Toolguy

You can probably find them at Ace Hardware or order online from McMaster.com. They stay in really well because they are squished a little bit sideways by the frame. You can easily remove them with a toothpick or similar shaped tool.

I would make it out of S7 drill rod. Shock resistant tool steel. Harden to 62 Rockwell C and draw (temper) to around 40 Rc.

They have had tight chambers in 22s for at least 70 years up to the present time. They run the reamers too long on the production line and they wear down smaller and smaller over many cylinders. Then you end up with some cylinders that are the right size with a new set of reamers, some slightly smaller, some a little smaller than that, and some too small, etc. The way to fix that is to get a new standard finishing reamer and cut the chambers to the correct size they should have been to start with. Problem solved.

You could still swap out a whole hammer to see how it does. Nothing to lose.

I can see what it looks like. I'm going to make mine a steeper angle, maybe 10 degrees off of vertical, and leave the back part on. With the back gone, it may batter the firing pin spring enough to make it break (or may not). If this works, then I will send altered ones in the hammer kit to everyone who says it's going in a rimfire.

I make a race holster that fits all S&W revos from 4" to 8-3/8". You can see it at the next ICORE match. This holster can work for right or left hand.

That sounds like a reasonable assessment.

Thanks for the firing pin drawings, Lower40. Looks like a good idea. I'm going to alter mine and try it.

The only thing I can think of offhand is that the hand may be too long and putting pressure on the ratchet before the cylinder is released underneath. This would be possible if someone got an L frame hand in a 6 shot gun. Cocking single action would raise the trigger a little bit later in the cycle. If a 10 shot gun with the hand narrowed at the top, then maybe an L frame hand was accidentally altered at the factory. This is all total speculation based on the clues. I have never heard of this happening before.

The barrel is centered on the frame, but the slot for the front sight was milled at a slight angle. I don't shoot that one much, so I never got around to correcting it.

Here are pictures. Here it is installed in a 617. This works for K,L, and N frames, any caliber.

I should have been more specific. I was addressing dry firing with a rimfire, not getting better primer strikes. Sorry for the confusion.

All you have to do is put a 5/16 OD rubber O ring around the back of the firing pin where the hammer hits. This saves wear & tear on the firing pin, spring, hammer, and cylinder. The gun will dry fire as normal. One O ring will go for thousands of hits. This works for all calibers, unlike snap caps. It also will prevent an AD if you load the gun and forget it's loaded. Remove the O ring to shoot live ammo. Nothing else is cheaper, simpler, or works as well.

Or, you can put a small rubber O ring around the back of the firing pin. The hammer hits the O ring and saves all the wear on the firing pin and spring. Then you can still practice reloads, too. The O rings are way cheaper than anything else. One O ring fits all calibers and number of chambers.

Smith & Wesson has all kinds of 8 shooters, and can have a way better double action trigger pull than Korth or Manhurin.

Thanks for proving my point.

Fishbreath is a seasoned competitor who knows which end is up.

About any fine cut flat needle file will work. If it doesn't have a safe edge, you can grind one edge smooth on a grinder or belt sander. The ratchet teeth are soft, so file a little bit, check your progress, file a little more, etc. It's easy to overdo, so sneak up on it slowly.

Yes, we have a great bunch of revo guys and gals here, now. But nationwide, most revo shooters aren't so lucky. If there are only one or two revo people in a USPSA club, it's pretty hard to ignore the other 20 or 30 that are giving you grief. I think this may be a factor in the low participation rate that never gets talked about. I moved on to other matches, perhaps many others have, too, I don't really know.

For me, it was the snarky, superior attitude and sometimes open hostility of the auto shooters towards revolver shooters that made me give up on USPSA. I have limited free time and resources, and chose not to spend them in that toxic environment. There are plenty of other handgun games that are not like that. I shoot a revo in several different events where everyone has a good time, regardless of what gun they shoot.

Should work like a champ!

You can't convert an older one to have a frame mounted firing pin. You can cut the hammer down (Carmonize) to work well for competition. A hammer nose gun can be just as good as a newer gun for competition. A bobbed or Carmonized hammer and an action job will get you there.

I agree with perttime and ysrracer. The Korth and Manhurin guns are very well made, and I think worth a premium price. However, the DA on them is no better than a spring kit in a Smith. Maybe 8 - 9 lbs. and some have misfires at that level. A while back, a local gun shop (lgs) had 4 Korth and 4 Manhurins on consignment from an estate. I know the owner pretty well, so I asked if I could put them on my trigger pull gage and check the DA pull. They were nice, but nowhere near a tuned 6 lb. S&W or my hammer kit. It's not that hard to get a Smith to 6 lb., there are a lot of them better than that. The S&W K,L, and N frame guns have the most tuning potential of any brand out there. They look similar on the outside, but the lockworks inside are very different from each other.

No. It is intended to be a trigger stop, but they are always too short to do any good. I take them out.

I don't know for sure about that, so I deleted the part about using full power loads in an N frame. I'm not shooting magnums or any high pressure loads with what I'm doing, so I don't want to tell someone else to use high pressure loads.