usmc90 Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Looking to get one once I get back to full time work.. Do they trim debur/chamfer or just trim ? I'm looking to do just 223 so what parts will I actually need to get to use one? I load on a 650xl.. for now I've rigged up a 110v 1800rpm motor to a WFT trimmer and am deburring inside and out with a handheld RCBS reamer that makes my hands hurt.lol. So need to upgrade soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 (edited) The Dillon trimmer does not debur or chamfer, but doing it is a waste of time especially by hand. The Dillon trimmer cuts a flat trim and leaves little,or no flashing because of its hi speed. Most of us after sizing/trimming will tumble the cases to remove sizing lube. This will also remove the remaining flashing. To avoid inside neck chamfering, use a slight expansion or bell to allow the bullet to enter upon seating. Remove this expansion with a crimp die, but don't crimp the case neck into the bullet. The crimp will also delete the need to chamfer the outside of the neck. I have been doing this for years for my 223 and 308 used for 3gun, easily under a minute accurate and eliminates the need to handle each case during the loading process. I presort by headstamp, resize/trim, load, and chamber check. The only time I am handling individual pieces of brass is sorting and chamber checking. No sore hands, and I can load buckets full of ammo at a time. jmho jj Edited August 31, 2015 by RiggerJJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 (edited) I do nearly the same exact thing as RiggerJJ and agree. The Dillon trimmer leaves a very nice flat cut (if it doesn't, you need to look at replacing the blade). Also, if you wet tumble with SS media, there is no need to debur as the wet tumbling action will clean up any issues that may remain. Also, if you are only doing .223, you can use the RT1200 instead. Edited August 31, 2015 by RDA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmfischer Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 The 1200 has been discontinued. I wasnt happy to find this out when I ordered mine from the Dillon site. Only to get my order without it and it showing on the invoice that it was discontinued. So rather than getting a call telling me it had been discontinued and to see if i would like to go with the 1500 they just deleted it from my order. Which I then had to place another order for the 1500 and pay another shipping charge. That would be the only complaint I have had with Dillon's customer service. I purchased a second 550 used which the primer sensor was broken contacted customer support and they sent me a new sensor no charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeltFed Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 What are the advantages of the RT1500 over the 1200? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 You can buy a 1500 new, but not a 1200. That's a pretty good advantage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakman Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 IIRC, the 1200 has been discontinued by Dillon in lieu of the 1500. When I ordered my 1050, the 1200 wasn't even an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safeactionjackson Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 I believe the RT1500 was built with 300 blackout in mind (which will require a modified tool head on 550/650/1050). While some had used the RT1200 I believe it was designed for trimming a few thousands from a case, not chopping 1/4 inch + off. Converting 556 to 300AAC was putting additional wear and tear on the RT1200. ~g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 The RT1500 has bigger bearings and brushes to deal with the stress of cartridge conversion. I had heard at one time that they would eventually phase out the RT1200, I just didn't know that it had occurred already, you would think they would have removed it from their website or marked it out of stock so you couldn't order it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaverickNH Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 OK - I need some basics here please. Thanks for the help. Starting with 1x-fired bulk range brass, a Dillon XL650, Wet SS Pin Tumbler and RT1500, in what order should I best be doing things from start to finish from bag of brass (223/308) to box of loaded cartridges? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anm2_man Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 OK - I need some basics here please. Thanks for the help. Starting with 1x-fired bulk range brass, a Dillon XL650, Wet SS Pin Tumbler and RT1500, in what order should I best be doing things from start to finish from bag of brass (223/308) to box of loaded cartridges? This is usally a 3 steip process. Requires 2 tool heads. Assuming you start with clean brass: First step - Tool head 1 = Station 1. Dillon Full Length Resize/Decap Station 2. Empty Station 3. RT1500 + Trim die Station 4. Empty Station 5. Lyman M-Die (Ever so slightly open the neck) Lube cases and run them thru the above tool head. After this step is completed, you need to clean the cases. I use std corn cob. Takes less than 10 min. Step 2: If range brass then it may contain military brass. Military brass has Crimped primer pockets. You need to remove the crimp. Suggest Dillon Super Swage. Painfull step but can't be avoided. Step 3: Ready to load ammo. Second tool head Station 1 = Empty Station 2 = Powder measure Station 3 = Powder check (optional) Station 4 = Seating die Station 5 = Crimp die (can be optional). Run the brass thru and you have loaded ammo ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaverickNH Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Thanks for that ANM2_man, I appreciate the detailed explanation. I think I've assembled all the parts you have described. I'm bought 3000 1x-fired Lake City cases from Widners, and "washed" a batch in an Ultrasonic Cleaner at 65C with degreaser and Lemi-Shine. They came out pretty clean of grits and bits, after a few spins in a Media Separarer with running water to rinse, and a dry cycle. I'll lube cases and set up as above and give it a try, but use Wet SS Pin Tumbling between the two toolhead set-ups. Fingers crossed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MG08 Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Allright - new question, same thread- I am just now trying to set up a 1200 to trim 30 cal brass. Got the trimmer LNIB, it seems to run fine, new cutting blade. I set it up on a bench in the shop in a Rockchuker, since I have been putting off trimming brass for years. Now I have enough to do that the power trimmer made sense. It will pretty much be a dedicated station. I have trimmed brass for small batches of custom loads in a manual trimmer. Is there a technique, or adjustment that will make the 1200 cut "smoother" ? Seems to mush room out the neck, or at least leave a very rough cut edge. I would expect better, and I assume it is operrator error. Tips, comments and technique appreciated..... Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) From what you are describing you may have installed the cutter blade backwards. It should cut clean and straight (flat) with maybe a small amount of flashing or burr. A pic would help. jj Edited September 7, 2015 by RiggerJJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunsablazin Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Do you need the special short tool head for prepping .223 brass on the 1050? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakman Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Nope. You only need that if you're prepping 7.62x39 or 300BLK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Can you use the special 1050 tool head for the short trim die to trim .223 as well ad make 300 black out? I would rather only buy one tool head... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakman Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 I *think* the answer is yes. I can't imagine why it wouldn't work for both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smeeg Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 OK - I need some basics here please. Thanks for the help. Starting with 1x-fired bulk range brass, a Dillon XL650, Wet SS Pin Tumbler and RT1500, in what order should I best be doing things from start to finish from bag of brass (223/308) to box of loaded cartridges? This is usally a 3 steip process. Requires 2 tool heads. Assuming you start with clean brass: First step - Tool head 1 = Station 1. Dillon Full Length Resize/Decap Station 2. Empty Station 3. RT1500 + Trim die Station 4. Empty Station 5. Lyman M-Die (Ever so slightly open the neck) Lube cases and run them thru the above tool head. After this step is completed, you need to clean the cases. I use std corn cob. Takes less than 10 min. Step 2: If range brass then it may contain military brass. Military brass has Crimped primer pockets. You need to remove the crimp. Suggest Dillon Super Swage. Painfull step but can't be avoided. Step 3: Ready to load ammo. Second tool head Station 1 = Empty Station 2 = Powder measure Station 3 = Powder check (optional) Station 4 = Seating die Station 5 = Crimp die (can be optional). Run the brass thru and you have loaded ammo ! There is the swage it for the Dillon xl650 yes it will ruin your warranty but would eliminate one time consuming step Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anm2_man Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 There is the swage it for the Dillon xl650 yes it will ruin your warranty but would eliminate one time consuming step Shhhh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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