JM Spring Kit

[dagz]

Since we are very far from Mike Carmoney to do his magic on our 625's(we are in the Philippines), I was wondering if this kit can somehow make our triggers better.

What's your consensus on this product?

The instruction insert says you file off the strain screw once you get a 7lb-pull. However, the disclaimer specifies Federal primers which again isn't available in our setting.

What if we use the JM mainspring and not file off the strain screw, tightening it the way with the stock mainspring, will it address the Fed primer issue?

I'm interested before I order on-line.

Again, thanks to all revo gurus, I am now a revo convert. (I see my forum friend Merlin also is.)

[inkedshooter]

I put the same kit in my 625 when i still owned it. I filled the strain screw down and had about 3 out of 100 rounds not fire. Then I installed a extended firing pin and didnt have a problem with factory ammo. Hope this helps...

[HitEcRedNek]

if you do it, be sure to order few extra strain screws ( and at the same time stock up on factory mainsprings and trigger return springs)...they will be offerings to the god of speed.

[Bubber]

dagz. There are many "magic" springs out there. My thoughts are to get Jerry's video on action jobs for the revo, that is after you have shot the dickens out of your 625. That way you have a baseline to compare what improvements you can do and what you would need. What primers are available in your neck of the woods? This will make a difference on stuff you may want to try. I used to use Winchester for many years and was happy with the feel of the trigger pull. And that is the imprtant part. You must fit the feel to your hands. Some actions are to light for me. It is all a preference thing as long as it goes bang... everytime.. Hope this is helpful later rdd

[dex_games]

The JM springs are not enough. You will still need the services of a good gunsmith -- preferably one that shoots revolvers himself (they're getting harder and harder to find in our neck of the woods, Dagz) and thus knows what he's doing.

A good action job has two components to it: 1) smoothness and 2) lightness. Smoothness is more important (heavy but smooth is better than light but gritty) and that's where the gunsmith comes in. He will disassemble all the action parts that come in contact and will stone them to get as little friction as possible. Some gunsmiths are better at this than others.

Jerry's "Revolver Action Job" video can show you how it's done, if you're mechanically inclined and have the right tools (sharpening stones, mostly) to do it yourself.

Bubber, right now, all we have are Winchester primers and nothing else. It sucks, I know.

And please add this to my Christmas wishlist:

1) A reliable source of Federal primers. Heck, even an unreliable source is good enough; I'll just buy once, but buy enough to last me two years.

2) That Carmoney decides to visit the Philippines with his magic Dremel and sharpening stones. San Miguel beer's on me

[Revopop]

mmmmmm...San Miguel...

[Matt Griffin]

The JM springs are not enough. You will still need the services of a good gunsmith -- preferably one that shoots revolvers himself (they're getting harder and harder to find in our neck of the woods, Dagz) and thus knows what he's doing.

A good action job has two components to it: 1) smoothness and 2) lightness. Smoothness is more important (heavy but smooth is better than light but gritty) and that's where the gunsmith comes in. He will disassemble all the action parts that come in contact and will stone them to get as little friction as possible. Some gunsmiths are better at this than others.

Jerry's "Revolver Action Job" video can show you how it's done, if you're mechanically inclined and have the right tools (sharpening stones, mostly) to do it yourself.

Bubber, right now, all we have are Winchester primers and nothing else. It sucks, I know.

And please add this to my Christmas wishlist:

1) A reliable source of Federal primers. Heck, even an unreliable source is good enough; I'll just buy once, but buy enough to last me two years.

2) That Carmoney decides to visit the Philippines with his magic Dremel and sharpening stones. San Miguel beer's on me

powdervalleyinc.com, Merry Christmas.

As for the springs, I just received a gun from Mike, and his final trigger job is about the same weight as where I had tuned my earlier 625, so it's not necessarily magic to bend the springs and clean up the action. I used a flat ceramic sharpening stone, followed Jerry's video, and put a good bend in the top of the spring. That got it down around 8 lbs, then I backed the strain screw out until failure, at a bit less than 6 pounds. I then bent the main body of the spring until I acheived the same trigger pull with the strain screw backed out 1/4 turn. Once I matched it, I tightened down the strain screw for that extra bit of insurance.

From my testing, both triggers are at or below 6lbs, and both smooth. Mike's has the better hammer and chamfered cylinders, of course.

H.

Edited July 9, 2008 by Houngan

[dagz]

I managed to D-I-M(Do-It-Myself) my 625 and installed the JM springs.

It is a lot lighter now though I couldn't truly quantify the poundage of pull.

I will try it out in the range tomorrow if it ignites all my available primers

If I backed out the strain screw, I mean the stock unfiled-off screw, does it risks getting dislodged? The instruction was to file off and tighten, isn't it?

Where can I get my spare screws and springs for my 625?

thanks for all the inputs!

[Toolguy]

If the strain screw isn't tightened down good, it will gradually back out more and more as you shoot. The best way to fix that

is to put blue Loctite on the screw and then thread it into the grip frame. Make sure to clean the screw and hole it goes into

with solvent first. After the Loctite sets, you can adjust it with a screwdriver and it will stay put. Do not use red or green

Loctite. Then it won't move at all.

You can get the parts from Smith & Wesson, Brownell's gunsmith supply, or Gun Parts Corp.

[hopalong]

I have tried Jerrys kit. It is a good kit for a "drop in" kind of thing.

Vic Pickett makes his "Black Majik" kit and I like it just a little better.

It has been "Cold tempered" (cryogenized) and that changes the temper and "action" of the spring slightly.

His (Vic) kit comes with 2 rebound springs that are also treated. If you are using Winchester, Remington, CCI ect. I suggest using the longer rebound spring as the shorter one may or may not be strong enough to reset the trigger with the mainspring tightened down enough to pop the harder primers.

I don't trim my mainspring set screws, and use the blue loctight instead. INFO: Blue loctight is actually a thread sealer vs Green and Red which are "Lockers".

You can contact Vic here:

mailto:match@icore.org

Hop

[20nickels]

I installed the JM kit and do not like the rebound spring, it is too light for the trigger to return quickly. I am going to install a stronger rebound spring and see if it works well with the mainspring just as soon as I get this figured out;

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry760609

Who makes a screwdriver kit for the new S&W revolvers????

[Carmoney]

I believe the Brownells 150-3 and 180-3 bits are the ones you need. I'm at the office right now so I can't look at my set, but I think those are the correct bits.

[kframe_mike]

I'm no expert by any means,but I'm really starting to prefer bending the factory mainspring and cutting 1 to 1.5 coils off the factory rebound spring.I think that the factory mainspring stores and releases energy better than the aftermarket springs.JMHO,-Mike

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

I installed the JM kit and do not like the rebound spring, it is too light for the trigger to return quickly. I am going to install a stronger rebound spring and see if it works well with the mainspring just as soon as I get this figured out;

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry760609

Who makes a screwdriver kit for the new S&W revolvers????

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...amp;s=1822#1822

With bit storage in the handle.

[20nickels]

That's the 4 bit set I have. Fine for the old guns, but doesn't fit my newer 625. Mike If you could check for me sometime. Tks.

[Gregg K]

That's the 4 bit set I have. Fine for the old guns, but doesn't fit my newer 625. Mike If you could check for me sometime. Tks.

My model 66 and my new 625JM both use the 150-3 and 180-3 bit for the side plate screws like Mike said.

[Tom E]

I have Bonanza/Forster screwdrivers. #2 & #16 for newer S&W's.

[20nickels]

Ordering brownell's #180-3 bit. Tks.

[S&WIowegan]

Just to add a quick comment on the Bang (Jerry's) trigger job kit. I used one to lighten the pull on a gun BC(before Carmoney) and the results were unsatisfactory. I followed Jerry's instructions to the letter and when I got done I had a gun that wouldn't ignite ANY primer! I went back over the procedure step-by-step and couldn't find a mistake I might have made. The strain screw ended up way too short......which is why you should order extras from Brownells before you start. The best way to use his kit is to file a bit, then test WITH ammo. Now that I have a bullet trap, this is more feasible.

Bob.

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