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STI GP6


shred

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got to play with one in the store..

ugly gun..but points well..and has a good grip size..feels similar to an SP01.

trigger pull is smooth, a bit long, maybe 7#..single action is really nice for a factory gun, crisp, felt like 3# and reset is really short; really short.

mag release works from both sides. wish it were a little bigger but I could reach it and work it with either my thumb or trigger finger. regular CZ mags did not work in it..didn't have an SP01 mag to try in it.

sights are basic three dot, front sight looks like it is made of plastic. they were useable..sure hope there will be options.

disassembly was a bit different..pull the triggerguard down, retract slide to the rear and lift off the frame. took me awhile to figure out how to reassemble, but guess once you get used to it, it would be easy.

the block in the frame seemed nicely made.

ambi thumb safety, even though pretty flat to the frame slide, was easy to operate.

comes with two mag.

price was like $580-$600

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whats a rotating barrel Radical?

the GP6 uses a rotating barrel for lockup..as the slide comes back the barrel rotates.

got to shoot about 50 rounds through one..the shot very soft with 115gr factory ammo..

the sights could be a little better..I don't like 3 dot sight though.

the DA pull is long, but the SA pull and reset is very nice.

It will need grip tape.

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Cool what is the advantage of a rotating barrel, just lock up?

Good question. About the only things I can think of would be a lower bore axis since the barrel doesn't have to cam or tilt and maybe slightly less felt recoil since the barrel doesn't move back and forth.

The rotating lock-up has been used in a number of different designs but I don't think any of them have really caught on. I've seen this lock-up in the dreadful French FAB or FAM or whatever that boat anchor was called and I know the Beretta Cougar also uses a rotating barrel.

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  • 3 weeks later...

It's a pretty decent article and covers the salient features of the gun pretty well.

I picked up my pistol yesterday. I haven't had time to shoot it but I'll see what I can do this afternoon.

So far, as others have noted, the trigger reach is pretty long for the first DA pull. Many people aren't going to like it, I don't think. The DA pull is fairly long and heavy but it's smooth and consistent all the way through. The reset is extremely short and the SA pull is fairly crisp with only a tiny glitch before the hammer falls.

Something I find slightly annoying is the hammer. It's looks like it's diffrent from the hammer used in Europe. When the hammer's at full rest, it partially blocks the rear sight. It's not too bad, really, but it's just a tiny bit too tall. I'm assuming the European hammer, with its more rounded rowl, will not do this.

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Any chance somebody could copy and paste it here? I am getting blocked at work when I try to go there.

-ld

It would be tough. It is a poor pdf version of the magazine article, i.e. not copy/paste friendly. Give me your email and I'll email the pdf to you.

That's fine. I will just read it when I get home. Thanks for the offer though.

-ld

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I shot fifty rounds of Remington UMC and a handful of WOLF 9mm and Federal 124 +P+ through my GP6 this afternoon. Accuracy is about as good as anything and the gun feels about like anything else. Claims about the rotating barrel reducing recoil seem to be overblown as these claims usually are.

The gun points good and follow-up shots are quick and easy with the short trigger reset. I did find one peculiarity, at least with my specimen. If I start in the DA mode with the hammer down, a slight amount of downward thumb pressure on the safety--ala 1911--will deactivate the gun and the trigger won't engage until the pressure on the safety is removed. In single action, with or without my thumb on the safety, the trigger worked fine. I always shoot with my thumb atop a pistol equipped with a thumb safety so changing my grip is going to take some getting used to.

Once the weather warms up I'll see about running against the timer to measure my splits.

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I shot fifty rounds of Remington UMC and a handful of WOLF 9mm and Federal 124 +P+ through my GP6 this afternoon. Accuracy is about as good as anything and the gun feels about like anything else. Claims about the rotating barrel reducing recoil seem to be overblown as these claims usually are.

The gun points good and follow-up shots are quick and easy with the short trigger reset. I did find one peculiarity, at least with my specimen. If I start in the DA mode with the hammer down, a slight amount of downward thumb pressure on the safety--ala 1911--will deactivate the gun and the trigger won't engage until the pressure on the safety is removed. In single action, with or without my thumb on the safety, the trigger worked fine. I always shoot with my thumb atop a pistol equipped with a thumb safety so changing my grip is going to take some getting used to.

Once the weather warms up I'll see about running against the timer to measure my splits.

Maybe you should let Kirkbride shoot it. If he can't break it then nothing can break it.

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I think I'm coming across as anti-GP6 and that's really not my intent, at least not yet. I haven't really had the time to wring the gun out and give it an honest shake. I didn't really "take" to my S&W M&P .45 when I first picked that gun up but it's fast becoming one of my favorite pistols.

The GP6 does point well and it tracks well from target to target. It is accurate enough for USPSA and defensive shooting but it's not a SiG P210. The grip is comfortable and the mag well has a built-in amount of flare that makes reloading pretty sure.

Other than the weird deal with slight downward pressure deactivating the trigger, the gun seems solid and simple. I guess Yaroslav Kuracina has never seen a 1911 or else hasn't read the works of Jeff Cooper. Maybe he doesn't realize the shooting thumb MUST rest upon the safety.

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I'm not an expert :unsure:

But i shoot in competitions with SP01, M&P, Sig X-Five and Grand Power K100 and for me the best is the K100....

why :

The DA is very long but very light.

The SA is very good with a very short reset.

The precision is very good

The gun is very light with a minimum of muzzle flip and The K100 does point well and it tracks well from target to target.

the manipulations of the slide is perfect with the serration and the ligth recoil sping.

The frame don't have a magwell, but there's an amount of flare that makes reloading pretty sure.

Other than the weird deal with slight downward pressure deactivating the trigger, the gun seems solid and simple. I guess Yaroslav Kuracina has never seen a 1911 or else hasn't read the works of Jeff Cooper. Maybe he doesn't realize the shooting thumb MUST rest upon the safety.

I don't see this kind of problem on the K100, i think you must check with STI for this.

Marc

Edited by PEETERSMARC
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Other than the weird deal with slight downward pressure deactivating the trigger, the gun seems solid and simple. I guess Yaroslav Kuracina has never seen a 1911 or else hasn't read the works of Jeff Cooper. Maybe he doesn't realize the shooting thumb MUST rest upon the safety.

I don't see this kind of problem on the K100, i think you must check with STI for this.

Marc

Marc,

Thank you for your response.

Can you please confirm for me that your K100 does not become inactive when the safety is pushed down?

When my safety is on, I can see a small ball bearing and a little blue insert. When the safety is off, the thumb pad lever is even with the slide. Now, from here, I can press down and rotate the safety down about 1 or 2 mm's and then the trigger will not engage the hammer. Note that this only happens when the hammer is fully at rest. The gun works fine when cocked if I push down on the safety.

I actually wanted to call STI but didn't get the time today. I'll call Monday and see if I can speak to a tech.

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Marc,

Thank you for your response.

Can you please confirm for me that your K100 does not become inactive when the safety is pushed down?

When my safety is on, I can see a small ball bearing and a little blue insert. When the safety is off, the thumb pad lever is even with the slide. Now, from here, I can press down and rotate the safety down about 1 or 2 mm's and then the trigger will not engage the hammer. Note that this only happens when the hammer is fully at rest. The gun works fine when cocked if I push down on the safety.

I actually wanted to call STI but didn't get the time today. I'll call Monday and see if I can speak to a tech.

Hello Tokarev

I check this morning on 3 different guns and i don't have any problem :)

When i push the lever down he can move downward +-1/2mm but all the fonctionabilities must stay effective :)

Sorry for my English

Marc

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Hello Tokarev

I check this morning on 3 different guns and i don't have any problem :)

When i push the lever down he can move downward +-1/2mm but all the fonctionabilities must stay effective :)

Sorry for my English

Marc

That's interesting. I'll definitely have to call STI on Monday and see if I can find out what's going on.

Don't worry about your English, Marc. You're doing well and your contribution here has been very helpful!

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I called STI this morning and I've got the gun scheduled to go back. I've forgotten who I spoke with but he told me he knew exactly what was wrong and would have the gun repaired and mailed back out with just a couple of days.

That's good news.

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  • 5 weeks later...

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