10mm Glock for 40s&w ammo that ain't perfect?

[ninefan]

Could I pick up a 10mm Glock to shoot all of the ammo I end up with that won't chamber check perfectly in my 2011? It's all loaded to 1.190", so it won't fit in the 40cal Glock mags. But, would it run through a 10mm Glock?

I know the 40cal factory Glock chambers are loose as heck, but are the 10mm Glock chambers the same on the factory barrels?

The thought of pulling apart a year or two worth of non-perfect ammo doesn't sound like much fun. It would be much more cool to blast it through a Glock or something.

Anybody?

[MemphisMechanic]

Could I pick up a 10mm Glock to shoot all of the ammo I end up with that won't chamber check perfectly in my 2011? It's all loaded to 1.190", so it won't fit in the 40cal Glock mags. But, would it run through a 10mm Glock?

I know the 40cal factory Glock chambers are loose as heck, but are the 10mm Glock chambers the same on the factory barrels?

The thought of pulling apart a year or two worth of non-perfect ammo doesn't sound like much fun. It would be much more cool to blast it through a Glock or something.

Anybody?

You know you're going to need a .40 caliber barrel, right? Headspacing is done on the case mouth, so you can't just slop a .40 in a 10mm barrel and hope it goes bang. It's not like a wheelgun with moonclips.

Why not just buy a Glock 22 or 35?

Edited January 1, 2010 by MemphisMechanic

[dirty whiteboy]

yes, I have shot thousands of 40's (factory & long loaded) out of a G-20.

Clean the chamber before going back to 10mm loads.

[dirty whiteboy]

Could I pick up a 10mm Glock to shoot all of the ammo I end up with that won't chamber check perfectly in my 2011? It's all loaded to 1.190", so it won't fit in the 40cal Glock mags. But, would it run through a 10mm Glock?

I know the 40cal factory Glock chambers are loose as heck, but are the 10mm Glock chambers the same on the factory barrels?

The thought of pulling apart a year or two worth of non-perfect ammo doesn't sound like much fun. It would be much more cool to blast it through a Glock or something.

Anybody?

You know you're going to need a .40 caliber barrel, right? Headspacing is done on the case mouth, so you can't just slop a .40 in a 10mm barrel and hope it goes bang...

Why not just buy a Glock 22 or 35?

The rounds won't fit in a small frame mag.

It will work, I have tested it thousands of times.

Edited January 1, 2010 by dirty whiteboy

[G-ManBart]

Could I pick up a 10mm Glock to shoot all of the ammo I end up with that won't chamber check perfectly in my 2011? It's all loaded to 1.190", so it won't fit in the 40cal Glock mags. But, would it run through a 10mm Glock?

I know the 40cal factory Glock chambers are loose as heck, but are the 10mm Glock chambers the same on the factory barrels?

The thought of pulling apart a year or two worth of non-perfect ammo doesn't sound like much fun. It would be much more cool to blast it through a Glock or something.

Anybody?

You know you're going to need a .40 caliber barrel, right? Headspacing is done on the case mouth, so you can't just slop a .40 in a 10mm barrel and hope it goes bang. It's not like a wheelgun with moonclips.

Why not just buy a Glock 22 or 35?

In many situations .40 will shoot in a 10mm. It's being held in place by the extractor, but that's normally enough for it to work. It's not ideal for accuracy, but it probably wouldn't be terrible. R,

[ninefan]

Cool, thanks guys. If I find a deal on a 10mm I'll probably pick one up just for kicks.

[MemphisMechanic]

Wow... Learn something every day. Never would have imagined you'd get halfway decent extraction, or reliable operation, out of it.

Edited January 2, 2010 by MemphisMechanic

[Sean Gaines]

couldn't you just buy a .40 cal barrel for your glock and ream out the ogive, for your legnth issue.

[lucasb67]

you can but I think it isn't a good idea, the extractor can suffer a lot

[ninefan]

couldn't you just buy a .40 cal barrel for your glock and ream out the ogive, for your legnth issue.

The problem is that the G22 magazines will only feed to about 1.135" OAL on the cartridges. Now if I could get the 20SF magazines to somehow fit into a G22 frame, that would be useful! All my loads are pretty far into major PF at 1.190" with Titegroup, and I imagine that the pressures are quite up there. I don't feel comfortable reseating them to 1.135" to get them to feed in a G22. There's about an 8000 psi difference in pressure between those two lengths! I think that could be asking for trouble.

I guess I could fit a barrel to the 2011 that is reamed out to all heck, but it still seems like a better idea to put the "castoffs" into something less expensive to destroy. I'd probably be cool with even running partially split cases in a Glock!

[dcalvert]

90% of my 40 long ammo that do not make the gauge will still run reliably

in my STI limited gun. I throw them in a box and take them out during a

practice session when a malfunction is not a big deal.

You will be surprised how few will stop the gun. Besides it is good to practice

clearing the gun when one does.

dcalvert

[mildot1]

It may not be considered a acceptable practice by the die maker, here is my cheap remedy.

I run the loaded rounds that will not case gauge thru a redding GRX die.

Since I started running my once fired brass thru it my failure to case gauge rate is almost nil anyway!

The few that still won't gauge will fall in after a trip thru the die.

Mildot

[LPatterson]

It may not be considered a acceptable practice by the die maker, here is my cheap remedy.

I run the loaded rounds that will not case gauge thru a redding GRX die.

Since I started running my once fired brass thru it my failure to case gauge rate is almost nil anyway!

The few that still won't gauge will fall in after a trip thru the die.

Mildot

This sounds like you are really abusing the bullet as my resizing die takes the outside case mouth to .412 and I am crimping at .422. So it sounds like you are resizing the bullet and case about .010 and the case neck tension is what holds the bullet in place. All that needs to happen with your bullets is to hit the feed ramp wrong and suffer setback and you might be in for a shattering experience.

[big_kahuna]

90% of my 40 long ammo that do not make the gauge will still run reliably

in my STI limited gun. I throw them in a box and take them out during a

practice session when a malfunction is not a big deal.

You will be surprised how few will stop the gun. Besides it is good to practice

clearing the gun when one does.

dcalvert

I'm with dcalvert on this one. Use the imperfect rounds in practice sessions with the 2011. Record how many rounds you fired and how many actually stopped the gun. You might be surprised at how few are actually problematic.

Buying a whole new gun just to burn gauge-failure ammo seems a little extreme... I wouldn't do it.

More important questions are HOW and WHY you have so many rounds that fail the gauge. What is your defect rate? Are you using a case-pro or EGW undersize die? Are your bullets oversized or irregular? Find the cause and fix it.

[Aglifter]

What about a 610 S&W?

[RufDog]

sounds like the perfect excuse to buy a 10mm Glock

[ninefan]

90% of my 40 long ammo that do not make the gauge will still run reliably

in my STI limited gun. I throw them in a box and take them out during a

practice session when a malfunction is not a big deal.

You will be surprised how few will stop the gun. Besides it is good to practice

clearing the gun when one does.

dcalvert

I'm with dcalvert on this one. Use the imperfect rounds in practice sessions with the 2011. Record how many rounds you fired and how many actually stopped the gun. You might be surprised at how few are actually problematic.

Buying a whole new gun just to burn gauge-failure ammo seems a little extreme... I wouldn't do it.

More important questions are HOW and WHY you have so many rounds that fail the gauge. What is your defect rate? Are you using a case-pro or EGW undersize die? Are your bullets oversized or irregular? Find the cause and fix it.

I certainly do use imperfect rounds as practice ammo. Unfortunately there are some that I won't bother shooting even in practice. On the progressive I hit everything with a Hornady die first, then a EGW U-die. On most brass this is fine, but on some bad Glocked brass it just serves to push a ton of metal down towards the base of the case. A bad batch of Glocked brass will have 5% failure rate (sometimes more if it was a lot of junky S&B cases fired through a Glock... ugh). A good lot of brass (like stuff fired from my own pistol) will be more like 1%.

Some brass just has a bunged up rim from the extraction from whatever random pistol they had been fired from. These could probably be solved forever with a light swipe of a file. That would be tedious though. A better solution would be a 10mm Glock with a nice heavy factory recoil spring to ram anything into battery!

Hmm... 10mm Auto. Same dies... Same bullets. Same shellplate. Different brass. Sounds like a fun caliber to experiment with!

So right now it appears to be a choice between a Case-Pro and a 10mm Glock. Still, the Case Pro won't fix the bunged up case rims, will it?

[ninefan]

What about a 610 S&W?

Oh, that IS a good idea! That's a bit pricey compared to a Glock, but it SURE WOULD be a lot of FUN!

[big_kahuna]

A better solution would be a 10mm Glock with a nice heavy factory recoil spring to ram anything into battery!

Hmm... 10mm Auto. Same dies... Same bullets. Same shellplate. Different brass. Sounds like a fun caliber to experiment with!

So right now it appears to be a choice between a Case-Pro and a 10mm Glock. Still, the Case Pro won't fix the bunged up case rims, will it?

Hmmm... when you put it that way... a new 10mm Glock or 610 sounds pretty good

[ajg308]

Wow... Learn something every day. Never would have imagined you'd get halfway decent extraction, or reliable operation, out of it.

It does work, but my experience is that after a couple hundred rounds it starts to get too dirty to operate 100%.

[dirty whiteboy]

you can but I think it isn't a good idea, the extractor can suffer a lot

Good point. I actually carried an extra G-20 extractor with me for this reason. I estimate I shot about 5-6 thousand 40 s&w rounds.(GF shot another 2-3 thousand).

[mildot1]

It may not be considered a acceptable practice by the die maker, here is my cheap remedy.

I run the loaded rounds that will not case gauge thru a redding GRX die.

Since I started running my once fired brass thru it my failure to case gauge rate is almost nil anyway!

The few that still won't gauge will fall in after a trip thru the die.

Mildot

This sounds like you are really abusing the bullet as my resizing die takes the outside case mouth to .412 and I am crimping at .422. So it sounds like you are resizing the bullet and case about .010 and the case neck tension is what holds the bullet in place. All that needs to happen with your bullets is to hit the feed ramp wrong and suffer setback and you might be in for a shattering experience.

How can running a loaded round thru a full length sizing die affect or cause"bullet setback" ?? The round has already been sized and crimped, if anything the crimp might be tighter than normal.

Anyway I have seen no sign's IE: pressure or feeding problems to date to stop me from using this process. I beleive I have read on earlier posts of guys doing the same thing with no adverse effects.

Mildot

[lucasb67]

you can but I think it isn't a good idea, the extractor can suffer a lot

Good point. I actually carried an extra G-20 extractor with me for this reason. I estimate I shot about 5-6 thousand 40 s&w rounds.(GF shot another 2-3 thousand).

... thanks to glock exeptional quality standards!!