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Help please - Brass Tilt, Super 1050, Super Comp, ugh.


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Folks-

Have a new Super 1050 wand got all to work sweet EXCEPT for every 8-10 rounds brass is either (1) jamming the shell plate when fed in or (2) fed on top of the shell plate. Starline NEW (never fired) brass. Unlubed.

Seems to have Dillon baffled. Ive replaced virtually every part including the shell plate (#3). Ive adjusted the shell plate up and down in lots of positions and cant seem to make it go away.

Im sure one of you brave souls have dealt with this.

Thank you,

Jay

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try tighten the shell plate they say 1/8 but try tighter a little bit at a time, the hex bolts on the shell plate holder try tighten or loosen the front one by the case feeder arm,take the case feeder arm apart and look for machine marks and polish it if nessary when your done clean all the parts up and grease them this help my case fedding problem,let us know if this helps

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Jay, I normally cut off 1-2 coils off of the casefeed plunger spring ( buy a couple extra and have them on hand before you experiment.... ;) This will allow the plunger to slide them in smoother instead of "snapping" the brass in there. When I am loading and in the rhythm they just slide in. Obviously you are keeping media and gunk out of the recesses on the shellplate, but that can be a pain too.

I also keep the shellplate loose enough that I can rotate the shellplate easily by hand.

Another thing to look at is the case head rim on the brass. I know I have found that some brass that didnt get case-proed correctly fattened the rim and they wouldn't fit into the shellplate.

Hope this is helpful!

DougC

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Be sure the roller on the case feed plunger bolt is greased both inside and out, and that the roller bolt is tight. For proper shellplate lockring tension, if you push down on the edge of the shellplate at the bullet seating station, it should not feel springy. If it does, tighten the lock ring a tiny bit more. Be sure the underside of the lock ring is greased where it contacts the top of the shellplate.

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Hi. i replaced the shell plate to no avail. went back to original plate and ground the shell holes so there were no sharp angles. Then polished them. Helped a bit. Basically I have the top half off and push brass in through the plunger. Shells dont reliably go into the holes in the shell plate when pushed in. Ive experimented with different heights of the shell plate. Im using new (never fired starline).

The shell plunger does have a snap to it so I can go to the cutting of the spring route...

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Push the brass in by hand. See if the brass is hitting the edge of the shellplate before it even gets to the "slot" in the shellplate where the brass rides around the machine. On one of my machines I had to take a piece of feeler gauge and epoxy it under the sliding assembly that carries the brass as it was to low when it got to the shell plate.

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Be sure the roller on the case feed plunger bolt is greased both inside and out, and that the roller bolt is tight. For proper shellplate lockring tension, if you push down on the edge of the shellplate at the bullet seating station, it should not feel springy. If it does, tighten the lock ring a tiny bit more.

Is that with the Shellplate empty Gary?

be

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I had that issue with new starline brass a few years ago, about 100 of the 1000 I bought were out of spec and would not feed in my 650. Called starline and they said it was an issue with the brass.

Edited by wooddog
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Folks-

Have a new Super 1050 wand got all to work sweet EXCEPT for every 8-10 rounds brass is either (1) jamming the shell plate when fed in or (2) fed on top of the shell plate. Starline NEW (never fired) brass. Unlubed.

Seems to have Dillon baffled. Ive replaced virtually every part including the shell plate (#3). Ive adjusted the shell plate up and down in lots of positions and cant seem to make it go away.

Im sure one of you brave souls have dealt with this.

Thank you,

Jay

I had the same issue with new Super 1050 last month... they told me it will get better as the plate "breaks in"... well, after hundreds of rounds it did... now it is pretty much trouble-free.

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I had to polish the sharp corners on the shell plate in each location to a small radius

That stopped 99.9% of all fail to feed case

Jim

Ditto on that for me with 40 S&W. Used a Dremel Tool with a polishing tool and slightly radiused each side of the opening where the case goes in the Shellplate.

be

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since posting this over two weeks ago seems like a lot of people fall into the same camp. Dillon and BE if you are monitoring, what you think ? Im still having this issue although its gotten a bit better with grinding the shell plate. Just put on the PW autodrive so well so how that helps with more steady pulls....

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since posting this over two weeks ago seems like a lot of people fall into the same camp. Dillon and BE if you are monitoring, what you think ? Im still having this issue although its gotten a bit better with grinding the shell plate. Just put on the PW autodrive so well so how that helps with more steady pulls....

Has the problem gotten better with the autodrive?

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When we get the opportunity we're going to set up a 1050 in supercomp and run it and see what we find.

Thanks. By way of update the autodrive connected and it rocks! cant believe more people dont use it. ill post a vid when i get a chance.

One thought about the brass tilt (still happening). I have two stations that stick a bit (create vibration) that may be impacting the brass tilt situation. One is the powder funnel that creates the flair. The other is the last crimping station which I use a Lee die for. Becuase the machine grabs for just a moment at each of these stations one hypothesis is that this creates a little jump and prevents the case plunger from seating the empty brass properly.

So, do you guys get the same grabbing effect at these two stations ? If the answer is no how do you properly flair and crimp on your machine ?

Again:

* New Starline .38 SC brass

* KISS

Thanks,

Jay

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  • 4 weeks later...

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