Toolguy

That screw holds in a spring and plunger that operates the cylinder stop. In later models they just put the spring inside the sideplate without a plunger. That gun is probably from the late 50s to sometime in the 60s.

Very few are qualified to repair a broken hammer or trigger stud.

S&W will repair it, probably as warranty, maybe not. You would have to call and ask them. That's the best way to get it fixed.

If you try to use the broken pin, it will not end well. The way to fix it is to drill out the broken part and put in a new pin of the correct diameter and length. You can secure the new pin in the frame with bearing retainer LocTite. Leave the trigger out for 24 hrs. and put the sideplate on to align the pin until the LocTite sets up. Clean off any excess, and reassemble. If done carefully, you can avoid drilling all the way through the frame. That way it won't look any different, and the pin can't come out.

I don't shoot USPSA, so I don't know about that application. I find it pretty minimal. It is never in the way for anything I shoot. There are a couple of guys one here that are pretty good, maybe they can chime in. If it's longer than you need, you can cut the downframe off to any length you want.

Try mine and let me know how you like it.

Michael, we have a thread on our dealer forum with pictures of the holster with different guns. All of Protocall Design's products are in that forum. You'll have to go to RevUp Action's website for hammers, though. (Info also in sig V)

I've been using my Hogue Power Speed holster with Revo adapter for many years. I like it because it's totally secure when locked, lightning fast to draw from, and fits all my revos from 4" to 8-3/8". It takes a few seconds to adjust from any one to any other one.

I'm shooting 38 Short Colt in my 929, it works great. I made another cylinder for it from a 357 cylinder. All I have to do is switch cylinders to shoot 9mm or SC. It takes about a minute to change over.

PM me. Looks like I may need to make some more.

It's not worth patenting. I have around 18 or so patents now, they're very expensive. I'll just make what I need or want and not worry about a patent. Anyway, now the idea is in the public domain, so it's not patentable now. Anyone who wants to can do them. Free gift to the revo world.

My way is a complete new screw made from a piece of bar stock, all one piece. There is a bit of time invested in each one, but the end result is worth it to me. To pskys2 - I will do them for $20 each. I have to make them one at a time, not set up for production, so each one takes a while.

I replaced the factory crane screws with solid ones I made from bar stock. I made them a bit oversize in length so they could be fitted to each gun. The fitting took 5 or 10 minutes each. No cylinders on the ground for me.

I made a M29 44 Automag revolver many years ago, when bowling pin shooting was popular. I made 500 brass out of 308 rifle brass because it was unobtainable at that time. That took forever. Starline makes 44 Automag brass now. This is the first I've heard of another 44AM revolver.

That's very cool. I like it!

The Auto Rim (AR) cases have thicker rims to make up for lack of a moon clip. They may or may not work in different speedloaders due to rim thickness.

I did not leave the comp on, as it doesn't do anything. I took it off and threaded the barrel and put on a 7 port titanium comp that actually works. I'm shooting 160 gr. bullets at about 140 pf.

I have used bot the welding spatter spray and Dillon case lube quite a bit. They both work. The Dillon needs to be re applied about every 50 to 100 rounds. The welding spray will last a match or 2, maybe longer. I haven't checked to see how much longer because I don't like digging the lead out of the comp.

I'd like to know how it works out.

My 929 has a .357 barrel, I think most of them are the same. It's most likely the 38 Super does too. That way S&W can use the same barrels for 9mm, 38 Super and 38/357. It was rumored that the first 929s had a .355 barrel, but I don't know if they did or not.

When I first saw the title, I thought it was about shooting a centipede!

It sounds like you're on the right track.

Nothing specific. It's impossible to predict the future. There are only 2 of us, each running a business, with the gun parts business additional. I can tell you that it will be as soon as we can make it happen, just don't know when that will be. We are hoping to get the next production run done in a month or so. We may or may not make it, depending on the needs of our primary customers.

That is definitely a problem area. I would get a new extractor if possible. Otherwise, that one needs to be reworked.

Yes. That circle is all that should touch the recoil shield. The top of the ratchets should be about .005 below the surface of the circle.