MemphisMechanic

One should be fine. It only has to be strong enough to withstand the “crushing” force you can generate with one finger.

My guess is you’re gripping the gun hard enough to cause the plastic grip to apply pressure to the magazine and cause it to rub the trigger bar. Sound plausible? Coat suspect parts in sharpie then test the gun. You’ll see where things are rubbing.

Put it in a drill and spin it against something abrasive... or the running head of a Dremel tool. Or just buy a $5 metal file and do it by hand.

Grind the tip of your Dillon die’s decapping pin to a point and it’ll never do that again. A very well-known fix that works superbly.

@RH45 I looked them up, and they’re not too different. Place JB Weld on the frame block here, or a weld on the back of the trigger bar, and file it down until the trigger can move rearward just enough to break. Then give it another 1/32” or so of travel for reliability’s sake:

I have not seen the internals of a 2.0 On the 1.0 I welded the back of the bar in a spot that hits the sear housing to build it up, then filed that down until the striker could be dropped. Worked great. Felt it slightly in slow dryfire. Couldn’t tell the difference in live fire, so I skipped offering to do it for my friends. But it was a fun experiment.

Political discussion isn’t permitted on Enos. Small problem with that idea.

Not at all - certainly not for shots out to 25yd with handguns in USPSA. In fact many wet tumbler guys stop using pins to clean inside the cases because when they’re totally spotless they stick when the case mouth is being belled. The carbon residue left behind from firing makes for just enough dry lube to prevent that.

This is not a lie! I’m considering going to wet tumbling without pins in order to get rid of all traces of dust with a similar time commitmen, since dumping the jub out into a food dehydrator doesn’t take much time to actually handle. That said, a couple of used dryer sheets in each batch of brass in walnut media captures 90% of the dust I had when doing it without, so the dust minimal enough that I keep putting off building/buying a wet tumbler.

Why do we tumble used casings? To make it pretty? Not at all. We do it so that the rough corroded brass won’t chew up the dies in our reloading press, and so that it’s slick enough to feed through our magazines, chamber, and extract cleanly. To do that I find 30 minutes in a walnut dry tumbler is more than sufficient in most cases - I’m not picking up corroded green cases in the first place. My brass often still looks like the stuff on the left. Wherever it was corroded you will still see a visible stain. It’s smooth to the touch, but I don’t continue to work on it until it’s fully polished. My ammo fuctions just like the rounds I’d load with the cases on the right, and since I’m both experienced in reloading and the exact opposite of “retired with lots of free time” ... I cut the corners I can.

Having gone from a 34 to M&P to a heavy steel Tanfoglio... and now back to a polymer Walther Q5? The gun honestly doesn’t matter much. There is always some give and take: a 44oz gun is stable and sinfully easy to assault a 20 yard plate rack with in comparison to a 24oz gun. Polymer guns transition at absolute warp speed up close when you’re hosing a 5 yard array, whereas the steel ones need more muscle. To shoot well you need to grip either gun veryagressively, it’s just more obvious with a lighter gun when you’re slacking off. You won’t notice the difference in sight radius. Pick the gun you truly love and will practice hard with. Because things like reloads? Hate to break it to you but a 34 is as easy to reload with as anything else out there. Many other guns are worse and have tiny mag openings, sure. But the 34 is as fast it gets in Production - you’re lacking in skill. Not gear. Dryfire time.

@JRM83 Squirrel Daddy makes a hardened pin for the Lee dies that is fantastic. I went through 2 or 3 factory ones before finding their hardened pin I’m still on my first pin (they send a 3 pack) perhaps 10,000 rounds later. Very happy with the purchase !

I’m good with loading and shooting the stuff on the left. You guys have fun with the rest of these silly steps.

Life is too short to deprime then tumble 9mm brass. Clean it with the primers in and then run it through the 650 to deprime and reload it in a single pass. It performs identically either way, so skip it. The purpose of running a reloader is to create ammo to go practice and compete and improve with. Put your time into dryfiring if you want to enjoy match day, not into making your ammo. (I just don’t get guys who turn loading ammo into the primary hobby, and shooting it becomes secondary.)

Why the P (polymer) series guns which are lighter than the metal guns (twice the weight of a Glock, & weight soaks up recoil) and are a pain to work on internally? If you want to play in IDPA SSP and in Production? Look at the new version of the Limited Pro about to come out, or at a Stock 1.

Pretty easy to make that switch. You’ll just pause for a second after seating the mag and thinking about running the slide home to realize... “oh right. I’m done with the load already.” It’s just like doing a tac load or RWR now: on the move from A to B, no need to manipulate the slide. You simply drop the partial in the dirt instead of slowing to retain it.

Tim Herron: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1NNpWdt3M2VZ4Q4QJp3UaA

@PhillySoldier the only alternative is to seat & crimp in the same station. It’s much better to lose the powdercheck and sell it new in box on eBay. Hell, I still have my used one I need to sell.

Yes, if you’re using Dillon’s powdercheck in station 3. It becomes: Size / deprime Prime / powder drop Bulletfeeder Seat Crimp I highly recommend the bulletfeeder along with a small automotive inspection mirror ziptied to the frame, since you no longer have the buzzer going off for a squib or doublecharge as a backup to your visual inspection. Makes it easy to see the powder level in station 3 before your press places a bullet on the upstroke. The bullet feeder is a massive production increase, second only to the casefeeder and owning multiple primer pickiup tubes.

@IHAVEGAS oh I know. I’ve done the same thing. At a local I’d often rather eat the mike and be done with the match in time to mow my lawn and paint the fence or whatever. A lot of us will choose that over reshoots to better our scores... and stay out there until 4:30pm on Saturday.

Since local rules, yo.

Valid in the CZ’s case. However, every other firearm manufacturer out there manages to make that a lifetime service component without issue. So it’s certainly possible that a tool steel or similarly tough component might make that happen in the Shadow, too.

I’m honestly surprised someone hasn’t made an aftermarket hardened (then precisely tempered) one out of chromoly or tool steel or something. There’s a huge market. Hell maybe they looked and it it’s not a materials issue: perhaps the CZ one is expertly machined and hardened, the guns just load it excessively.

Yigal is in Europe, I believe. Hence the broken English - I know for sure he isn’t in North America.

The answer to that is largely found in how many points you dropped. You were also still slow when running and NOT doing anything else. At no point did I see movement I’d call “running.” Which is good news: it makes a lot of time very easy to pick up when you work on that. But until sprinting with a gun in your hand is normal due to repeated practice, you won’t make it happen on match day. Practice time!