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Door Construction For Ipsc Stage?


mgmcaleer

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I need a good plan on how to construct a door frame and support system for use in indoor IPSC matches. I need to build it sturdy enough so that the gorillas that get carried away when the signal sounds don't rip it off it's hinges. The support system also needs to be removable for storage. I have a door that was left by my builder that I will use. It is a standard bedroom door.

Thanks for your help.

Mike

A-48887

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Mike,

I'm not a carpenter, but the one thing I'd suggest is making the door a "pull" door rather than a "push" door - it'll survive a helluva lot longer - and you won't need to build frame supports to Fort Knox standards.

Bedroom doors are usually hollow and are less durable than "street" doors, which are often solid wood and are heavier to mount and support.

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The local matches here in Ohio, Rayner's Range, uses steel fence posts that they drive into the ground on either side of the door. Pretty heavy-duty.

Of course, coming from a farming background, they have a home-made pile driving tool that slips over the top of the metal post to assist in driving it into the ground.

The post are the same as used in STOP signs and such.

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At most any local hardware store you can buy Pre-Hung Interior door units for about $50-$70. What that means is that the door already hinged on a pine frame with the door stop installed. You would only need to add a cheap interior lockset or pull, and then fasten some 2x4's for braces and you should be good to go.

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Is the door pre-hung? That is does it have at least a casing around it or do you simply have the door panel? We have one at the local club that was a pre-hung. We made a frame to go around it and a box that lies on the floor to support it all out of 2x4s. We used angle braces that go from one end of the "box" to a point about three feet up on the side frame. The door casing is bolted to the box and the angle braces are bolted with wing nuts on them to facilitate disassembly. The door and casing stay attached at the bottom to the box and we unbolt one end of the angle braces. This allows the box to fold almost up against the door for storage. I can take pictures and post if the explanation is not clear.

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We've got one sorta like IPSCDRL mentioned. There are two large 2x4 inverted- T supports for either side of the door and a crosspiece that goes across the top. The while thing is pinned together with some large metal pins so it can be disassembled for storage.

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Indoors??? That makes a difference.

:unsure:

The doors the BigDave mentioned come from the home center with frames attached. They aren't very sturdy, however. Those frames are designed to be screwed into 2x4 stud walls/frames for support.

Most of those cheaper doors are hollow, and made of stuff that won't stand up to weather very well. They will warp, and could present a "different stage design" to competitors over the period of a match.

(just stuff I've noticed)

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Yes - a pre-hung door consists of the door panel, hinges, jamb (frame), stop and casing. Basically, door in a frame. I recommended the interior pre-hung door, which are usually hollow-core, b/c it would be used on the interior. And yes, in and of itself, the pre-hung unit isn't very strong, but with some inexpensive braces, it will be strong enough. After all, I don't think it will be kicked open (although I could be wrong).

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If I get my way at our local matches we will do away with doors and just have door frames. If you want to slow em down put a no shoot just inside or outside of the door way. The door always seems to be broken or sticks or gets ripped off the hinges or a new shooter points his gun at his hand or.......... Did I mention that I don't like doors. Still, a good way to support the frame indoors? I can't imagine what would stablize such a heavy prop without anchors.

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Mike,

I don't know exactly how you plan to have the shooters go through the door but the method our club uses is 4 foot long 2X4's with 2 foot triangular gussets screwed to the doorframe and 2X4. We are using this outside with landscape nails but indoors you might be able to use sandbags.

I love doors and I am designing a stage with 2 doors 8 foot apart that activate swingers to accomodate left/right handed shooters. The swingers also have a popper to activate for the unused door. It will have barriers creating 3 different shooting areas with 9 rounds per location. The popper will still be there on both side even though the swinger on 1 side is activated by the door.

It makes Revolver shooters do 3 standing reloads but everyone in the division is doing the same thing. Limited would need at least 2 mags and Production & Limited 10 would need 3. But it pushes open shooters to decide if they want to plan in a mag change or not.

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