EkuJustice

Take a bolt, place a couple fender washers on it, then the spring, then a couple more fender washers and a wing nut. You can then tighten the wing nut to compres the spring. Let it sit for about 10-15 min and check it. They told me they usuually do this compression at the factory but not always. mine went front not even able to install to functional in about 15 min

Pay a little extra and get the Weaver 1x3 scope, the V3. If your running your stock out and not going nose to charging handle then you can get by with regular high rings or even better the burrins pepr mount. VERY good scope for the money and will not hold you back. If you look on the classifieds they come up from time to time. Under 100 bucks your options are slim and will probibally be disappointed pretty quick. For a 22 those cheap dots might be decent(dot is usually huge) but on the ar15 they arnt as good or hold up as welll

Armeror's tool and either the upper receiver block or the barrel vice jaws and a vice. If your just doing the one barrel, ask around the club or a local smith. It is a pretty quick process if you have the tools but might be cheaper to have it done if you just need the one done

I would try the compression "tool". My sig spring was the exact same way. They said they are not always compressed before leaving. Mine went from not even able to get in the gun(thought they sent me the wrong spring) to working perfect in like 15 min in the device. Had about $1.50 in the whole tool

Didn't see anything in the rules against it just was checking club rules since some get a little fussy about those

just hold the grip in the right hand out to the side and run with it pointed at the berm. If I have to shoot on the way or reload a shotgun, I do a crossover side step. Very stable and that gun is not going to break 180. Its not going to be flat out run fast but if shooting is done on the way or reloading a shotgun is needed it can be done plenty fast and is stable without the gun bounching all over

I have had wolf springs before that would cause problems. They told me the spring might not have been compressed and "set" before it was sent out. It was on a sig and It wouldnt even go in the gun. What I did was make a compression tool out of a bolt, fender washers and a wingnut to compress the spring down and let it sit for a bit compressed. After maby 10 min compressed in my tool, It went right in the gun and worked perfect

If your wanting to swap calibers alot, skip the case feeder and go with the 550. Very easy to swap over calibers and tons of them out there

The guy doing the trigger work on mine said to just run the regular FP spring with the lighter main spring. On a regular main spring Im not sure it really matters. Mine all have the ISMI springs in them

Just think with that outfit and gun your shooting wont really matter people will be too busy laughing and thinking up cleaver remarks to say

+1 all my guns that will take them (just need to find one for a 45) have extended FP/Striker glocks and 1911/2011. With a weaker hit or a primer not quite set right it will still set it off. Light MS helps with flip but too light and you risk problems.

I would have a 17 pound also especially with factory trigger parts. I also run a McLean extended FP in mine. A 17 is a good compromise between reliability and feel

Smoother transition of shot from chamber to bore so it will pattern a little better. Im not sure how valuable that is for 3gun though

have to see if i can swing it. If so im im in

Minor could be an advantage depending on how the stages are setup. 8 round arrays major has it. If its setup for more of a 10 round array minor can be an advantage if you get the hits. The more steel there is, the more minor can shine.

on a glock the gun with the overtravel stop and no overtravel stop look the same to me at least. The pretravel removed will move the trigger location and will require the trigger safety be trimmed which is why that is no go on the pretravel

If the COF begins at Make ready is any comment before that really a range command? I have heard Range going hot as the shooter is walking up on a few occasions. Is that being used as a range command or a note of your were down range and not seen you might wanna speak up?

Tried other tracers in the past I got from a guy for nothing. Wasnt impressed. A pattern board is much better to use to fit the gun than the tracers.

Use one for the local matches around here quite a bit mainly for fun. Can usually hold my own with the rifle(MUCH better than I can with a pistol). I figure Im shooting for fun why not. I run a double star upper with a leupold prismatic 1x on the top. If I were real serious about it, I would use my other rifle but done the very serious thing in other sports and just shooting for fun now. If you want to try the SBR, give it a shot. The 10.5 is what Im running in a LW barrel. It is much more versitle than a 7.5 inch. I am waiting on my stamp to come back for a 7.5 inch 223 as well as a 9mm(plan to put a can on the 9mm). For the shorty, make sure you run an Oring with the extractor. A Spikes tactical buffer(like an H2 weight wise but with powder in it)really smooths the gun out. Mine will run a carbine buffer but is much more violent

Do any of the VV powders have some volume to them or are they pretty dense. Looking to get into 9mm loading and looking for something for a zero 124gr FMJ that isn't a tiny charge. In the 40, I use tightgroup which is a small charge but its easier to see deeper in the 40 than the 9mm. Will probibally be shot in a 1911 or a glock 34

they full targets at 200?

Is there any problem shooting an SBR on the range for this match?

Nissan. Their past fix was to swap the fluid. When the seal originally messed up and leaked a ton of fluid and probibally cooked what was left they simply topped it off and didnt drain what was left of the old. When i called to tell them it was messed up got told it has to come in under warranty mileage or its no go since it was drove all winter on the "repair" It was only very noticeable when it got hot from driving distance, hot outside, driving in the mountains etc so It didnt do it all winter since it was too cold so they assumed it was fixed. Believe me I watched it like a hawk on the drive down there. Thats why it was towed in The look on their face when they verified the mileage and signed off on the mileage just mad you want to

just got mine out today. Its nice being able to self schedule at work now. Looks like a good full shooting year for me

So I had the transmission blow a seal last summer and repaired under warrenty. It never did run right after that and they had trouble making it duplicate as they refused to drive it enough to heat it up. New fluid swapped in novermber so still to cold for it to really make the noise. Just a few days ago on the first nice day in a long time when it hit 75 degrees and a long drive it messes up. I take it in to them and was basically im not picking it up till you duplicate it. The ended up running it on the rack till it heated up enough to cause the problem again and said it needed to be replaced. brand new 3600 dollar transmission getting put in, total out of pocket ZERO dollars Oh, It hit their lot with 119,998 miles on a 120k transmission warranty. Car would drive still but AAA towed it the last few miles to the shop. I even had the service manager come out to verify the mileage as it was dropped off the flat bed.