MemphisMechanic

What he said. Damn.

Yes. Drop it just a pinch. But dont sweat this too much. Even keeping your old powder charge you will be well within safe ranges with the bullet change, unless your old load was right at book max for FMJs - which you weren't. As 9x45 said, we're not talking about a blown-up gun or a squib. Load some up, chronograph them, and tweak your way to 133-135 PF

When I've switched from FMJ to coated I've seen a velocity jump of somewhere around 3-5 power factor with a variety of powders. So... not much at all. You definitely wouldn't blow the gun up. Probably wouldn't really feel it when shooting. Personally, I would peel 0.1 - 0.2 off the charge weight and go chronograph them. As 9x45 said, we're looking at a 30-50fps range that you're concerned about, which isn't much. And Titegroup is a powder I'm a bit more comfortable experimenting with in 9mm than something like clays. It's an excellent powder for the novice action pistol shooter. Soft, but still forgiving.

I just ordered 10 containers of Prima V from Grafs: $178 with shipping and no hazmat for 11 pounds of powder is a really good deal! Thanks for the heads up!

Part of the game with dryfiring (for a novice) is understanding that your dryfire will always be 20% better and faster than your match day performance. When beginning, I'd encourage you to truly commit to heart that a 1.2 realod happening consistently with artificial stress means that you can consistently pull off a 1.8 with match stress factored in. You haven't learned to shift between practice mode (live and dry fire) and match mode yet. When you do (when you learn your match mode) your results will improve quickly simply because you remove errors and shoot consistently. Not because you get faster, but because you learn that match stress increases the likelihood of mistakes, so you learn to compensate. If you can't shoot faster than 4.5 seconds on a specific task ten times out of ten with everything on the line, then don't shoot beyond that pace for any reason unless it is practice. Learn to perform consistently without penalties... then figure out how to do it faster.

I don't like it in 9mm through a Dillon measure on my 650. The velocity variations are just too high - it's inconsistent in a way Clays, WST, Solo1000, and Titegroup never were for me. It's getting used up in bulk-loaded practice ammo - it's soft and clean enough I don't mind using it there. I won't be getting any more of it though because I want an SD that isn't in the 20s for my match ammo. See my two posts toward the end here: http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/239261-ramshot-competition-loads/#comment-2666425

Oh. I totally overlooked his "typo"

Nope, no need to flip the gun in my hand to reach the mag catch. But good point, for others to consider.

I have 15,000 CCI magnum small pistol to feed my gun. My understanding is the cup is about .05" thicker than the already hard CCI 500 flavor. This could be fun.

The 3GM videos are also very solid when it comes to outlining the fundamentals.

That will teach you to see your sights in motion, which is also a huge help. But to get the front sight to return exactly to the center of the notch? That's a function of grip pressures being balanced and learning to drive the gun back down out of recoil to the exact same spot every time. Ideally the front sight will travel only in a 100% vertical plane without any sideways motion, and return right back where it came from. That's the goal of the drills in this thread - to learn proper recoil control and how to drive the gun.

Shot calling can be done as quickly as you can pull the trigger on a fast 'burn it down' USPSA stage. Bullseye shooting is the antithesis of that form of shooting. But you can call your shots during both.

I don't mean to be critical; this is a 100% genuine question and not a criticism: As someone new to Tanfos who finds the factory S3 safety ideal to ride with his long thumbs, do you have smaller hands and/or shorter thumbs that don't reach? Or are you simply used to a lower thumb location with your grip? With a whopping 2 range trips under my belt with the gun I like the leverage my strong thumb has on the gun this way. I'm wondering if there's a USPSA scenario where I get to look forward to knocking the safety upward? Perhaps after a rushed mag change.

Especially since you have to mine it on that planet from Avatar...

That's exactly what it it looks like. $60 well saved, on 6 mags.

Heres my thread on gluing silicon carbide to the factory ones. I love how it feels and this gun is rather wide, now. http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/240814-silicon-carbide-on-factory-grips/ Bonuses: It's also one of the cheapest high-grip options. And adding the thumb groove makes it effortless for a large hand to drop the mag without shifting your grip, without reducing the "full palms" part of things.

Was there a BOLO in there too? Does the BOLO affect FPB operation at all, or is that only affected by the sear & hammer combination?

Come on guys, sarcasm better. And let me know when you come out with a tungsten Tanfo frame. I want mine up to 7 pounds so you can't even feel the recoil...

The thing to remember is that loading softer ammo isn't simply a matter of using lower and lower charge weights. Below a certain floor your charge will burn very very dirty and inconsistently. A faster burning powder is going to be above the book minimum while pushing a bullet to 130-135 power factor. A slow-burn like WSF is going to be loaded very very light and will have the above side effects. I agree 231 is one of the best powders to do everything with, and it'll do it halfway well. Just remember the old saying: "jack of all trades, master of none."

So, basically a tungsten EGD pin with the tip actually extended, like the Henning. Want.

WST is absolutely beautiful behind a 135 coated bullet. Short of getting sketchy with something like Clays or N310, it's pretty freaking soft. Slower Winchester powders like 231 or WSF will let you load faster ammo (140+ PF defensive stuff) in weights around 124gr, and they also play better with a 115gr bullet for 130ish power factor than the fast powders. But if you're thinking 124 and heavier, a faster burning powder will produce softer felt recoil. If you want to stick with the Winchester line, give WST a hard look!

And will the price be comparable to the EGD and Henning units?

So they're absent the "K9" marking on one side, but I assume the "MG" stamp on the opposite side means Mec-Gar. MecGar mags for various firearms have always been pretty well regarded - and they make the factory mags for many SIGs and Tanfoglios - so I like seeing that. You can find them for $14.99 each here: https://www.cdnnsports.com/eaa-witness-large-frame-9mm-17rd-afc-magazine-oe.html Pulling them apart, everything looks absolutely identical, from the feed lips to the followers to the number of coils on the mag springs. Anyone know if there's actually a difference? (K9 mag that came with my S3 is on the right in both images)

In general, you have plunk vs spin right, Glocked. Yes.

The best thing you can do is to travel to big matches, or successful local matches outside the driving radius that your other locals visit. Then make your matches like the ones you enjoy shooting most. Regarding experienced competitiors? Attracting them means really high quality stages that are challenging and interesting without being nearly impossible. We'll overlook rotting barricades and any number of other unattractive things for those, and no amount of shiny facilities will make someone come back to shoot from box after box because you aren't creative enough to stake down fault lines and make things fun. For new shooters, I like when we have enough to build most of a squad and set them up with a couple of experienced shooters to guide them. One newbie on a squad of As and GMs can be awfully intimidated, especially if they're cliquish and hard to approach.