Joe D

The only powder that I got tumbling with was Clays. TG and Solo 1000 work well. I do shoot a pretty heavy 9mm bullet - 160 gr. Next up is a 200 gr.

I am always looking for the perfect trigger. My latest experiment utilizes a stock 5 lb connector. I am getting a very short, crisp 1 1/2 lb pull with a good reset. The pad hole location effects the pull more than some think. When drilling the hole in the bar I find it best to go straight up the leg. A carbide bit makes drilling the bar very easy. You are correct about the pad hole. I have a small block that I rest it on when drilling. BTW use a cratex wheel to reshape the nose. It removes metal and polishes at the same time. One more thing - watch out for the height of the nub that pushes the striker safety down. If it is too high it will drag on the slide. I have a drawer full of ruined trigger bars and pads.

Can you post a picture? The new ones have a distinct look. The stamping is not as good as the older ones. They will still work.

It would make a better ESP gun. A 230 gr slug thundering along at 550 fps is pretty awesome.

The newest style Glock trigger bars require a slightly different hole location. Relocate the hole .140" instead of the .120" location.

209-874-4322

I put a slight bevel on the slide stop where it contacts the slide notch.

I "adjust" my slide stops to release when the mag is seated.

Yes they are. I received some bullets from them last week.

Leading is usually caused by bullets that are too small in diameter. I had some Bear Creek 9mm moly bullets that would lead in every 9mm gun I had. Not a little, but severe leading. I checked the diameter - .355-.356. They replaced all of my bullets n/c with some sized .3565" - .357". No leading what so ever now. Titegroup is not a good choice for moly or lead bullets. I switched over to Solo 1000.

One of the "standard" loads for 9mm is 3.0 - 3.2 gr of Titegroup with a 147. I used Titegroup for years before switching to Solo 1000.

Have you ever felt a new Les Baer?

What part of "IDPA is just a game" was difficult to understand.

I guess some of the clubs around here take a more practical approach. When the temp is above 90 concealment is optional. Remember IDPA is just a game.

Why do guns in this price range have to be sent out for anything? Should they not be right when STI makes them? Don't get me started about the grossly overpriced 2011.

I just use the regular Lee carbide sizing die. No problems with Glock bulge. IMO the EGW/U die sizes the case too much.

I have switched over to Solo 1000 from Titegroup in 9mm. I still use Clays in .40 and .45. May try Solo in those when I use up the two 8 lb jugs of Clays. I could not get Clays to work with the heavy 9mm bullets.

Any word on these yet? Last time I talked with STI they were trying to sort out the CNC software.

Here you go - http://www.mcmaster.com/

It takes me about 1 minute to polish every surface on a Glock trigger bar with a cratex tip. There is no need to spend an hour with Flitz or any other compound.

Decisions, decisions? Here is another approach. Shoot Single Stack USPSA and ESP IDPA with a good old single stack .45 1911. You want soft - try a 200 gr SWC at 675 fps. If you use 9 round mags for ESP you start with 10 in the gun.

Too bad they did not take this opportunity to move the slide stop forward. It rests right under my thumb. Slide never locked back for me.

They may be getting more popular, but don't expect any "revolver friendly" stages from me.

Shooting a pistol from a rest is much more difficult that people realize. You must allow the gun to recoil the same every time. Your elbow is the pivot point.

Surface grinder or you might want to check with www.ameriglo.com