L9X25

What features do you want or need?

We are about the same, I run 5.1 and am just over 1400 for 133PF. My napkin math tells me that we are both about 28FPS per 10th of a grain.

I am a believer in the light bullet & slow powder method. I tuned the gun to work with the light weight projectiles and it feels great and is flat. WSF is cleaner than HS6, but it is faster too. Curious to see how that works out for you. Next match you can run a few of mine through your rifle and see how they feel/compare for a point of reference.

Curious how dirty HS6 will be at these pressures, was never a really clean powder at Major pressures. I have been shooting 5.1 of WSF with the 95's and have been pretty happy.

I somewhat disagree with you on this, I don't think it is visual because we really can't see the mag going into the magwell at all. Since we are pretty much doing the reload from "muscle memory", without having our strong had as a reference like in a 1911, we need as much margin for error as possible. Since we rarely reload during a match, most people don't practice doing them very much to develop perfect accuracy. With the magwell in place, I can slightly miss the opening in the receiver and the magwell will correct me and guide it to the opening smoothly. I can focus on making the angle of the incoming mag correct and the magwell takes care of the rest. I had several severely botched reloads on classifiers before installing the magwell, and none since.

Since the magwell only guides the mag to the magwell that is built-in to the lower, it usually does not contact the mag once it is within the lower receiver. There is a pretty wide gap between the magwell and mag, once the mag is seated, and that is the reason I was encouraging you to try it in the match.

It's not that unpredictable, it is usually at the worst possible time and place. Usually somewhere where there are no spare pins to be had, and lots of prizes to be won.

Remember, you always modify (grind on) the cheap part. Unless you paid more for that magwell than I expect, you would grind on the magwell, not the QC10 lower silly.?

What a total chicken ... slap that damn thing on and do 5 practice reloads. If they slide in cleanly and drop free, you are good to go. If not, break out the Dremel and try it again. This is not a new trigger group and you are not competing for a Cadillac.

If you have 20k, I would consider that a pretty good run for any trigger, but it does not look like it is "worn out" and should have more life to give. Mine has been 100% with the yellow spring with my rifle primers in the 9mm, and obviously fine on pistol primers too.

You might flatten out the top of the sear to see if the "nick" is forcing the sear to ride a little lower on the bottom of the hammer. With how little clearance we have between the disconnector and the hammer, it would not take much to cause the problem that you are having. Not sure that you have the yellow spring on that hammer (not that it has anything to do with your problem) and that could lighten the pull some.

It just proves my point ... cleaning is over-rated! I get lazy with cleaning the AR, and just resort to blasting it with brake cleaner and then lubing it back up (not taking anything apart). That usually works, but crud can build up on the bottom of the trigger and hammer and that area is not hit by the brake clean. From time to time, when I feel the travel decreasing, I have to pull the pins and clean the trigger thoroughly. My powder builds up and can get the consistency of concrete in places not reached with the solvent.

I clean my guns every 10 years, or when they stop working, so you will get no judgement from me.

Make sure nothing is building up at either of the red arrow locations. Sorry for the 3rd grade paint work.

If the clearance is getting tighter, that is not wear. That is likely some "grunge" building up in front of the lower hammer hook and holding the trigger/sear partially back. Pull the hammer and make sure nothing is caking up on the hammer or top of the sear.

Is the clearance between the disconnect and hammer hook increasing or decreasing?

The only thing that controls where the triggers sits before the hammer is cocked is the sear rubbing on the bottom of the hammer. You might check the top of the flat area of the sear, and the diameter on the bottom of the hammer, to see if there is some wear on either of those locations. I usually put some of the grease on that area, along with the hammer and disconnect hooks, every time I clean the trigger area. I have not experienced wear on either of the high round count triggers that have.

It "could" be how you set up the timing to begin with. I had a new recently factory installed trigger to use as a reference, so I just copied their clearance exactly. I set the disconnect so that it would have about .0000000001" clearance between the hammer hook and the disconnect with the trigger at rest. Any amount of pull would cause an interference. I would guess that either the disconnector hook or hammer hook has worn or peened slightly. I would inspect them with magnification and replace the bad item. I think they are both cheap to replace (if you had to pay) and JP would likely replace the part for free.

I usually cut a few coils and polish the plunger tip on all of my builds, I don't care for a 10 pound pull on my safety and take down pins. I prefer a smoother actuation of the safety. With the low profile, the lever slips between your hand and the receiver, with the short & low, it is not really long enough to reach my finger to get under it. I am able to engage/disengage the safety easily with either lever, but it would obviously be a little harder if you have a very difficult safety to operate. I am not too familiar with safeties other than the JP and Milspec, but I really like the way the JP is adjustable to any trigger. You merely adjust the set screw to match whatever you have in the gun and it will fit perfectly.

The JP safety has interchangeable levers that can be gotten with different lengths and widths to suit your preference, and levers can go on either side. Say I sell my gun to a lefty, he can swap my levers so that the small one in on the left side. They also come in several colors if that matters.

On most 1911 guns, the firing pin spring absorbs the full impact of the firing pin when dry firing. They are usually driven to coil bind and that can lead to premature failure. On the AR9 bolts that I have seen, the firing pin bottoms out on the bolt and that saves a lot of work for the spring, at the expense of the firing pin itself. I would speculate that an AR9 firing pin return spring should last a lot longer than it's 1911 counterpart.

He's definitely smarter than he looks!

I honestly felt that the Hiperfire striking force was, at least, somewhat to blame, then broke my pin with a JP trigger with the reduced power hammer spring. That spring is not even powerful enough to consistently set off military primers.

I think that is the key, that and making sure you are impacting the center of the pin.

Taccom makes some extra-long springs that you can cut to size. They will work for over 60 rounds, so you might cut a few coils for 41. I use them on all of my extended mags.