PopPop

I'm using them in my SP01 with no issues. I have an 11# mainspring and a Cajun Gun Works extended firing pin. The cups on the primers I am using are brass colored and seem to be softer than the old silver ones. You do have to make sure you seat them well.

Tiny keyboard, big thumbs. Should have read "6", not "5". Not sure what Matt put in. IIRC the spring was clipped. Replaced it with a 13#, too heavy so I put in the 11.5 & Ext FP from CGW. No scale to check but it feels the same.

Just over 5 by Matt Mink. Added an ext FP from CGW and all SP primers (even wolf and Tula) are good to go.

G24 limited gun has had Dawson adjustable rear on it for 3+ years of steady use. No issues. Spare parts might never get used but would be good to have in the range bag.

+1 for Steel1212's comment. No matter how you prep for stages, make sure it's consistent. Not so much what you do but how repeatable you do it.

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If you are want cast bullets Bulletworks in Breckinridge, TX offers excellent bullets at a reasonable price. Call there and talk to Artie Mitchell. It's a small shop and there may be some wait time but she will get you fixed up.

I use the same technique as Dezman & MoNsTeR. Works really well with the quick spinning star we have at our club. I worked on stages with stars @ level ll's and am amazed at how many shooters are intimidated by it. Some folks will fire 5+ rnds, move on and take any mikes. Others will chase those plates with mag after mag. I find that if it starts to go south the shooters that survive the star will take a second, reset and clean up the plates they missed.

Thanks for the fix BE!

Me too.

I like to name them but after3+ years of monthly stage design I have to say its becoming difficult to pull up unique names. I've used 1,2,3... On occasion. Another club I've shot with uses colors, Red, Blue, etc.

Ordered a case of 135's around the first of Feb. and got them 8 weeks later just as Donnie told me when I ordered them. Call him and be patient. He will get your bullets to you.

I have used Decot shooting glasses for many years and I really like that I can easily change each lens for specific needs, prescription and color. For the last few years I've been using their Revel model. Over 50 hear also so for pistol shooting I have left lens cut for distance and right cut for front sight distance. Small reading bifocal in each helps when reading stage descriptions or keeping score. Call Decot before you see your eye dr and they will help figure out what you need before you get your eye exam. Great folks and product.

Space City Challenge in Friendswood (south side of Houston) April 19-21. Level II, 8 stages, 200+ rounds. More info at 'texassouthsection.com'.

Dawson here too on my 24. Front is .100 wide FO.

Make the port larger than you think it should normally be, 50% or so. being constrained to shoot thru it will make it seem a lot smaller. Framing the opening with no shoots will help but ultimately expect that all props downrange of the muzzle are a consumable.

I got the same trial packs and so far my Shadow prefers the 135gr. I was out of n320 so I loaded up some titegroup that i had on hand. A little smoke but not like using lead or molys, like shooting exposed lead base FMJ's. Really pleased with how well they group, so I ordered a case last week. Donnie said 5-7 weeks.

Thanks for the heads up. Got some ordered. It took 2 hours to get the confirmation email. They gotta be busy busy!

Just finished 1K Wolfs. A little harder than Win or CCI but reliable. Only time I had lite strike issues in my Glock was occasionally when the striker channel needs to be cleaned.

Another vote for the Fulcrum.

I know what all my reloading friends and relatives will be getting for birthdays this year!!! (Me too!!!)

+1 on the bolts all the way thru the 2x4. If the surface the rear bolt goes thru is a composite like particle board or MDF you might consider putting a large dia. Fender washer on the underside to reinforce that connection.

Seems like I've always got a new stage or prop design floating around in my head.

We mostly use marks for toes/heels on fault lines, marks on walls for hands, hands on door handle or grasping port or barricade as start positions. We use shooting boxes for classifiers or when we need to define shooting locations and don't have enough vision barriers to do it at our local matches.

I'm set up for monovision, right handed so distant vision in the left eye and the right eye corrected for front sight distance.