MickB

Larue SPR-E for the mount. Burris MTAC with a Charlie Drissel cat tail if you are budget conscious. Mick

The barrel is a 16" Daniel Defense lightweight with mid length gas system. On an 18" or longer barrel, I would have gone with the 15" handguard. I'm not that comfortable with having the end of the handguard that close to the muzzle brake, I guess. Now, a 14" handguard for a 16" barrel would be perfect, IMO. I'm also thinking about putting some grip tape on the bottom of the handguard. I've done this to my PRI tubes. Anyone done this on the Samson Evolution? Mick

Thanks! This is what I did when tightening it down again. The instructions say "*** Do Not Over Tighten ***", but they aren't any more specific. Fingers crossed on no more slippage. Mick quote name='Bryan 45' timestamp='1319367616' post='1558263'] If you call Samson and ask how much to tighten the screws, they will tell you to stop when the two sides touch at the rear screw hole. I had one of my Evos slip on me, but it just needed another turn on the screw.

Is the upper moving around on the lower? if not, then check the handguard. Is the barrel nut tight? If not, then it will need to be tightened. Loose barrel not = not good for accuracy. Mick

I got the TRX Alpha rail in and it felt like a cheese grater, so back it went. I ended up going with a rifle length Samson Evolution. During testing, the rail slipped forward, si I've tightened the screws down a lot more. Question is, define "tightening them down properly"? Mick

Why noy just buy a NM front sight? To me that would be easier than filing... Mick

I like that idea. With the top of the dot at 200 yards, what are the ranges for the other dots for your rifle/ammo combo? Mick

The centre dot is about 3 MOA or so. Put the dot on the target and zero for 100 yards. Now, use the bottom of the dot as your sighting point, and you should be good for 200 yards. I was checking my zero over the weekend. I put the dot on black target circle and checked zero. Then took the same target back to 200 yards. I put the bottom of the dot on top of the black target (making an "8") and verified my rounds were hitting the top of the black. Mick Apologies in advance if this is a stupid question, but how do you go about doing this? Don't understand how you can zero the same dot for two different distances. Sure can't do that with my c-more =)

The build for my 13 year old son is a 16" Daniel Defense lightweight barrel with midlength gas system. It will have a Samson Evolution rifle length handguard, JP muzzle brake and Aimpoint Comp M4. Lower has a JP trigger. Very light.... Mick

A properly set up JP should have almost no recoil. Yes, I have a JP as well as two Noveske builds and the JP can be tuned to have less felt recoil... Mick

Sight the TAC and MTAC on 4X. Centre of middle dot for 100yds, bottom of dot for 200yds. Test at 200yds on 4X and verify. Do same for 300yds. For hoser stages, set at 1X and use the centre dot like an Aimpoint. Or, crank up the power till the circle brackets the target and use the centre dot for quick snap shots if you prefer... As already said, you still need to know where your rifle/ammo combo will shoot. That "300yd" dot may be 280yds or 320 yds for YOUR set up... Mick

These are the same tubes that Loki sells?? Mick

How do these attach to a standard barrel nut? I'm curious about the attachment method... Mick

Exactly what i did, except for loctite on the screw. The initial adjustment was starting with a clean rifle. I wanted to recheck the rifle when it was dirty before locking the screw. Same batch of ammo was used as before, except now the screw is 2 full turns further out... Mick

A few weeks ago, I set up the gas system on a new JP-15. The screw was set 3.5 turns out. Functioned well on Winchester Q3131A (Israeli M193), and bolt lock back was verified with some weaker PMC Bronze. Shot a match with it the next day, and left the rifle uncleaned to see how it would function after being left to sit dirty. When the rifle was set up, it was probably 105-110 degrees F here in AZ. Checked my scope zero for tomorrow's match, and found the bolt would not lock back and ejection was weak. I found that I had to open up the screw to 5.5 turns out to get back to reliable function. Temperature at the range today was about 75 degrees F. So, was it the rifle being dirty that caused it to require more gas, or the lower temperature? Or a combination of the two? Curious to see what others have done to ensure reliable function with an adjustable gas system. Mick

That the disconnector is either damn hard to see, or isn't even there? Mick

Set screws don't hold the gas block in place as well/tightly as a clamp design.... Mick What is wrong with this set screw design?

Take off the factory extension and check the fit of the nut to the extension. The extension could be working loose from the nut and now you have a gap between the extension and the mag tube. Worst case is the tube will fly off during a match and you will be left with a long spring hanging out, a stunned look on your face (with background laughter) and a single shot. Ask me how I know... Mick

Update. Blade tech DOH holster bolts right up to the ELS fork. CR Speed mag pouches can be adapted using a 12mm M4 screw and T-nut from your hardware store. Now to work something out for the CCW shotshell caddy... Mick

The silver finish on the frame is not very durable at all. I spoke to Angus and was told they have stopped doing that finish. Mick

SPR will work, but SPR-E will give you more flexibility long term. Also consider the Burris MTAC, the upgraded version of the TAC30... Mick

Do you know if there is any chance of a screw clamp design? Mick

Kurt, how does the quality compare to a JP adjustable gas block? Mick

Didn't your TAC 30 come with the rubber bikini cover? Mick

That was why the shell deflector was developed - for left handed shooters.... Mick