MickB

Check the ball on the dust cover that it is not gummed up. Should be an easy fix... Mick

Anyone use the Troy TRX Alpha Rail? It mounts to a standard barrel nut using a collar and the tube attaches to the barrel nut collar. Looks like this might be the way to go to avoid slipping rails like on the Samson and standard TRX rails? I'm thinking about the 13" model with no front sight for a build for my 13 year old son. I'm thinking the small diameter would be good for small hands. Anyone have any heat issues with handguards this small a diameter? Mick

You can get away with a Larue SPR if you push the scope all the way forward. if buying new, go with the Larue SPR-E for extra eye relief in case you need it. Mick

Mark, how do these feel compared to a JP? Mick

I agree that the 2MOA dot will be a better choice than the 4MOA dot on the ML2. I would sell the ML2 and buy an Aimpoint PRO for $400. Cheaper than the ML3 and comes with a useable mount as well as having the 2MOA dot.

Check your muzzle device is not torqued too tight... Mick

So does anyone know if the ELS kit can be adapted to work with a Bladetech DOH holster and CR Speed pistol mag holder? Mick

What about the JP Bennie Cooley brake? Mick

Whose CH is JP using in their rifles? I'm wondering if they are using the Nordic? Mick

Really? What's the weight of a PRI 15" versus a Firebird or JP of the same length? Mick And still heavier than a Firebird Helix or JP.

How about a CF handguard with holes, but with an added heat reflective coating on the inside? Mick Yep, we have a couple of things we are testing...

For the JP LMOS carriers, is there any advantage of one finish over the other? Does the black QPQ finish give any added benefits over the polished stainless? Mick

This was the very same upper that I personally saw consistently finish in the top 10 at Rio Salado local matches, so maybe there is something to what StealthyBalgga has to say... Mick

For a $1K budget, look at the DPMS 3G1... Mick

Anything to watch out for when removing the Bennie Cooley "blended" brake from a JP barrel? Is application of heat a must, or is it a simple twist off job, with the brake held on with blue loctite? Mick

Not if you have a cat tail. Plus the power ring allows you to effectively use a rear flip cap if that is important to you.... Mick

I have a new JP-15 with the 16" lightweight supermatch barrel. The manual that came with the rifle says to fire 20, then use JB bore compound. Then repeat two more times (fire 20 then use JB, fire 20 then use JB). Repeat again after 300 rds. This is supposed to maximize accuracy potential. On my Noveske barrels, the instructions say no such break in is necessary. So, for you guys with JP barrels - do you follow the procedure in the JP manual, or just shoot the darn thing? Mick

Now you know why the A-team never hit anything with theirs!

Got my MTAC through the SWFA deal. It came with the bikini lens covers, identical to what the TAC30 came with. Reticle is just as bright as the TAC 30. Mick

LOL! True, but this will be going on a backup rifle, which one of the kids will use soon enough.... Mick

I already have a Swaro Z6i on one rifle and am looking to put a scope on another. I was thinking of the Trijicon TR24 with green or red triangle reticle, but then I started thinking about the Burris MTAC. Any reason to spend the extra dollars and pick the Trijicon over the Burris? Mick

The "light" Young's carrier is the same weight as a USGI carrier. Dan Young and I weighed them in his shop when I was there last week. Young's NM carrier is heavier than USGI. The Super Light is about the same weight as a JP LMOS carrier. Mick

I have a recent build using a Colt 20" A2 1:7 government profile, chrome lined barrel. Has a Surefire brake, JP trigger, PRI hand guard. This combo was good enough to hit a 560 yard target using Winchester 55gr ball ammo with a Swaro 1-6. Same rifle and ammo with an Aimpoint PRO as the optic was good enough to hit the small plates at Rio Salado at 300 yards easily. So I would say good enough for our game, but each barrel might be a little different. Mick

Sounds like you've lost your second stage. After taking up the slcak of the first stage, you should hit a wall and then there is a crisp break. The fix, IIRC, is to put a piece of sand paper between the hammer hooks and sear. or, you could call Springfield and send them the trigger group to fix... Mick

So what about putting some loctite on the screw while removed from the block, letting the loctite dry and then doing the adjustment? Would that be a better way to do it? I'm getting close to setting my gas screw in place... Mick