Dave Marques Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 A different view...you can see a bit of anodizing torwards the front of the loading port - I did not do anything there yet. Oh - yea - there is a blind hole where the recoil spring assembly fits - it is a blind hole ....but by my estimates it is only .060" away from being a thru hole.....so if you do remove any material from that leading edge - there is a good chance you will break through. Not sure if it is a bad thing- structurally I don’t think it matters – but you will have a hole to chamfer so that it does not catch.-----just something to think about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 This last pic shows how close I got to the SN - you can get very close - just use masking tape to cover the SN and hand file or dremel to it - but not past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 (edited) Good pictures. I sanded the sharp edge of the hand guard that you pass over with the second set of shells. Seemed to help a little. I'm finding that the technique is probably the most important-how you grip the shells and how you curl your fingers, so I'm just practicing over and over. Edited August 28, 2014 by Jadeslade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joelpend Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 The serial number can be moved legally on firearms. I inquired at my regional ATF office and was told that you must me a Manufacturer to move the serial number, a Class 7 FFL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 Apparently , it is somewhat of an inconvenience when I asked about moving the serial number from who I have had all the work done. I learned a long time ago never ask a gun smith to do something they would rather not. For me, having one side lowered is an improvement, but it needs both sides lowered to be optimal. I have sent my 1301 in twice now , and I am past the point of no return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I took a belt sander to my forearm again - I sanded off the checkering on the first 4 inches. I also clipped another 1/2 a coil off the lifter spring - so I cut off a total of 3.5 coils - I am going to compare it to my friends M2 - at 3 coils cut - my lifter was still a little stiffer. I will post again when I test the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterdog Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Dave - did sanding off the forearm help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Yes it did - before the sanding - I would constantly hit that ledge. I sanded and tapered it ...almost feathered it ...now the forearm is not any part of the problem - it is now just my technique! If only I could sand my fingers down and get the same result! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I have been practicing about 1 hr a day for the last week. Just got the Invictus 12.XXXX on a belt mount. I can do 8 seconds with 12 rnds and now 6 seconds with 8 rnds. I do weakhand quad loading. Those times include taking an aimed shot after the reload and starting with the gun mounted on target.....so all-in-all not too bad for one week.....I think........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sako92S Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Geometry of the port opening depends on which hand you are using for loading 2/4. For the weak hand it's different than strong hand (shoulder type loading). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 How about a tutorial on removing the lifter spring for dummies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Ok - its really simple..refer to the two schematics from Brownells: http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Beretta-/1301-Competition-sid1060.aspx Take a brass drift pin and push out Pin (20). This allows Trigger group (31) to be removed. It should tip out at the end of the lifter and then pull it forward a little then it should pull straight down and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Now refer to : http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Beretta-/1301-Competition-Trigger-sid1061.aspx Remove D ring (70) and pull pin (85) out from the other side as it is stepped. Be careful and hold the lifter (69) in place - it will want to spring forward. Note pin (81) holds lever (71) in place and can fall out easily. As you remove the carrier you will release the lifter spring (73) and and guide pin (72). Spring (73) is it. Also be aware that plate (74) can fall out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Thanks. Usually I shoots springs across the room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 No problemmo - I did make some other mods to the trigger guard and smoothed out some other edges that were making my thumb raw - I will post some pics later. While all the mods help, it is practice that makes the real difference IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I snipped off a few coils as directed and managed to not shoot the spring across the room. Of course that D ring did not fare so well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 Yea - i had put an AR upper together and lost the c clip for the dust cover....and didnt have a spare - fun looking for needles in haystacks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 All it does is hold the trigger pin in. A little duct tape should fix it as the bailing wire was too large... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremekramer Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 I lost mine when taking it apart to send off the lifter to c-rums. A magnet is what found it for me! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 I found everything but with a magnet. I was doing it sitting on the couch watching TV. If my wife came out when I dropped my drawers to see if it got caught in my waistband, I am sure she would have me in therapy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 OK Update as promised - shot a match today - about 100 rnds - no failures of any kind with the 3.5 coils cut. Also attaching some pics of final mods: Forearm Sanding - not pretty but it works: And final trigger guard mods for helping to guide the shells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Marques Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 The above pic of the trigger group also shows how the front of the trigger group is chamfered into the load port and all transitions are blended together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pperez550 Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 I boight a +5 Nordic Components tube extension and cut the mag spring to the indicated 16" past the end of the tube. Initially with dummy rounds and then with live firing this has proven reliable. How much more have folks cut down the mag tube spring to make it easier to load? Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremekramer Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) Most people are cutting them at 12" past if you look back through the 1301 thread. I cut mine at 12" and haven't had any issues. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Edited September 21, 2014 by xtremekramer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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