MemphisMechanic

You're filing a little off the ledge on the "thumb button side" of the magazine release, so the spring can push the entire thing further out the left side of the gun. The button sits up a bit higher under your thumb, and the opposite side (which they posted a photo of) ends up slightly below flush... which causes the ledge that retains the magazine to protrude farther into the magwell. All you need is a file.

You're worried about it because you're thinking about it wrong. Thumbing the hammer down, or pinching it and easing it down, both rely on some sort of grip to restrain the hammer. . Instead, place your thumbnail between the hammer and slide, depress the trigger, and slowly roll your thumb out of the way: As foolproof as anything else you can do involving a firearm. This method puts your body between the firing pin and hammer, instead of behind it trying to hold it back. It also works great with gloves on.

The simplest solution is that USPSA has always rigidly enforce the 180 rule regarding muzzle discipline, and you can't do that with an uprange start.

Obviously you're pulling the barrel out of the gun and dropping loaded rounds into it, not stuffing them in a mag and racking them in one by one...

When shooting at a major match, the ultimate case gauge is your gun's chamber. For a state championship or higher-level match? Every single round I plan to shoot there gets run through the chamber. It has to spin freely and the primer has to be below flush, or it goes in the 'practice' pile for later use. Since I started doing that, I've never, ever had a malfunction at a large match. If my gun isn't acting right, that's the kind of quality control I'm going to do to the ammo I feed it. If it doesn't go bang? It has got to be insufficient firing pin force or defective primers.

If you chamber check 100 rounds and they all spin freely when dropped into the barrel, they're loaded short enough for your chamber. Reaming it won't likely gain you much. If you're loaded too long for your barrel & bullet combination, however, and your hammer strike is driving the bullet into the rifling instead of encountering a case sitting squarely against the front of the chamber...

Does the ammo you're using pass the plunk & spin tests? All of it?

I do want to chronicle what drops the trigger weight, and by how much. Hadn't thought about doing polishing step by step. That sounds like a lot of work. But it also sounds interesting. Dammit. We will see how motivated I get to reassemble and check vs just continuing to dremel everything while it's all out!

Factory SA and DA trigger pull weights, for those curious.

Picked the S-III up (finally!) from my FFL tonight. In checking things over I noticed something. Everything I read on here led me to expect conventional rifling... Not so much. Huh. Well... no cheap improperly-sized bullets for me. Good thing I shoot hitek coated ones from BBI. Did they switch at some point?

Spend $39 on a two-piece belt from Shooters Connection.

I'm hoping to see a trend in the coming months where those of us building new guns don't bother to install an aftermarket pin from him or EGD... Since the Henning doesn't have enough mass and the EGD one is nearly identical to the one your gun comes with. I'm going to try out a factory pin and hammer along with a bolo and 1-pc sear, polish, and an assortment of PD springs. It will be interesting to see what I wind up with from my "50% baller" trigger job. If the pull weights are... kinda nice, single action is... kinda short... but trigger very very smooth then I will be happy! I want something I can shoot well. After that I'm gonna stop tinkering and go get better.

The mental cue I give new shooters to keep them straight: Tactical Sequence has that key "S" and it stands for "Skipping around while shooting things." (1-1-2-1-1 or similar) It's stupid and/or childish sounding but it really sticks in your head. If it doesn't specify tactical SEQUENCE the you're either shooting near-to-far, or slicing the pie if they've stuck a wall between the targets and your position.

http://www.technologystudent.com/equip1/vernier2.htm Refer to the second animation. It'll seem insanely obvious once you see it.

Except we have no idea what they'll look like, right? For all we know, they'll be even thinner than the aluminum EGD ones...

If your ammo is as consistent as typically hoped for, then you can do the old "load to 170 so you have cushion" thing and be okay. There's some padding there for a cold day and a chrono at a major match which is slower than yours. If you have a high standard deviation (widely varying velocities) then you may need to load over 170 to ensure you make major with every single bullet they might chrono. And recall too ... that you'll want to experiment to see which load results in the least dot movement - 170 will produce less gass to work the comp than 174 and thus there *might* be less muzzle flip at a higher power factor.

On the IDPA classifier at that skill level, you can peel most of that time off with more efficient gun handling skills. There are a lot of draws, turning draws, and reloads in there that can easily account of most of that time. ...And dry firing on those will bring your first shot time down considerably, as that's a key element of practicing the draw. How many points do you drop and on which stages? You need to shoot stage 1 with only a few -1's, and stage 2 as well.

They have them advertised on the bottom of the Tanfo website as coming soon, but have no plans to stock them. Makes complete sense.

Load a few dummy rounds up! At 1.135, 1.145. 1.160... If the round drops into the barrel, spins freely, and falls out easily when you flip it over? You're still clear of the rifling. Repeat until one drags on the rifling when you drop it in and try to spin it, and then keep all of your ammo a few thousandths shorter than that. Remember also that the shoulder of that particular bullet profile is what is hitting the rifling. A narrow pointy 115gr bullet can be loaded quite a bit longer in the same barrels than a short fat 147gr, for example. The tip isn't what limits your length - until the round gets too long to fit in your Mags, anyway.

You'll find they're really simple to build with a few feet of angle iron.

Can be moveable. Doesn't have to be. This was a KISS design used at short distances on an indoor range, so I set it for a faster swing and welded it down solid.

I think you'll find that a lot more shooters are going to be running hi-tek coated bullets instead of bare lead these days. What are your reasons for wanting to go with a bare lead bullet? I'm a huge fan of coated - nearly as cheap as lead and nearly as clean as jacketed.

I just want a TechWear jersey with that spiffy unicorn logo on it.

Gorgeous gun!

Treat the crimp station as if it's a "flare removal" station. The first response had it right - crimp juuuuuuust until the rim of the case is no longer flared. The wall is totally straight. Then pull the bullet and make sure you can barely see where the mouth of the case rested. There should not be a crimp in the side of the bullet. The only problem you typically find from under-crimping is that the case is still slightly belled and may not feed. All kinds of subtle feeding and accuracy issues can be caused by crimping too much.