Loves2Shoot

I've bent up some pouches using standard pvc sheet plastic and a heat gun. It works very well and you're local plastic supplier should have it in stock.

Lucky dog!!! They are great guys and having world class shooters tweak your techniques is a great experience. I know I've learned a ton rom the few world class guys I've got to practice with one on one. Time and money well spent.

Do you find that you shoot high as your gun empties when you shoot it? Ive never noticed a difference, even when I was messing around with heavy versus light guide rods. We're all unique

BE's book is the only MUST have book I've read. It took my shooting to anohter level immediately. I think Jerry Barnhard's videos are the best as far as breaking down the technical aspects of shooting. Saul Kirsh's video of the Natioanls is very good also. The interview with BE on Matt's DVD was worth the price of the the DVD. DVC

EOTech

19 rounds here, speed shoots 15. Part of stage management is making sure you have extra rounds "in case." I'm not a believer of not doing a reload to "save" time. If you have a step you can reload, if not practice

Erik, Nice job!!! Where is that M?

Jake sorry if I stepped on your toes. I said "lightning" draws are overated, not fast draws. This is my logic: A 1 second draw at 10 - 15 yards isn't easy. It is fast. It is the average draw time of the BEST shooters in the world for limited sights, according to two people I know who have finished in the top 5 at the World shoots in recent years. .8 Draws at mid ranges are awesome. A C in .8 sec has the same value as an A in 1 sec and if you can hit the A every time in .8 you've just gain 1 point, if you can only do it in 1 second you've only lost 1 point. The risk factor of getting a D just doesn't compute at that speed at a mid range distance. Of course if you can do a .8 EVERY TIME, do it That means to me you should be able to do .5-.6 dry fire draws as in my experementing a solid draw live fire take me about .2-.3 more than in dry fire. There is a lot to practice in this sport. Draws, reloads, transitions, movement, strong hand, weekhand, prone, kneeling, moving targets, and so much more. I think that as you improve you have to prioritize the value of each skill. There is only so much time to practice for each person. So prioritzing your practice time is very important. That is why I believe "lightning" fast draws are overated for winning in this game. From the experience I have, transitions and setup time are where matches are won and lost not draws and splits. I was not trying to belittle "lighting" draws and splits by saying they are overated. I personally have put more energy into working on draws, spilts, and reloads that looking back I would have spent focusing on having a more well rounded game. Do what you want you feel best and what fits you best, that way you have no doubts about your game when you step to the line DVC ~ Scott

Ditto what Steve said. I would take a solid A in 1.1 any time. Lighting draws are highly overated and solid ones win mathces.

Nice post. There are a lot of life leasons to be learned from shooting and vice versa.

No rule that I know of. Hopefully Sedro would deal with the offend appropriately if the situation was brought to light. That being said, I don't think you should have seprate classification for L and L10. I think the classification should be the SAME, period. This from someone who made M in L10 first.

Mall ninja cool factor.

15 yards upper A zone 6 shots six seconds. Fixed time. If you can't do it at 15 move up until you can do it 3 times in a row, then start moving back.

Nice Light rails are a must

Reloaded a ton of them in .40 and a ton in .38 super. In rifles it can be badddd. The nickle will flake off and at the high pressures it can cause damage. I just toss the ones that are flaking.

I don't know if it is the weight or the way the tungsten absorbs the energy differently, but it is soft and flat (as flat as any open gun.) Combine that with the Recoil master and a 14lb main spring I don't see a downside for the way I like a gun to feel. Some say its slower to transition, but you couldn't prove it to me. My transitions today on 5" square plates 1' apart at 7 yards were .2 to.23. Not the .14's that Jake is going for, but acceptable for me I use a KKM and it is super accurate (It will bust clay pidgeons at 45 yards all day long.) I would defintely shoot one if you can and see if you like the feel. It is almost like shooting minor

Sprinco's are reliable, but none of the guide rods really "reduce" recoil. Sprinco's have a unique recoil impulse so I would try one first.

Master - Limited, L10 It depends, everyday I touch a gun for about the last 4 years. Live fire varies. Before a big match I'll shoot every day 50-250 rounds for 2-3 weeks before the match. I shot 40-50K rounds a year for 3 years, (in 03 I sent over 75+K rounds into the dirt) now I think I'm at a point I don't think I "need" to shot as many rounds, or I just don't see the return so I don't spend the $$$. Religious dry fire has been much more helpful then even shooting every day. I did do that for 4 months straight once. It really helped me shoot more relaxed, but I noticed I got lazy with sending rounds downrange, and that's not good. What you do in practice you will do in a match

It isn't hard it's the only way I see it for me it is weird to see only one image. It is just the way people are made different.

ROFL Just the other day I was thinking must be the only fool with bullets taped to his primer follower

If you want a trick try this When you see your sight lift (or in dry fire, hear the buzzer) look at the mag you want to grab (gasp) Let me know how it goes for you I'm try to make my shooting 100% visual. And of course you don't "need" to look, but it doesn't take any more time and it gets the weakhand moving fast.

It isn't hard. I've shown many people that "trick" as a way to convince them they don't need an iron grip with their strong hand, no one has droped a gun yet, although I do it with only one round in the gun generally, just in case someone gets scared. Matt will fix you up right. There is no need (in my opinion) to follow the front sight through recoil. You just need to see it jump and then go to the next shot. THe front sight generally will be in front of your face, where it goes in the instance of recoil isn't really important info, where it is when the shot breaks is.

Not likely. You probably need someone who knows what they are doing to watch you. More likely you are doing something else. I can hold any of my guns with my left hand ONLY and depress the trigger with my right finger and they will hit where they should, and the gun does what it should. Most people don't get the right grip with their left hand. Limp wristing the gun can be fixesd easily with the proper grip, not much strength required, only proper technique. Make sure the left wrist is totally locked out, that is the key to a strong, relaxed grip.

I would even worry about comping a .40 if you want to shoot it in open. The dot is what makes open fast not the comp.