kbear38S

Religious Shooter, I have a fussy 1100 set up for Open and I think I've done just about everything to it except take it to deep water to drown the piece of junk. It just does not feed reliably (FTF every 15-25 rounds, shell left in mag tube) The ports have been opened up though I don't know the diameter. I tried trimming the recoil spring. I've run it wet and dry and have replaced the O-rings and gas seal, been through 2 followers, 2 mag springs, and 2 mag tubes. My ammo is Rem hi vel general purpose loads 1270 and 1370 fps I think, and Fed Tactical slugs. Can you give me details about how you lube your 1100 and the diameter of your gas ports.

The York Izaak Walton Legue Pistol club will host something to replace the Summer Blast on those dates. As the cancellation of the Summer Blast is new information for us as well, we do not at this time have definite plans for a replacement match. We will be considering various possibilities which may be an 8 stage USPSA match or possibly a Steel Challenge match. We will post new information here once we decide on something.

I'm having some intermittant feed problems and I thought I recalled reading somewhere that the steel or aluminum ones worked better than plastic which is what I have now. Either working too much and no time to play or not working enough and no money to play. I haven't seen you down our way for awhile either.

Steel, aluminum, or plastic?

We had a shooter scored under the wrong name and shooter number. Is there anyway to change the shooter for a set of results other than reentering all the scores for the correct shooter and deleting the wrong set?

Here's the first picture of the production model:

This just sucks. When is the USPSA going to come out with a single action 9mm only division. We're losing shooters because we're not willing to provide them with a place where they can feel competitve. There are just too many shooters without their own divisions. We should try it and let the market decide.

Get it from the source. The full control version allows the user to selective show or hide various components. The regular version and screensaver go through cycles showing and hiding different parts of the gun. You can see all the internal components work as the 1911 goes though a firing sequence. http://www.stiguns.com/idx.html?downloads.html

Agreed. IDPA shooters have a different mindset and want to play a different game. Bring them in and they'll want to change IPSC into IDPA. IDPA may well be the best thing that ever happened to IPSC. They have a sport they like, we have a sport we like.

No. We don't have to try every bad idea that comes along. If we try it and it's a waste, we'll be having a similar debate about pi$$ing of single stack division shooters if we drop the division.

Why don't we start making divisions for individual brands, too. Clearly that $3500 Wilson single stack is a competitive advantage over a guy with a $200 third world import clone, so why not make special divisions for them, too? In fact, why not divisions for people who don't practice? How about divisions for people who are slow? Heck, lets just have separate divisions for everybody in the match and everyone will win and have lots of self-esteem and every new shooter will come back and work all the matches and within a few years everybody in the world will be a USPSA member and grand master.

New shooters are ALWAYS going to get their butt kicked by a GM with an open gun regardless of whether they're shooting L10 or the unnecessary single stack division. If they don't understand that a single stack in L10 is not competing against and open GM, it's not going to make any difference if they're in a single stack division.

Oops... Vince, you posted your computer's desktop wallpaper again!

Got a whoppin' 460 or so done before it took a sh## this time. Since I spent about 4 hours reworking the thing before this loading session, that works out just about right to my usual 2 hrs of press fixing for each 200 rounds. Sure wish I hadn't sold off the Super conversion for my 550. Brett, the primer feed bar I swapped out was the original one that was troublesome. Because I was replacing the buggered up rubber on the newer one, when I tried the old one it was obvious the rubber on that one was too long and dragging on the frame. 1) It should have never shipped that way. 2) You'd think one of the several tech guys at Dillon would have told me to check it. Oh yeah, I remember, they told me I'm not technical enough.

Well I got enough out of spec and busted parts laying around that you ought to be able to put something together. Attach the B-25 and you got a deal. Will also do a B-26 which is arguably cooler. Okay, I'll settle for a couple Ma-Duces off the B-n and I'll even pony up for the Class III license. No... I don't really want to trade. I just want to load some ammo.

Found some tubing that fits. Then this: Now the real reason for all the primer feed problems isn't the rubber buffer though, the primer hole in the primer feed bar is just a little bit too small or maybe off center. The primer punch presses through without too much extra difficulty - not enough to notice, but really binds when trying to reverse the stroke. All this time I thought it was because of the EGW undersized die and Lee factory crimp die. Fortunately I have an extra small primer feed bar that seems to work smoothly. Now what are the chances that it will work with the busted cam pin? Which smiley is the 'disgusted' one?

Make it a Bushmaster 308 and a 650 w/o dies and I might get interested. Right now I have to get it working because I need 700-800 rounds for the A8 this weekend. Maybe half that but my wife won't feed me if I don't load her ammo.

Yes, it's chewed up on one side but this problem has been going on almost from new. How critical is the diameter? Piece I got at the local autoparts store is bigger than the thickness of the primer slide. If the diameter changes, do I have to change the number of shims? Track is clean. I spend more time cleaning the press then I do my guns which are very clean. Everybody else with 1050s tell me they hardly ever clean them. Every try and take one apart while it's jammed halfway down, a whole bunch of springs under tension, with a full tube of primers because a primer is stuck in the guts? Also not recommended.

I got one of the first Super 1050s an had just about every problem imaginable with it. After hours on the phone to tech support and a couple trips back to the factory, Dillon finally sent me a new machine for the old. Everything else finally runs fine but I still cannot get through more than 200 rounds with it choking on a primer - mostly from the primer feed but sometimes an old one from the Primer Toss O'Matic stage. I've been told... My primers are bad: Nope - many different lots of Fed and Win. My brass is bad: Nope - Win, Starline, Rem plain & nickel, new of each brand, used of each brand, much of it Case-Pro'ed. Not using Dillon dies: wtf??? Wrong powder brands & types: another wtf??? Too many shims on the primer feed bar. Not enough shims on the primer feed bar. Dirty primer feed bar. Clean primer feed bar. Bad primer tube tip including ones that run fine on the 550. Not mechanically skilled enough to use a 1050: (no problems with the 60K or so loaded on my 550) No matter what I do, all of a sudden the machine starts binding up - can't see a stuck primer anywhere, then after forcing the thing through a few cycles, a new, sometimes half smashed primer will go flying across my bench and of course, there's one loaded round in the bin without a primer. My real throughput on that machine is probably no more than 100/hr because of all the downtime. My 550 will run forever at 400-450/hr. Gotta load about 800 rounds for my wife and I for the A8 next week and since I need a press that actually works ALL the time, I guess it's a damn good thing I kept the 550.

I saw a website once on home anodizing and there was a link either to the same website or another about metal polishing. They used vibratory cleaners exactly like the ones we use to clean brass but used a variety of rouges and polishing compounds - and left the stuff in the tumbler for something like a week at a time. If you google search for home anodizing or something like that, you may find it.

I have an LS-40 (same top, shorter grip) and it fits fine in my Milt Spark summer special which is made for a Kimber Compact.

I had a similar problem and it turned out the mags were just a bit too tall. They just wouldn't seat in deep enough to positively latch on the mag catch. STI fixed the problem but understanding now what it was, I would make the repair myself.

Would it? Are your eyes and brain fast enough to be able to see the scan lines on your TV actually trace across the screen or the individual frames when watching a movie? If not, you're not going to be able to see the sight move either.

Can anybody identify the mount used by Debbie Cheek in the photo on page 19 of the Dec./Nov. 2003 issue of Front Sight? I'm looking for something low and light to mount a Cmore or OKO.

Wouldn't it be great if somebody came up with a way to use FAL mags in a bolt gun stock? $5 for usable 20 rounders and $10 for the new, premium ones.