooting is serious business" 4yr old: "I thought you said shooting was fun" Me: ........stumped for a sec "It is baby it, it is." Here is the pic http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n483/sunlaha/38222228-DSC_6455.jpg I've since lightened up a bit and try to balance fun with serious.

I agree with Dan, if we could get all the load variables that would help get the ball rolling. Odds are though someone will have an answer.

A little off topic, but check to see if your crimp is set correctly. It's been discussed here quite a bit. There is a chance the powder doesn't have anything to do with the leading, and there is too much crimp.

I'm in the 1 load category. I hate screwing around with rifle reloading enough as it is, so the less I have to mess with the better.

Thread has kind of drifted, but I will say that I used to get annoyed at those long drawn out pre-start rituals. Then I started to realize those same folks were consistently whipping my butt in the standings. Needless to say I've started taking more time to make sure I'm in the zone before the start signal.

+1 for the barrel, single or double stacked depending on paper height. I picked up some of these hard foam rubber squares at Academy. They are for covering the floor at gyms/workout areas. I'm going to try using them between the popper and paper to see if they can handle the splatter.

I've seen this multiple times where a legitimate shot was fired, usually at standing steel, after the IYAFUASC but before ICHDH. No DQ's have ever been given, but if that was the wrong call then it needs corrected for any future occurrences. As the RO I won't initiate the ICHDH command until I have seen an empty chamber, with no mag in the gun.

Also, IMO: 1. A command change isn't going to help the situation any. 2. The onus is always on the shooter to conduct themselves, and handle their handgun in a safe manner.