Toolguy

When we have more N frame hammers, we will post a notice in the Revo Forum. We are hoping to have them by the end of the year. Our main business is taking most of our time right now. Shooting accessories are a sideline/hobby business.

TKCustom is now making the moonclips I told them about on their email form. August 14 post in this thread. Look for the ones with slits that say "for any brand of brass" in the description. They never said thanks, good idea, or anything for telling them how to make thousands of dollars and better moon clips.

Yes, we will. We don't know an exact time for that.

Thanks for the good word, practical man. We are hoping more people will try it out going forward.

Yep - Tap the metal back where it came from as outlined above. A 5/16 drill shank fits the ramps nicely. You will be amazed at how that will revitalize peened cylinder notches. Do not file the burrs off. You can usually do this multiple times on the same cylinder.

The small dent is all you get from the firing pin. The big dent when it goes off is from the case slamming back on the firing pin when the powder lights up.

Most times, .495 is considered the minimum firing pin length. A few factory ones are that long, most are shorter. The extended ones are usually around .505 + or - a bit. With the hammer all the way down, you want the firing pin to stick out of the recoil shield about .050, the thickness of a dime.

I don't have any new extractors, but we might be able to get you going some other way. Bring it by and we'll have a look.

There should be .005 to .010 between the recoil shield and the head of the case. That is plenty of room for a slightly bent moonclip to cause problems. Moons need to be flat, flat, flat.

On the N frame, that part hits the frame and keeps the upper part just barely off the frame so it doesn't peen the firing pin hole. The K and L frame has an angled surface there that does the same thing.

All this anguish can be easily and cheaply prevented. All you have to do is get a 5/16" OD x 3/16" ID (metric equivalent would be M6 ID x M8 OD) rubber O ring (or package of them) and put it in the frame over the back of the firing pin for frame mounted, or over the firing pin hole for hammer nose models. It will go from round to oval when you install it. The side tension keeps it in place. This is a good safety measure as well. The gun won't fire with the O ring in place, if the gun somehow gets ammo in it. Then you don't need expensive snap caps and have way more protection for the firing pin, spring, hammer, frame, etc. All of these are cushioned and protected by the O ring. This also makes dry firing quieter in case someone in the next room doesn't want to hear all the clicks. Your scores will benefit greatly by removing the O ring before the match.

The Carmonized hammer works great. Mike Carmoney knows revos inside and out. He is also a very good revolver shooter. Kudos to MC.

I have a holster mod for Houge Power Speed holster that makes it fit all revos from 4" to 8-3/8" barrel. You can use stock or any modified or open revo. It's on the Protocall Design website.

The MIM parts, done right, are not a problem. S&W has very high quality MIM parts. They don't look as nice as forged, machined parts, but they are every bit as strong and work just as well. The S&W engineering and design and actual manufacturing are some of the best in the industry. I don't see a need to replace them unless there is a tangible mechanical benefit. Some might say that a better appearance is worth the cost. Then it is to them.

Try a 12 or 13 lb. rebound spring. Find the lightest spring that returns the trigger the way you like it. Many are running a heavier rebound spring than necessary. That's a quick, easy way to shave off trigger pull pounds.

The lighter hammers work the best on Federal primers. The concept is that in physics, speed is more important than weight. The same mainspring tension can move the lighter hammer faster, therefore hit harder. There are upper and lower limits to everything, so too light or too heavy is not good. You have to find the best balance. In my experience, (YMMV), the light hammers don't work as well on hard primers. All this is inter related to the lockwork mechanism of the gun. That is why I invented and patented the RevUp Action hammer kit. With this hammer, unlike all the other aftermarket hammers, the fundamental leverage points have been altered to provide a toggle linkage type compound leverage of the trigger on the hammer. This way you can have a heavy hammer fall combined with a lighter trigger pull. Normally, you can't have both together. The hammer force can be dialed up or down to fire any primers that you have or can get, by using the strain screw. The starting trigger pull is whatever the mainspring is set at to fire a given type of primer. The ending trigger pull is whatever the rebound spring is without the hammer. There is a very smooth ramp down of trigger pull weight. I invented and built a special trigger pull gage to show all this and quantify the numbers. You can see videos of all this on the home page of www.revupaction.com. Rev Up your revo game!

You could get your gun cut for moon clips and use them if the rules would allow it.

Look for anti static spray on Amazon. There are many different ones.

That will work fine if you use round nose bullets. They have to be full round nose, not round flat nose or round nose hollow point or anything with a flat end. You can bevel that part if you want to, but then it won't extract loose rounds that aren't in a moon clip and they may break off, as mentioned above. They did the job correctly.

That has always worked the best for me.

I have .355 Walther barrels on a couple of my guns and shoot .357 jacketed and .358 lead through them and get extreme accuracy. My Bianchi gun in a Ransom Rest will shoot 3/8" groups at 25 yd. and a little over 1" groups at 50 yd. This is with 125 gr. Zero JHP. Hornady, Sierra, and Nosler will all shoot like that in that gun. The point is, a .355 barrel works good for .355 and up. A 357 barrel is good for .357, but sometimes marginal for .355 bullets.

They probably silver solder it.

Probably not, but it works.

A few weeks ago I got some of the new moonclips with slits in them from TKCustom. They are good ones. They emailed me a "how did we do" form to fill out. There was a box for comments, so I said "Here's an idea for you." Make them with slits, and make it so there is only 3 point contact with the case - one at the back by the center hole, and one at each side where the round first clips in. Then the cases would be easy to get in and out, but held tight by spring pressure. You could have one moonclip to fit every brand of brass of that caliber, rather than brass specific. That would cut down on inventory and SKU numbers, too. I'm never going to make moonclips, so I gave them the idea for free, in hopes of helping everyone that shoots a moonclip revo. It would be nice if they gave me some of the new kind (if they ever even do it), but I doubt they would.

Yes - great gun. You got a deal on that one.