2tuf4u

38 SC, 40 and 45acp on the manual casepro. 40 s&W, 10mm and 9mm on the commercial Rollsizer

Call and hit the prompt for technical support. Misty has been very helpful.

Did you remember to smear a small amount of heavy grease on the bottom of the brass shuttle--it eliminates excess movement for better transfer alignment.?

European ( Italy ) manufacturer

I just measured 4 different RL 1050 shellplates --all four measure .2000 +/-" across the same measuring surface. It appears the extra thickness is on the top surface with an additional scallop --thus no change in the resize depth. The extra thickness would be helpful to avoid shellplate flex during the station 3 primer pocket swage. It would also mean they are compatibie with earlier production rl 1050/ Super 1050 machines.. This may have been part of the increased rigidity Dillon alluded to the 1100/2000 series which we normally think refers only to the frame.

Are you referring to the Hornady casefeeder? , the new variable Mk 7 casefeeder, or the $1300 MA Mk7 casefeeder?

does it make more noise than the polymer ( Dillon or Hornady ) casefeeder ?

Revolution guys----feedback please. Thx

Primer pocket swaging is not intended to remove carbon and has little effect on the primer pocket carbon. The swaging station will have a small amount of PP carbon particles that can "flake off"

Correct--I have 2 RL 1050's set up to process pistol and rifle brass. Both machines are Mark 7 automated and run at 1200-1500 rph--clutch set at 1, decap sensor " ON "

I rotary tumble ( Dillon ) then hand sort all brass before it goes into a dedicated RL1050 with only a FW decapper. Replaced the metal spent prmer cup with a spent primer hose -- minimal debris on the press which is vacuumed to keep press clean

I decap only in 1st pass. Brass is then wet cleaned and dried All other steps in 2nd pass.

My Sig all steel x5 has a difficult time feeding Winchester 146 TC ammo in the aftermarket Barsto match 9mm barrel--never tried the 124gn TC loads.

Double thickness top -1 1/2" with fascia board. Then I used a wood rasp to "hogout" a deep groove in the fascia/countertop edge to allow the handle to drop to full extension.