MemphisMechanic

Make it a shorter movement if you can’t slow it down. Put the popper on one side of a barrel then the DT on the oppsite side; a barrel right up in your face requires 2-3 feet of movement to see around. A good rule of thumb is to design something like this so that a C-class can hit the target after the movment if he takes the popper last. It’s then up to the M class guy to decide how many targets he takes between the popper and the activated target. If your state requires a-class hustle to get a glimpse at the DT, you’re doing it wrong.

DPP 2.5 MOA. Super bright dot that appears much larger at full brightness. Turn it down for super precise shot placement. The triangle is an unneeded gimmick.

Incorrect. It’s your wrist. If your grip is going it’s job, both hands and the gun are a nearly solid unit. Get your wrists (by getting your hands) as high on the gun as is ergonomicslly reasonable. Watch your gun recoil in slow motion on video. Better yet, that of a winning shooter.

Stop spreading vile, filthy lies. There is no too high, as long as the hammer doesn’t make you bleed.

You’ll be fine. Leave it out if you like.

Thank you, captain obvious. I was one detent spring short at the time. Run a mag slap it back in run a mag slap it back in.

It always cycles to front of word on iphone. You continually have to fix errors with each link. If you miss the jump because you’re watching the keyboard: This scentence is supposed to have the word at the end of it reloading. (fixed version: this scentence is supposed to have the word reloading at the end of it.) The moment you hit the spacebar after “reloading” it puts the cursor before “reloading” or “gun” or whatever. THAT is what everyone is complaining about. It’s horrible.

I ran 5,000 winchesters through my 650 without any issues. They often tend to be slightly ovaled - they’re more likely to crush going into a round hole, or jam my vibraprime - but the press itself fed them flawlessly. That said, CCIs are where it’s at if you don’t have a gun setup with really light hammer/striker springs. Fairly cheap. Dead nuts round. Feed like federals, but much harder to set off in the press. Easy to find. 100% reliable if your gun hits hard like a stock one would.

Yeah, they’d all be flat; that’s crucial to their actual use. I recall @PrimaryBruce saying they cut the gun with a slope for exactly this reason. At least, I think it was Bruce.

Grab a cheap set of feeler gauges from the autoparts store. Cut the .003” or .005” one off and make yourself a *steel* rear shim out of it. Drill it for the retaining bosses, even.

The video is meaningless. At least until it’s shot by someone when it isn’t oversprung from the factory, and it is held by someone who can actually grip a gun decently. (Referring to that second oscillation that’s occuring.) Compare this to the above:

Nope. No idea why they chose (or had made?) that particular LPA instead of using the model off, say, the Tanfoglio Stock 2/3. That’s also an LPA and has an awesome blade on it. Since they were already going with custom cuts into an adapater plate they could have used that, or a 1911 Bomar cut or something.

Yes, the steel frame gun loses the squareish corners at the top of the backstrap underneath the back of the slide. Can somewhat see it here:

It goes pretty quickly, and the sight picture is fantastic afterward. Run a tall Dawson .190 to .210 ish front blade, or you’ll have a good bit of the slide in the sight picture.

Learn to come completely off the trigger face when shooting super close hoser arrays. That’s my approach with a short crisp trigger that promotes trigger freeze. If your finger nearly bounces off the front of the trigger guard between shots you will never fail to reset it. There is no reason to ride the trigger, nor issue with moving the gun offtarget, when shooting at 3 yds.

You can slowly and carefully file the rear notch quite a bit deeper. I took the “step” off the bottom so it’s the depth of the screw head all the way through. It worked great and your sight picture very much resembles a Dawson rear’s now.

They arent complaining about the links being created. That’s fine. The cursor bumping BEFORE the word is the bug we’re talking about. That is not supposed to be happening, it doesn’t happen on other forums using this software. As you type words are linked behind you, seamlessly. That’s how it’s supposed to work.

@3Dflyer lawman is very accurate but also loaded extremely hot to mimic police duty loads. It has quite a bit of recoil.

That’s heavily dependent on shooter and gun weight and how you have it sprung. In a metal gun with 9mm minor, a lot of us A classes and above prefer 124s. The gun’s just really sluggish with 147s, and the better your grip gets developed the less recoil impulse affects you in general.

You will feel only a small difference in recoil between 138 and 125ish power factor with the same powder and bullet. People make far too much of this on the interent. A couple flakes of powder could have floated out of that case as it was indexed, or the chrono read it incorrectly. Who knows? It happens. A lot. Don’t worry about it. Personally I prefer to load closer to 133-137 power factor - although guys like @Hi-Power Jack will often suggest shooting for 130ish. You cannot feel the slightest bit of difference between 130 and 135pf. Try it. Load 0.4 and 0.2 grains lighter than your current load, which should end up around 130 and 135ish PF, and go shoot them. Not just over the chrono either. Burn 4 of each into the berm out of a magazine rapid fire. See what you can feel.

Blues are .355, and nearly everything else is .356 unless you order a specific diameter. I personally prefer handling the blue bullet’s coating to hitek, after they recently changed it to precent you from getting smurf fingers. They lead comps in PCCs the least out of all the coated brands we’ve run locally.

Yes. That’s what I’ve been running. A tight 23(+1, if needed) to start, and 22 easily reloadable. You’ll have to grind the tab off the follower that locks the gun open but it works great otherwise. There’s a recipe I was just turned on to by another shooter which uses a Canik mag tube and apparently gets you a reloadable 23. I haven’t tried it, and don’t know how “reloadable” it is. 23 in a Walther/TTI/Grahams320 recipe is reloadable, if you drive it in hard and distract yourself from the stage plan to ensure that it’s seated. With 22 in them the click into place as easily as a factory mag. The recipe suggested is below. I’m 125fmj, and he hasn’t returned to answer my questions yet:

Use an image resizing app and shrink them to 900x900 or smaller.

@NPDriver when you figure it out, post a photo. I want to see what your solution is once it’s proven itself.