iroquois

Quick update: I discovered what was causing the missed primers. If all three screws are screwed down all the way for the transparent primer disc cover, the primer disc will intermittently jam causing the missed primers. You can see in the photo below where one of the main friction points are. After loosening these screws, I'm not getting any missed primers or jams. Also, I made sure to follow the mark 7 video "Apex 10 Priming System Setup Guide" and tenx100s write up.

New Apex 10 user with primer disc woes. I just got my Apex 10 this week and set it up for 9mm. Low and behold I'm also getting missed primers with powder everywhere and my first primer jam. pealandco suggestion about the sizing die over the priming station makes logical sense. Generally a hold down die doesn't apply any pressure. It only holds the brass down. In the case of the sizing die, that's applying a lot of pressure against the shell plate which then makes contact with the the primer disc causing some flex. If you carefully watch the sizing/priming station while sizing a brass, you can see it flex. After reading this thread, I will be switching to a two step methodology. Brass processing then loading. I ended up going that route for 223 on my Dillon 1050 with a mark 7 autodrive. It definitely removes the extra variables. I also plan to follow tenx100s steps for getting the primer system aligned correctly. Thank you for your write up! On a side note, I find it ridiculous that we have to take the Apex 10 apart to make sure all the priming parts are aligned correctly. For the price point we should have a BMW out the door and not a pinto kit car.

Thank you for the feedback! My work hours normally conflict with Mark 7 open hours which is why I was asking about the email approach.

Hi, I initially planned to purchase a Mark 7 Autodrive for my Dillon 1050 and 650 a while back before the Lyman purchase and I saw a lot of issues with contacting their support team. Has access to the Mark 7 Loading support team improved? So far I have had no luck making contact with the sales team by email. I've emailed them twice since Oct. Any feedback on experiences is welcomed.

After an exhaustive amount of research and consulting with target making companies, there are five primary rules involved with shooting steel with a rifle. First, only shoot ammunition with projectiles made of lead or copper jacket with soft lead cores. No, hollow points (will dimple the plate), steel core, steel jacket, tungsten, uranium or any other exotic core. Also avoid using ammunition exceeding 3000 fps. The second is the brinell/hardness of the plate. For rifle, AR550 at 3/8" or 1/2" (for higher calibers) is the best option. The third rule is the steel needs to be completely flat/smooth with no craters, pits or damage. If craters are visible, it's not safe to shoot. The fourth and most important is the plate angle. The plates optimal angle is pointing down approx. 20 degrees to dissipate the bullets energy. This will also increase the target life. It's also imported to place a piece of plywood or pea gravel under the target it to catch any bullet fragments. Fifth and last, the plate target should be at least 100 yards for the safest distance for .223/5.56 or .308. Also note, shotgun slugs also require a 100 yards.

Thanks for the feedback... My goal is to cast bullets for competition and practice. I would like to acheive accuracy if possible. I will be shooting limited 10 division. Looks like Donnie at Bayou bullets is using a single groove with the Hi-tek lube (little pricey). I like the idea of slugging the barrel. What did you use to slug your 40? Sinkers? Would you suggest a better mold than the Lee 6 cavities or should this suffice once I get a better fit? I shoot approx 200-300 rounds a week. I currently have a 20lb melting pot and about 50lbs of ingot. I started casting 12 gauge slugs and decided to cast pistol bullets. At the moment I'm using the 2 cycle oil for mold lube on the lee 12 guage 7/8 slug mold.

I'm looking at several lubing solutions. Pan lube Hi-Tek tumble and epoxy paint. I've read several people had sucess using the Eastwood 2k primer with .5 micron HBN.

Hi, Is more lube grooves better for cast boolits? I'm looking at the following two casting molds for 40 s&w. . Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold 401-175-TC 40 S&W (401 Diameter) 175 Grain Truncated Cone with 1 lube groove Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold TL401-175-SWC 40 S&W (401 Diameter) 175 Grain Tumble Lube Semi-Wadcutter with approx 6 lube grooves