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Rocket Connector w/ Trigger Stop


PEC-Memphis

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Rocket Connector w/ Trigger Stop

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Any body used the Ghost Rocket with the trigger overtravel stop...

Thoughts? Good - Bad - Ok.

I like the stock G34 (-) connecor - but thought this might be an easy (cheap) way to get try a trigger over travel stop.

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I have 3 glocks with 3 diffrent triggers, a vanek, a Ghost rocket, and a SJC, the vanek cost $125-200 and the SJC is listed a trigger job at $260 the Ghost is way cheaper. I like the Vanek and the SJC much better than the ghost....................But.........Like anything in life it is what you can afford. If money is tight it is not worth it to go with the better triggers, if cost is no issue get one of the better ones.

I didn't install the ghost rocket a friend did and he put a reduced power spring on the striker and I had some problems, replaced it with a stock spring and it works fine. Both of my other triggers are crisper, but the ghost is a lot better than the stock trigger, and is a lot cheaper.

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After a quick search in the Glock sub-forum, I found many references on dozens of threads. Not something that will find it's way in my Glocks. That's just me.

Jim

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Some people like them some don't. If you install it, you will have to fit the overtravel stop to your gun. This takes some experience and an orange rear slide plate thingee (technical term) or you may not be able to get your slide off the receiver while fitting it to the gun without breaking stuff.

I would not recommend fitting one to your gun unless you know what you are doing.

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Some people like them some don't. If you install it, you will have to fit the overtravel stop to your gun. This takes some experience and an orange rear slide plate thingee (technical term) or you may not be able to get your slide off the receiver while fitting it to the gun without breaking stuff.

I would not recommend fitting one to your gun unless you know what you are doing.

Interesting, I didn't know that the trigger stop connector required fitting.

It the primary purpose of fitting the connector to be able for the "trigger stop ear" to clear the slide cover plate? If so, does that mean that the "top of the ear" needs to be removed until the cover plate "clears the ear"?

As far as disassembly when the "ear interferes", you can always remove the slide cover plate (either the orange or normal) with the slide locked back while installed on the reciever.

Thanks for the replies.

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Some people like them some don't. If you install it, you will have to fit the overtravel stop to your gun. This takes some experience and an orange rear slide plate thingee (technical term) or you may not be able to get your slide off the receiver while fitting it to the gun without breaking stuff.

I would not recommend fitting one to your gun unless you know what you are doing.

Interesting, I didn't know that the trigger stop connector required fitting.

It the primary purpose of fitting the connector to be able for the "trigger stop ear" to clear the slide cover plate? If so, does that mean that the "top of the ear" needs to be removed until the cover plate "clears the ear"?

As far as disassembly when the "ear interferes", you can always remove the slide cover plate (either the orange or normal) with the slide locked back while installed on the reciever.

Thanks for the replies.

Nevermind. Just read the installation instructions at their website. Seems pretty straight forward, although perhaps time consuming.

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I use one in my G34 rig, and really like it. I've also installed several for friends. Personally, I prefer the lack of over travel, as compared to the OEM setup. If you don't file enough, the striker won't release. It's tedious a process, disassemble-file-reassemble-test, disassemble-file-reassemble-test, disassemble-file-reassemble-test, disassemble-file-reassemble-test. And of course you still have to do the 25 cent trigger job, and the competition spring kit. Like SA said, not for a person who has never disassembled a Glock before.

Ultimately it's the nut behind the gun, not what's inside, that makes the difference.

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Rocket Connector w/ Trigger Stop

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Any body used the Ghost Rocket with the trigger overtravel stop...

Thoughts? Good - Bad - Ok.

I like the stock G34 (-) connecor - but thought this might be an easy (cheap) way to get try a trigger over travel stop.

I installed mine on a model 19 and really like the way it functions. Read the directions on the website and if you are confortable with that level of disassembly, proceed with the install. Remember, the gun is not altered, only the connector is filed down. The orange plate allows you to release the firing pin when the trigger does not "dry fire" the gun. For the money, not a bad deal to get a better trigger pull.

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Rocket Connector w/ Trigger Stop

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Any body used the Ghost Rocket with the trigger overtravel stop...

Thoughts? Good - Bad - Ok.

I like the stock G34 (-) connecor - but thought this might be an easy (cheap) way to get try a trigger over travel stop.

I installed mine on a model 19 and really like the way it functions. Read the directions on the website and if you are confortable with that level of disassembly, proceed with the install. Remember, the gun is not altered, only the connector is filed down. The orange plate allows you to release the firing pin when the trigger does not "dry fire" the gun. For the money, not a bad deal to get a better trigger pull.

I fit a couple. They worked well for about 1,000 rounds, then I started getting persistent failures to reset the trigger with both.....

Replaced them with Glock connectors, and the guns ran fine again....

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I fit a couple. They worked well for about 1,000 rounds, then I started getting persistent failures to reset the trigger with both.....

Nik - file a little more of the stop off and you're good to go. You had the reset too close to the "edge."

I personally, but what you like is what's important to you. For $25 or so, it's worth a try.

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I have one on my 24 (combined with .25 trigger) and am happy with it. It's not nearly as good as the Vanek I have on the 35, but it was a lot cheaper. I do highly recomend you install it using the orange back plate cover though.

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I fit a couple. They worked well for about 1,000 rounds, then I started getting persistent failures to reset the trigger with both.....

Nik - file a little more of the stop off and you're good to go. You had the reset too close to the "edge."

I personally, but what you like is what's important to you. For $25 or so, it's worth a try.

I would --- but I don't think they made the last move 2.5 years ago.....

To me, reliability is paramount. If a trigger job works well for a 1,000 rounds and then requires attention, it's not the trigger job for me....

I'd rather learn how to shoot a heavier trigger that works 100%.....

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I think the better solution is to get the Lone wolf Ultimate Trigger Stop and use a Lone Wolf or Factory Glock 3.5# connector. The LWD trigger stop is $20. It can be done yourself with a 1/16" drill bit and a .28 cent 4-40x3/8" set screw from ACE Hardware in about 5 minutes if your mechanically inclined.

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I think the better solution is to get the Lone wolf Ultimate Trigger Stop and use a Lone Wolf or Factory Glock 3.5# connector. The LWD trigger stop is $20. It can be done yourself with a 1/16" drill bit and a .28 cent 4-40x3/8" set screw from ACE Hardware in about 5 minutes if your mechanically inclined.

Got any more info on this? I know about the LW Connector but never heard of using a set screw with it. Sounds like you could do it to a oem 3.5 as well then.

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I think he's talking about drilling a hole in the back bend of the trigger bow and threading it then putting a screw in it to impact the inside of the receiver stopping overtravel. Correct me if I'm wrong here bullitt.

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I think I may go the $5.28 route ($5.00 for the trigger housing + 0.28 for the screw)

I've used the ghost rocket quite a bit, and I think the set-screw is a better overtravel stop than using the ghost. If you don't want to drill and tap it yourself, you can always order a trigger housing that's already had the set screw installed from LWD or vanek custom. I got the vanek custom ultimate trigger stop and I love it.

Robbie

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+1 on the rocket connector with the overtravel tab.

I guess I can't recommend the LWD stop though- (at least not if you shoot like I was)

I ran one for 3-4000 in my 34 and eventually got a lot of doubles (or triples or more) :surprise:

after much investigation, and using the orange inspection cover, we discovered this...

having the trigger bar travel limited on the LH side by the LWD stop, the trigger bar would flex and allow the striker to slip off of the crucible. = double

it would even bow out the side of the frame a bit when it flexed.

I should mention that I was "riding the reset" or whatever we call it. break the shot and continue with rearward pressure on the trigger until I was ready for the next shot. then click/reset/boom.

upon discovering this issue with having the trigger bar stop on the left, I put the rocket connector in and trimmed it so that it AND the LWD stop made contact at the same time. this absolutley fixed my doubles and a few thousand rounds later, I think I can loose the left side stop all together.

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I use the Ghost Rocket w/ over travel stop on my 34. The Ghost accompanied with a .25 trigger job and an extra power trigger spring has been flawless for 10K+ rounds. I do replace the trigger spring at least once a season.

In my experience, if the Ghost Rocket is set up correctly they function very well.....YMMV

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Although I use the LWD trigger stop, I've seen trouble with them like Jones said. I saw a gun go full auto in a match, due to the LWD Ultimate Trigger stop. It may have been caused by the flexing, or perhaps there was a burr or something about the set screw that prevented the trigger bar from resetting completely (my theory).

After all this talk I may go back to the Ghost Rocket. But I've seen some Ghost connectors lately that have caused problems. The tab at the end that the nose of the connector rides on, and cams the connector down from contact with the fp, has been insufficient on some connectors to maintain contact with the trigger bar. The bar slips off the side of the connector, and gun doesn't go bangy.

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I've seen the problems with the LWD adjustable trigger stop that is mentioned. I've found that it is caused from too little overtravel. Back the screw out a half turn and no more problems. Most folks try to adjust the overtravel to its tightest position. This in turn causes the flex as well as striker drag which rounds and wears the foot of the striker down and causes possible doubles. Were talking .005" will cause problems. The thickness of a sheet of notebook paper basically.

In all reality.....the minute a Glock is modified in any way from stock configuration.....its 100% reliability is compromised. Even the 25 cent trigger job can be detrimental if done improperly.

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