MG08

Ok, I am going to suggest a solution- no offense to anyone - I saw similar results when I first got my trimmer used - and was just figuring out how to set it up. Is the carbide cutter on the trimmer shaft on backwards ? I was trying to figure out why I was getting the results I was in trimming some 30-06 - and it dawned on me to look at the cutter. when I turned it around, it worked as it should. the guy before me must have installed it backwards, and I did not know any better. I am trimming down 30-06 to 7.7 x58 right now and that is trimming a LOT of brass,no issues. ( I use a 308 trim die and adjust it to get min case length in the 7.7.)

what parts do you need ? I have alot of spares. I could probably loan you until you get parts from dillon -

I just finished up a big run of 223 on the super 1050. I ran into two different headstamps of brass that were berdan. I only broke one pin. It was some military stuff, weird number / symbol headstamp. Range pick up brass, so no idea where it was from . Mostly just stopped the press short so I was able to remove the brass. But there is berdan out there.

I have done my first caliber change on the 1050 - made a metric boatload of 223 - switching over to load 7.62/308 . It took a while and I had to adjust pretty much everything. I have spare tool head, 308 conversion large primer conversion, plenty of brass and bullets. anyone have words of wisdom and things to look out for ? I am up and running at this point, but was wondering if there was stuff I needed to look at or watch out for ?

where did you find enough boxer brass ? I have been saving it for years, and have maybe a thousand cases. And I have fired probably 200,000 rds of 8mm through various MGs....

I use the Dillon mounts on the 550s and 650s, and got the shorter inline mount for the 1050S. It is as noted more a working height issue that "sturdy" issue, although I think the wider base to bench when using the inline mount vs the base of the Super 1050 makes it more stable. I reload standing and have all the machines on taller commercial benches.

I have not tried 8mm, but 303 British and 8mm Lebel- yes on a 550. I have not gotten around to needing to reload 8mm yet, but have a crate of boxer brass saved. As far as parts, measure the base of the 8mm, But I would guess the 30-06 shell plate and pins would work, and the powder funnel may work, if not find another 8mm'ish case type and use that size . If the funnel is too small you could open it up a little too. You could call and ask Dillon - that is where I got the info for the 8mm Lebel parts on my 550. My guess is this would not be the first time they got asked that. Do you have enough brass to make it worth the trouble ?

So I am in need of a large rifle plate, have plenty of everything else - Dillon is back ordered. While searching the interweb, I noted that the hornady plates "appear" to be the same, just different color. Anyone have any information on whether they will interchange ?

the low primer alarm is a quick and easy fix for your problem. primer tubes are handy, but watching the little black rod is also an option- build it into your methodology. you can load primers BEFORE you run out- there is room for a full p/u tube when you have several primers left yet.

I ran into this as well- you hit on the solutions I tried and that worked for me. Inner primer tube tip replacement. Readjust the swaging rod, and check your brass. The swaging rod should deal with crimped primers, but I needed to adjust . Clean is good, and I replaced the primer slide with the new dillon part . Expensive but it really fixed my priming issues.

I found the oiled bronze bushing worked better in my loaders than the bearing kits. Just my perception. I have 5 -550s and 3 -650s, so it is a big deal for me. I will point out that the oiled bronze washer / bushing is available at ACE hardware in the cool little parts boxes department for like a buck fifty each. cheap test if you want to try it. Brian

I had some of the federal primers, and no issues with my S1050 or 650.

In this market you may be able to get 110% of the value, depending on caliber. I have gotten some killer deals on used loaders, but prices these days are near 100% of retail Put it on ebay- figure a good shipping amount. You can try to aim high and put it out on Craigs list, but then you get flagged a lot

This was my first thought. Clean the press and focus on the shell plate. And use lube. I found sizing infinitely easier when it is used and less brass issues with lube.

Lots of good info in this string - Hope it helps others. I wanted to update where I was at and answer some questions. Yes, running manually. This thing almost makes ammo faster than I can shoot it, even with hiccups. Set up in 223, and I have tried most of the suggestions presented here. The machine is pretty much new, very low round count. I am getting better at adjusting it. I did set the swaging rod a little deeper, and that seemed to help. I tried replacing the rubber roller on the Primer slide ( old style), and while that helped a little ( increased the mean time to failure some) it did not solve the problem. I called dillon, and ended up ordering the new slide part ( not cheap). I also tried different primers - shifted from Winchester to Federal match. It seems that the new primer slide with brass roller solved the problem. Everything else made incremental improvements and I tried to only change one thing at a time to evaluate the change. when I replaced the slide, the error rate has gone to zero so far, with about 1500 rds run on the new slide. I even went back to the winchester primers since I am making blaster ammo right now ( saving the match primers for my varmint loads coming up.) I removed the ratchet assembly a well, since I was running into a particular brass case in 223 /5.56 that was berdan, which jimmied me up on the depriming station. Now that I know what to look for, I am sorting those out anyway. I was a bit surprised since I did not think anyone made berdan.... Anyway, pretty happy with the loader now, I keep thinking I should set up another caliber but I just don't need it. I was thinking 308, but I don't have enough brass to make it worth the trouble and expense of getting a 308 conversion. I have two tool heads, 9mm and 45 acp conversions and dies, powder measures, but can't really justify those setups since I have 650s to load those.

I had trouble with Wolf on my 550, and decided to not use it. When I started loading on the 1050, ( see my other posts for trouble shooting issues I had) I still had a few wolf cases in the mix of brass, and they did not seem to swage as well- so again I sorted out the Wolf and recycle it. I am still having the issue, but not nearly as often. There may be some ideas in my other string on my 1050 issues.

I have this issue in particular with Blazer brass in 40 S&W. I just toss that. I also sort my 9mm looking for the Mil and internal step brass, but have fewer problems in 9mm.

there is so much good reloadable brass out there- I would not waste my time on brass giving you trouble. It is laying in piles on our local ranges.

I appreciate all the tips - It would seem we ( the mods/ board) should put in a sticky for the "how to fix problems " like mine that seem to be common for all the Loaders. I know I had a learning curve on my 650s and 550s. I have had those for 25 years, and loaded enough on them to need to rebuild the 650s. GREAT loaders though. I appreciate the tip about calling Dillon for the new part - I hate buying new parts for something that should work, but it is what it is. I had seen some references to it but did not know it was a dillon part upgrade. It does seem to be working much better now, - knock on wood. will be going to test random samples of ammo today. Thanks again for the tips, and if any other tips or Hacks come to mind feel free to add them to this string. I love reading up on what other people think up - I am working toward a video system as described on the board, but wanted to get the 1050 running first.

Yes, I replaced the blue tip on the tube. I will see about smoothing out the primer slide, and there is a spacer / washer under the plate of some sort, but I will post a photo just to be sure the next time I have it apart.

as follow up to this string, I did some more reading, and took the advice posted here. you guys with 1050, 1100, etc probably all know this stuff, but this 1050 is a lot different mechanically than my 550s and 650s. One issue Is that the machine is not really broken in - Still tight and as I used it it seems to operate better. Case feed got ironed out by aligning the shell plate better.... seems to loosen up as you cycle the machine while adjusting - just the way it turns. Have to watch for that. I also found that ANY dings in the rim of the brass will ( or at least can) cause feed issues. But that is running almost perfectly now. Primer feed has been a little more troublesome. Cleaned, aligned, and still getting missed and smeared primers often enough to be a PIA. I replaced the rubber roller on the primer slide. I did adjust ( from what I assume was a factory setting as the machine came in 223) the swaging rod, which really seems to help. I am doing a run now to see how well it goes without a failure- it is still not 100%. I may adjust up again. Question - in the primer slide primer "hole" it would appear that there is a ridge or rim about 1/3 of the way in from the top- does anyone know if this is an intentional design or something else ? I tried cleaning it out and was not really successful....

Well, I aligned the shell plate by tightening and that seems to have solved the problem. did not take much, a fraction of a turn. I changed from Remington primers to some old CCI primers - seems to have helped but not solved the problem. Open to other ideas and solutions - things to look over ....

So I had posted about the 1050 I found for sale. I researched 1050 issues guys had here on the Enos site, and read all I could find about problems and solutions before I got started. I have been loading on 550s and 650s for 20+ years, lots of experience with those. I got the add on items that seemed to make sense and were recommended the most and installed ( light, springs etc). I dis-assembled cleaned and lubricated the press. It is in pretty much new condition. So I started loading and have been running into some issues that I hope folks here can help with. My issues seem to be common, but I have not found direct answers to "why" or how to fix. The 1050 is set up for 223, and makes excellent ammo with a few problems: First, priming. about once in 75-100 or so it "misses" a primer - the primer seems to get hung up, bent up or just does not end up in the case. Needless to say , the biggest issue is the ball powder going all over on the shell plate , making a mess and hanging up the other stations. I noted that this loader seems to have the older rubber roller on the primer feed slide. causes ? Fixes ? I saw the decap pin solution, and I note the Delrin roller available .... the clear cover "might" help but I am not sure it would be something I would look at. Second, Case feed. runs along just fine then the case rim fails to engage in the shell plate, either jamming it up or popping out the case. It seems to have gotten worse as I load more. It does not seem to be an issue with the shell plate, or at least with a specific location on the plate. The speed of moving the handle /shell plate does not seem to effect it. I see cam and roller replacements, but does this seem to solve the problem ? What other causes/solutions have others seen ? Those seem to be the big ones for me. Anything else we need to watch for ? Discussion will be appreciated . Thanks -

Last summer I bought two Square deal Bs plus powder, bullets and "stuff" for $300. Sold one (38spec/357) on ebay for $300. Sent the other (45ACP) in for a rebuild, they just replaced it for free ( I was going to pay for a rebuild) with a new press. I keep my eyes open, watch CL, local auctions and other venues, and find really good deals. Some really over priced too, but I walk if it is not something I can use for a good deal. The "hunt" is fun, and I end up with more presses than I can really set up at this point. That is why one 550 ( out of 5 ) and 1 650 ( out of 3) will go on the block this summer after I stock up on the ammo they are used for.

Well, seller advertised it on Craigs list - he got it from an older guy he knows who bought it thinking he wanted to load 223 for his JP target rifle - (this was clearly not a good choice for this) neither one of them knew how to reload, and current owner decided to sell. He looked up pricing- and I told him what they sell for new. He was "make an offer" and I was "what do you want for it". did that for a few minutes then I said "OK- how about $800 ? " and he agreed. told him again it was worth more, but he said it was going to a good home - enjoy it. I will. I have picked up several Dillon loaders over the years, got some killer deals. This is the first 1050 type machine I have been on the spot for. I would feel bad low balling a seller who did not know any better and feel folks need to treat others like they would like to be treated - Karma and all that. I will probably be selling a 550 and a 650, so will pass on the good deal tot he next owners .