MemphisMechanic

That's three straight hours of dryfire you're missing! Gasp!

Snowflakes = common monkeys that practiced, a lot, at some point.

Yes. But I'm not naming names. For the rest? You're stealing my thunder. "Stop polishing things and practice!" has been my battle cry up to this point. (Dryfiring like mad with a 7lb DA has done wonders for my trigger control, btw.) Also... in case you aren't aware, some of the people in here who are fond of polishing and super sexy triggers (@Twinkie and @waktasz come to mind) happen to be GMs.

I know what he's getting at. I've done dryfire mag changes for 20 minutes a night, all but two nights, for the past two weeks. I'm just being difficult... But this is by far the hardest magwell to hit on any gun I've competed with.

I'll be right back. I'm gonna go tell all the Limited guys on here to take their magwells off and simply do more dryfire if they want to win.

Quiet. I CAN GRIND THINGS. If this sucker can go from one of the hardest Production guns to load, to one of the easiest? I don't see a reason to pass on that opportunity.

Mine is getting roughed in with a carbide deburring bit in a pneumatic die grinder to begin. The third one from left in this image will probably be my choice: ...Then shaped with a hand file, and finally smoothed out with a dremel later tonight. Stay tuned. I'll post pics.

That's okay. My gun isn't IDPA legal anyway. If I end up building a Lim Pro and occasionally shooting in IDPA, the goal will be to have improved enough to go for the Overall Domination title. (Which is still a low bar) So ESP/SSP is largely irrelevant.

...or sell a modified "Super Titan" with the hooks cut in your shop?

I'm a production guy. I'll defer to the Limited shooters on that one.

Don't spend the extra $$$ on the Xtreme model, when you buy your gun. Go for the standard flavor and do the trigger yourself.

Okay! We have the official clarified interpretation of DNROI below. Time me to make my gun half an ounce lighter. She has a date with a carbide burr in a die grinder, later this evening.

I assume, as he said, that you had to grind on the Bolo to fit it with your delta hammer?

National championship titles have been won with both bullets out and bullets forward. Forward is a more natural motion that's faster to learn. Out lets you stack you mags closer together but still have access. Pick one and practice.... tens of thousands of times. Regarding hand speed, my local 16 year old Master who is a diehard "dryfire addict" has a 0.95 load that looks like this: Faster hands (moving comfortably at a speed higher than you can possibly make yourself go) ... and a much, much shorter pause at the magwell. He has almost completely eliminated it, actually. I'm currently working on my own hand speed, just like you are. The faster you get the new mag up and headed into the bottom of the magwell, the more time you have to align things and still hit your load cleanly in the desired time. Start with a par time you can barely hit, and slowly inch it down as you improve. Im also a big fan of ending each session with some "hero or zero" reps once you're warmed up. Go absolutely as fast as you can, and try to learn to clean it up over time.

@Heyman2 before you move past it, keep in mind that while the objective in a bill drill is to shoot all A's... your run with a Charlie isn't a disaster in a match. Doing the math: 30pts / 2.61 = 11.4943 hit factor 28pts / 2.48 = 11.2903 hit factor That's far from a disaster on match day; those scores are *really* close. Yes, alphas always beat Charlies. But too many newer minor shooters are so afraid of occasionally dropping a Charlie that they shoot far too slowly and conservatively to win. Don't be afraid to push so hard that you shoot an occasional C. That's how you shoot faster. On your reload, absolutely fly when trying to snap your weak hand with mag, and the gun with dropped mag, together in front of your chest. Most of the reload occurs with the weak hand. And that pause at the magwell is about 1/4 second of dead time - it takes dryfire reps to hit the magwell quickly and cleanly.

More recoil spring? Is the slide is slamming into the back of the frame violently, perhaps?

Buy ghost pouches first. For $23 you get bullets out and bullets forward, both. I'm a lefty and can vouch that they work just fine for production. The same mag pouches work for Glock, CZ, M&P, and Tanfoglio. Which is pretty slick.

I fully agree actually - a grip panel with the Henning checkering (loved mine for that. They had BITE) and the shape of the Scales would be immensely popular. I'm hoping the Patriot or LOK grips fulfill that need!

It's amazing to me how many people are suddenly wanting to shoot Welfare Open Minor - now that Carry Optics is a full mag capacity division. Personally the 10rd limit of production is one of my favorite things about the division. Round count math, and reloading speed are huge strategy & skill factors. I had no idea that many people hated relaoding more than once!

Or checker them by hand with a file. I went that route and they're great, but someone on here was whining they're not pretty enough.

Slide glide on everything in warmer weather. Below mid 50s temps? I switch to a thin weight oil on the slide rails and barrel (all things that reciprocate when the gun cycles) but leave slide glide on hammer/sear/etc in the action year 'round. As long as you believe in moderation and don't pack the frame with so much grease that it slows the hammer down when it's near freezing outside. Which oil... doesn't matter terribly. A quart of a good synthetic 5/30 motor oil is a lifetime supply. Just refill the nifty needle-oiler container of that high dollar gun oil you bought when you were new, over and over. Thats worked well on Tanfoglio, M&P, and Glock.

Novice IDPA shooter had an old-school flip phone in a holder in front of his mags. First stage I saw him grip the phone. Stop himself, and then load a mag. I meant to say something to him and forgot to. On the next stage? Well, that particular phone explodes in a spectacular array of covers, screens, and batteries when it meets the frame of a 1911 at speed.

I'd gladly trade you for the wider ones and carve yours up to fit my hands, if I didn't shoot Production!

My sight came loose once and I applied red loctite and have been keeping an eye on it. When I intiially installed it my bottle of red had dried up, and I forgot to apply it before shooting it twice. If it comes loose again, I'm making a short divot where it lands with my drill press.

Yes. But not for keeping the gun in that condition. It's safer to be hammer-on-slide if the gun is dropped. In case of a mechanical failure of the sear-to-hammer fit (those surfaces wear, particularly in Tanfos) or an oprator's thumb slipping off the hammer just before it reaches the full-cock notch, you won't get a surprise bang.