MemphisMechanic

A useful reason to make an announcement to your competitiors that there won't be day-early setup anymore, at the request of the range. "Set up time is 8am. We will walkthrough and shoot as soon as the stages are complete. I'm heading out there to set up a classifier and six short courses full of stronghand / weakhand stand-and-shoots. If you enjoy field courses, come start setting one up before I get to that bay."

Precisely my own feelings as well. I'd like to see this explicitly worded in the rule book or at least in the NROI rule clarifications section of the USPSA website.

Using what kind(s) of ammunition?

Does the overtravel screw live up inside the frame? It doesn't have an "in the trigger" overtravel screw like the factory one does.

There's a simpler test than I described with the writings above: Hammer cocked, ensure the firing pin stops cold if pushed forward 1/4" or so, with a small punch. Pull the trigger slowly until it's in a point where the hammer will just barely fall, hold the hammer back with your thumb, and keep the trigger in that position. You should be able to push the firing pin all the way through without it catching on the block

After watching your Vimeo video, I'm intrigued... If you take the FPB out of the slide and reassemble the gun, can you safe it with the hammer down? That's the only test left that I can think of to make certain it can't possibly be anything else.

He phrased it so it sounded like figure 2 in little series of photos was illegal. You could only reshape the inside of the existing opening. So I drew up the "figure 1/2/3" drawing and emailed it to him. His reply is included in that email exchange. He didn't see anything illegal in any of those photos. Or what the SIG guys were doing. The Sevigny Speedway is explicitly included, which turns a Glock into this: (Recall how the back of the magwell used to be a straight plastic wall, which people saw the need to invent a plug for)

The confusing thing has been "externally flared" used in several of these talks. I was worried that widening the mouth of the magwell was external flaring. Since... well... you're doing it to an outside surface of the gun. What is ACTUALLY considered "external flaring" is something like heating up the sides of the gun and bending them outward to form a magwell out of a previously flat frame - actually turning the bottom of the gun into a funnel shape. The profile of the gun must be unchanged. I sent DNROI a link to this topic in SIG forum showing similar modifications to what we're doing. He checked it and said that this was completely okay:

Pay for my FFL so that people can ship me frames, and I'll gladly do yours for free? Troy specifically stated opening the magwell front to rear was good to go, and that the Sevigny Speedway was legal. 1) This is the exact equivalent to a sevigny speedway for a metal frame. Just go Google what that Glock modification looks like and you'll see. 2) Opening the magwell front to rear was specifically OK'd. Since there's not really any need to do so side-to-side and all of the grinding is in front of and behind the opening, that works out great for us.

The stock 3 is a 5" gun. (4.92" actually...) I was typing correctly.

For being so new, that's not bad at all! I know two guys who made it to M within one year of their first match, but both of them were absolutely addicted to dryfire and live fire practice... ...But most guys meander around in C class for the first few years. You're well ahead of average. Personally, after three years off from shooting, my own goal is to make M in 2017. That equates to an 11% improvement and buying the Tanfo was part of my desire for a fresh reboot.

I undersold the improvement a bit in my initial post. Let's just say that.

This. The BOLO doesn't push the hammer back quite as far as the original disconnector, but it's supposed to be pretty close. Might need to fit it as shown in the BOLO instructions that @PatriotDefense posted. The BOLO is not usually something you can install with a Delta hammer without requiring fitting.

There's some clays info in here... For coated 130, which isn't quite what you asked for. But it's another data point to help give you an idea where to start.

@57K my results in 9mm with Ramshot comp were less than satisfactory. No amount of precision loading would give me a standard deviation of less than 18-23. This was beneath 124 and 135gr bullets. I'm not the only one who had that problem. I moved on to Prima V, and use up my remaining RS Comp when loading large batches of practice ammo.

My Prima V came from batch no PB15110. 3.0gr under a 147 gets me 132 PF from a 5" poly-rifled Tanfoglio.

What is your member number? End up making it into B?

You should be able to engage the safety with the hammer down, at half cock, and fully cocked. Fitting the underside of the leg on the sear *should* be the only variable involved here. Easy test: try to drop the hammer and safe the gun with the slide removed

Yes. The frame and slide in stainless, the controls and grips in black. Around 10 minutes for the initial shaping, then another 20 mins perhaps with a hand file and small sanding disk to smooth it out. As mentioned above, a carbide deburring bit in an air grinder removes metal very quickly. If you're stuck with sanding drums and a Dremel or something similar? Probably an hour or two.

Taking that further, if you keep your CO mags with a friend who brings them to the local matches and takes them home with him, you could shoot full-capacity there too. You can own standard cap mags in a friendly state, they just can't travel into CT.

That should be done on every Tanfo, yes. Round the bottom of the breechface and confirm there aren't any burrs to be found on the extractor or at the firing pin hole.

Exactly. Switching to Tanfo hurt my matches for a few months. Hell, I still can't attack hoser stages the way I did with the M&P without trigger freeze... But it really really made me want to dryfire like mad and get better. New toys are more fun to play with.

@kneelingatlas I got crystal-clear permission from DNROI before carving up the frame of a $900 gun:

Yeah. Degreasing the frame and threads really well then applying a few drops of red loctite to the grip where it locks into the frame, and on the screw? That did the trick. I'm using SSI Scales 2 now, though. They haven't worked loose in dryfire. I haven't shot with them yet

Pneumatic die grinder. Carbide deburring bit. A few passes with a hand file. Poof! ...Instant production GM! I threw a few magazines at my gun from the next zipcode over, while blindfolded. They all went right in. On a serious note? The loads where you crash into the frame do not go any better. You still have to hit your target. The loads where you hit the opening, but weren't perfectly square and the magazines would bind up and jam as soon as the feed lips disappeared into the frame? Those go in, now.