lucas Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Currently on Shot Gun Technical there is a 12 min of quad loading tips. The loading port is heavily opened up with both of the sides angled down towards the barrel. This I see a lot on shotguns used by pro shooters and other fast movers. You can not do that on a 1301 because of the serial number on one side is in the way. As a result there is little to know fudge factor with the 1301, it seems. I assume the serial number can not legally be moved ,so what about lowering only the other side which since I am loading strong hand anyway might be a benefit ,or will the other side that can not be lowered get in the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) Just go down to the SN on one side and really far down on the other. That worked out well for me since I reload from the side opposite the SN and that is where I really want to get low. Edited July 31, 2014 by alma Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 You do not need to remove anywhere near the amount in the recent video to load Quads at full speed. Funneling the loading port and polishing will do at least as much, plus, you lose too much structural integrity and that ain't good! The angle is better than the square cut some guys are doing on a mill regardless of depth. But, yes, the serial number can be moved by a properly licensed FFL. There is some benefit to removing a little more material on the side your loading hand is on to help keep the shells aligned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lead-Head Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 1301 with serial number in tact by RAS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EaZeNuTZ33 Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 You don't NEED the loading port opened as much as mine, but when you're trying to get faster and faster you start looking for areas that could make it possible. With the receiver thickness and strength of my M2, I'm comfortable with where it is now. If you aren't trying to be the fastest, a standard loading port job will work fine for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 I am going to lower the one side which I believe will enhance my quad loads. However, I need to know at what angle and how low is recommended. For example, where do I start. The entire length or start funneling down midway or from the beginning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Go to the 1301 Comp thread in shotgun technical section. There's about 10 examples there. Or go to Redneck tactical on Facebook and look there.DVC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solidgun Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 I can quad load 12 shells in less than 5 seconds under optimal conditions with the loading port opened up only slightly. Too bad I suck at shooting the shotgun, but I am working on that.... Perhaps it helps to have it opened wider when moving and loading, but I switch back to weak hand loading if I need to move a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Ive been working on a buddies 1301 to open up his loading port... got the sides lowered and opened up some, and blended with the end of the port over the follower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 One from the side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 I am having C-RUMS angle down one side and lesson the tension on the lifter. The lifter as it it is now wants to push up the second shell during the start of the quad load and may alone be the biggest cause of my problem . We will see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headworked Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) Lucas, I'm going to do same to gun in pic above, and reduce spring pressure... I saw where Jadedlade cut three coils off, an felt like he could do more. Edited August 11, 2014 by Headworked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 I hope C- Rums figured it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Therealkoop Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 That M2 has a very aggressive slope on the loading port. I dont doubt it helps, however mine is probably 1/3rd the depth of his and I have no problem quadloading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I also ground 3 coils off the lifter spring.....it is better but still is slightly stiffer than a friends M2......I think 1/2 to 1 more coil should do the trick. So far I only have like 200 rnds thru the gun including Winchester 2.75 dram AA's with no failures of any kind! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iowashooter Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 My cousin was having the same issue and the remedy was to bevel the lip that you are stubbing on in towards the mag tube rather than beveling it up so it funnels them into the tube. Be carful if you have extended the port forward so you don't remove too much but for him it didn't take much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 (edited) Having the one side of the loading port angled lower and a lifter with less tension is definitely an improvement. However, being able to lower the other side of the port also would have been best. Edited August 21, 2014 by lucas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 I will post some pics of my mods soon. I took down the non serial number side about .200 more than the serial number side....also ground some of the shell stop off to allow the shells a smoother ride in....still needs some more work on that......as far as angling and contouring goes...it should go torwards funneling the shells into the tube if at all possible.....there just isnt a lot of meat on the reciever to do this....so take it slow..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustbuster1 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Hope this helps Dremel w polishing compound Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Mine begins higher at the stock end but gradually sloped down to where yours is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 (edited) Is that the famous Dave Marques with the fantastic New Jersey crew at Task Force Dagger last year? Like what you guys are doing Headworked, et al, pretty cool to get in on a new gun that starts out really good, and can be customized per shooter choice. I'm still running the 3 coils cut , ordered some more springs to go farther, because this setup is running so well and I didn't want to interrupt my assessment. I'm finally settled on no clamp, +8 Nordic tube for 12+1 and maybe 1" or 2 " at most cut off the mag spring. I haven't cut my rails down as much as you all, but I will be, just want to keep testing splits, slugs and reliability. So far, at around 1000 rounds through this setup, no problems. Main problem is the one we are all having it seems, mag spring making second shell of a two pass pop out onto lifter. My issue with the quad load is the second set of shells getting caught on the receiver and the forearm, not really the shells going into mag chamber. My technique is better. Got some tips from Eric Eckhardt. Splits around .19-.22. Trying to keep on targets, not just go fast splits. Dremel away. Edited August 27, 2014 by Jadeslade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 I don't know about famous....but I am unfortunately from NJ. Thanks for the kind words......I loved the TFD match and had a lot of fun ! Now let's see if I can post pics from my phone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Pics were too big for one post - so I apologize. I would also like to thank Neomet for his help! Also - I was off on how much I cut down the non-serial number side- it is only .100" lower. My next steps are to contour the trigger group to allow it to help center the shells in the loading port. The first picture is the most important one - there is very little meat to contour the receiver to have the shells feed into the magazine tube - it is maybe .060" to play with and the very bottom of the receiver - I would only shape this with files - by hand. The major re-contouring of the sides of the receiver you can do with files or rotary tools - BUT only use powered tools if you have good technique! Aluminum vanishes pretty quickly if you are not careful. The other pictures are just some different views of the modifications. You can see I have not removed material from the forward-most portion of the loading area. I still have not figured out what I want to do yet- I just started with quad loading practice – and don’t have enough technique going to figure out what to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Ok - here is the first pic - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now