STI Trojan trigger job

[z06pilot]

I would like a 2lb trigger pull for my STI Trojan, any recomendations for a smith? I live in south eastern Wisconsin, and would preffer a local smith to avoid shipping charges, but will ship it out if need be.

[Pat Miles]

Ask other shooters in your club about local smiths, specifically about trigger work. I would also strongly suggest that you learn all of the safety function checks and make double damn sure you check them on your gun when you get it back from whoever. Shoot about 10 mags with ONLY 2 rounds in them so you KNOW the gun will not possibly go auto. Things do happen.

CYa,

Pat

[dapribek]

Dan Bedell in Lancaster, NY, 716-681-2248, does excellent work. It would be well worth the effort to ship your gun to him if he has time to do the work. Hope this helps.

[G-ManBart]

2lbs is going to require a good smith, good parts and a little bit of luck on your side if it's going to be 100% reliable. If the hole spacing isn't perfect and very square/parallel to one another, it may not be possible without a LOT of work.

I had Matt McLearn do a reliability package and trigger job on my Trojan (sent him all new fire control parts) and he got it down to 2.5lbs, but it's so crisp it feels lighter. I actually thought it was 2lbs until I tested it with my digital trigger pull gauge. I'd told him 2.5lbs or lighter and crisp would be fine so I'd guess he erred on the side of reliability rather than trying to get the last couple of ounces out of it.

[TM262]

If you choose to pick your own fire controls, the part number and link below are a popular quality set. I really like the quality and consistency of their products and use them in three different pistols.

(www.brownells.com)

Brownells P/N 206-104-000

Cylinder & Slide Ultra Lite Set

[CSEMARTIN]

What is your budget?

Why 2#'s?

I think G-ManBart is dead on. A crisp 2.5# trigger will feel incredibly light. From personal experience, I've noticed reliability starts to go way down below 2.5#'s.

And I'm not sure you'll be able to get a safe/reliable 2# trigger with factory STI trojan parts.

The Extreme Engineering kits are wonderful.

[ParaGunner]

I recomend installing a Infinity titanium tri glide sear spring for $30 from Brownells. I have installed several in my guns and friends with great success. It normally drops 2-3lbs of the trigger pull,some minor fitting to get it in the frame and possibly some tweaking of the middle leaf for a positive trigger reset. The pull on my competition gun went from 5.25lbs to 2.5lbs just by installing this sear spring,and it's a series 80. If you do install it make sure you do all the safety checks and test firing with all your mags to make sure your trigger resets with all mags. I don't ever plan on paying for a trigger job,I'll just buy the Infinity tri-glide sear spring,they make one for single and double stack 1911s. Here is the link- http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/pro...st=&s=30273

[RH45]

I would like a 2lb trigger pull for my STI Trojan, any recomendations for a smith? I live in south eastern Wisconsin, and would preffer a local smith to avoid shipping charges, but will ship it out if need be.

Give Rich, at Canyon Creek a call. He's only a couple of hours away.

I just picked up my Les Baer, and my Wilson from him, which I speced out at 20 oz., and although I didn't measure them, they feel SWEET!!

[z06pilot]

What is your budget?

Why 2#'s?

I think G-ManBart is dead on. A crisp 2.5# trigger will feel incredibly light. From personal experience, I've noticed reliability starts to go way down below 2.5#'s.

And I'm not sure you'll be able to get a safe/reliable 2# trigger with factory STI trojan parts.

The Extreme Engineering kits are wonderful.

I use a Smith & Wesson Model 41 for bullseye which has a 2.5lb trigger, it is very nice, but I have also tried a friends 2lb trigger, and I think that I would prefer that.

Is reliability an issue if you have someone good do the job?

I don't really want to spend over $200, but I would consider spending more if I have to. The main issue right now is turn around time. If there is a quick fix to drop the pull weight to 2.5lbs, I would do that for now. Is the SVI roller spring thing the way to go?

[G-ManBart]

What is your budget?

Why 2#'s?

I think G-ManBart is dead on. A crisp 2.5# trigger will feel incredibly light. From personal experience, I've noticed reliability starts to go way down below 2.5#'s.

And I'm not sure you'll be able to get a safe/reliable 2# trigger with factory STI trojan parts.

The Extreme Engineering kits are wonderful.

I use a Smith & Wesson Model 41 for bullseye which has a 2.5lb trigger, it is very nice, but I have also tried a friends 2lb trigger, and I think that I would prefer that.

Is reliability an issue if you have someone good do the job?

I don't really want to spend over $200, but I would consider spending more if I have to. The main issue right now is turn around time. If there is a quick fix to drop the pull weight to 2.5lbs, I would do that for now. Is the SVI roller spring thing the way to go?

I dont' have any experience with the SV setup so I can't help there. I have seen quite a few guns with 2lb triggers start having problems as wear takes it's toll. A good, crisp 2.5lb trigger done by someone that knows what they're doing should last a long, long time without needing any attention. At 2lbs it's hard to to say if it will last.

There's a good chance that you could drop the Extreme kit in your gun and get a 2.5lb trigger without any problems and if you do send it to a smith, those parts will be easier for them to get really nice than the factory sear and hammer will. I put an Extreme kit in my Edge and got it down to just a hair over 2lbs and it seemed fine, but I bumped it up to 2.5lbs just to be on the safe side and it's never failed. R,

[CSEMARTIN]

Is reliability an issue if you have someone good do the job?

Great question. Let's ask RH45 what Rich used to get his trigger down to 20 ounces? Stock parts?

[RH45]

Is reliability an issue if you have someone good do the job?

Great question. Let's ask RH45 what Rich used to get his trigger down to 20 ounces? Stock parts?

I know that Rich had to replace some of the parts, but, every gun is different, so what one gun needs isn't always what the next one does.

After Dan Bedell built my "shorty" open gun, back in 2004, I bought a new .40 Eagle for IDPA and asked him to set it up with the same grip, trigger, ect and it came back to me with a 20 oz. trigger that has lasted since then, but, he had to replace all of the internals.

[JoshF]

I'm having mine done right now by a very well known smith on the factory internals. He's given me an estimate of 2.75lbs. I'll let you know how that turns out.

[TCKev]

Benny Hill is doing my Trojan but not that light 2 1/2 to 3lb's

[TISCHLJ]

I've had super success with the Cylinder and Slide Ultra lite sets at 2.25-2.5# in my SS and LTD guns.

Just picked up the new Cyl and slide ultra lite speed 2 kits looks very promising and it still has a little spur for the operator to pull back on for dry firing ease.

As a rule for a drop in the c/s kits are top notch and will hold up to the competitive shooter.

Note: good pins make a difference- c/s has a nice set of polished TIN pins that go nicely with these kits. . . .

Usually I adjust the sear spring for proper tension on the legs, polish the inside of the m/s housing as applicable and its good to go.

never tried the extreme kits but I understand they are about the same as the c/s kits.

[G-ManBart]

never tried the extreme kits but I understand they are about the same as the c/s kits.

The C&S, Extreme and Brazos kits are all the same. R,

[chrisjohn]

My friend and gunsmith Hayden Oliver told me many times when I'd ask for a trigger less than 3 lbs that anything less than 3 lbs on a .45/.40 SS 1911 platform is a challenge to set up and the long term durability wouldn't be there. He had no problems setting 20 oz to 2 lbs for open guns on STI frames or limited guns with bull barrels as the unlocking speed and rearward recoil was somewhat reduced compared to a SS.

Trigger work is a real art and something that at some juncture I hope to learn myself as I no longer have a local gunsmith. I've spent many a good hour watching Hayden work on the various triggers of my guns and the process was not always academic. Good parts are a must. I plan on putting an extreme engineering set in the wife's 9x19 Eagle at some point.

Edited April 19, 2009 by chrisjohn

[CSEMARTIN]

I know that Rich had to replace some of the parts, but, every gun is different, so what one gun needs isn't always what the next one does.

I was trying to separate two components of a trigger job: gusmith talent and the parts used. I personally don't think you can get a safe and reliable 20 ounce trigger with stock parts. Since Rich is a well known 1911 trigger guy, I was interested to see if he is able to do a safe and reliable 20 ounce trigger. If that is the case, then it's time for me to rethink my position and do some more learning.

Note: good pins make a difference- c/s has a nice set of polished TIN pins that go nicely with these kits. . . .

If you're talking about the Cylinder and Slide over-sized pins sets (part number CS-015), you'll need to buy the reamers from Brownells.

[z06pilot]

I've had super success with the Cylinder and Slide Ultra lite sets at 2.25-2.5# in my SS and LTD guns.

Just picked up the new Cyl and slide ultra lite speed 2 kits looks very promising and it still has a little spur for the operator to pull back on for dry firing ease.

As a rule for a drop in the c/s kits are top notch and will hold up to the competitive shooter.

Note: good pins make a difference- c/s has a nice set of polished TIN pins that go nicely with these kits. . . .

Usually I adjust the sear spring for proper tension on the legs, polish the inside of the m/s housing as applicable and its good to go.

never tried the extreme kits but I understand they are about the same as the c/s kits.

Do they typically require fitting?

[G-ManBart]

I've had super success with the Cylinder and Slide Ultra lite sets at 2.25-2.5# in my SS and LTD guns.

Just picked up the new Cyl and slide ultra lite speed 2 kits looks very promising and it still has a little spur for the operator to pull back on for dry firing ease.

As a rule for a drop in the c/s kits are top notch and will hold up to the competitive shooter.

Note: good pins make a difference- c/s has a nice set of polished TIN pins that go nicely with these kits. . . .

Usually I adjust the sear spring for proper tension on the legs, polish the inside of the m/s housing as applicable and its good to go.

never tried the extreme kits but I understand they are about the same as the c/s kits.

Do they typically require fitting?

The C&S/Extreme kits generally drop in and then you just tweak the sear spring arms to set it up (I'd get a good aftermarket sear spring rather than use the factory spring). My first one took me an hour or so to get it the way I wanted, but it has stayed that way ever since. R,

[SharonAnne9x23]

C&S makes TIN pins in regular and oversize.

[TISCHLJ]

I've had super success with the Cylinder and Slide Ultra lite sets at 2.25-2.5# in my SS and LTD guns.

Just picked up the new Cyl and slide ultra lite speed 2 kits looks very promising and it still has a little spur for the operator to pull back on for dry firing ease.

As a rule for a drop in the c/s kits are top notch and will hold up to the competitive shooter.

Note: good pins make a difference- c/s has a nice set of polished TIN pins that go nicely with these kits. . . .

Usually I adjust the sear spring for proper tension on the legs, polish the inside of the m/s housing as applicable and its good to go.

never tried the extreme kits but I understand they are about the same as the c/s kits.

Do they typically require fitting?

The "fitting mine have required are:

Check disconnect, hammer and sear pin holes for burrs, make sure hammer "slot" area is smooth and free of burrs, closely inspect with maginfier the through holes on hammer and sear, smooth and polish sear sping contact points- carefully!-lube, instal, run safety checks as applicable. . .

I've never adjusted sear angles or hammer hooks.

Check hammer and sear pins for "through" length to frame for proper safety operation to get that positive feel . .

Hope this helps-

[TISCHLJ]

I know that Rich had to replace some of the parts, but, every gun is different, so what one gun needs isn't always what the next one does.

I was trying to separate two components of a trigger job: gusmith talent and the parts used. I personally don't think you can get a safe and reliable 20 ounce trigger with stock parts. Since Rich is a well known 1911 trigger guy, I was interested to see if he is able to do a safe and reliable 20 ounce trigger. If that is the case, then it's time for me to rethink my position and do some more learning.

Note: good pins make a difference- c/s has a nice set of polished TIN pins that go nicely with these kits. . . .

If you're talking about the Cylinder and Slide over-sized pins sets (part number CS-015), you'll need to buy the reamers from Brownells.

The regular one have worked fine for me. . . and yes.

[TISCHLJ]

C&S makes TIN pins in regular and oversize.

Yep< and the polished gold color adds extra "bling" ! Good product with C&S combo kits.

[mike cyrwus]

A good trigger job starts with the frame.

Someone is going to burn $200 in parts in the stroke of a stone, reading this thread.

Not everyone, just one or two.