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Titanium Cylinder for 625


8ring

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The cylinder on my 625-3 has badly peened stop notches and must be replaced. I figured that a titanium cylinder would improve the action and be less prone to wear in that area.

I called SW and they said they don't have a titanium cylinder for a 625. Where do you find a titanium cylinders?

Thanks,

Chris

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^^ That's where I got mine. It is currently at a local Smith, I'm having both the ti and steel cyl. fitted so they are interchangeable :ph34r: . Report will follow.

Edit, has anybody tried the ti cyl. for 357? I'm thinking lightweight carry gun.

Edited by 20nickels
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^^ That's where I got mine. It is currently at a local Smith, I'm having both the ti and steel cyl. fitted so they are interchangeable :ph34r: . Report will follow.

Be forewarned--that may or may not be feasible. I recently installed a Ti cylinder in a 625, and found it was slightly longer than the original stock cylinder, requiring the barrel to be faced down to provide adequate clearance. Yeah, I guess you could put the steel cylinder back in, but it would have a pretty wicked endshake and/or cylinder to barrel gap problem.

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Thanks for the information. I ordered one from Speed Shooters Specialties today and it is already on the way. When it arrives, the 625-3 will be off the the 'smith in Colorado Springs for fitting and an action job.

Chris

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  • 2 months later...
The cylinder on my 625-3 has badly peened stop notches and must be replaced. I figured that a titanium cylinder would improve the action and be less prone to wear in that area.

I called SW and they said they don't have a titanium cylinder for a 625. Where do you find a titanium cylinders?

Thanks,

Chris

I know of three guns that S&W installed ti cyl.in cost around $250.00 EEH.

Edited by EEH
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I bought the Ti cylinder that is currently in my 625 early last spring DIRECT FROM S & W....Call them again and ask for a supervisor. Me and Chetta bought 3 of them at the same time..so you have been given some bad information. At one time (several years ago) they wouldn't sell direct ... but that is not true at this time.

Mine came very well chamfered and it is still in great shape after about 5K rounds. The only problem was that the star had to be 90% re-cut to work with the hand.

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The only problem was that the star had to be 90% re-cut to work with the hand.

On a newer gun with the same type of star, you can simply swap the old extractor into the Ti cylinder and avoid most or all of the fitting work. That said, I'm still not really sold on the Ti cylinder concept. I will certainly admit they solve the notch peening issue, though.

Edited by Carmoney
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  • 1 year later...
On a newer gun with the same type of star, you can simply swap the old extractor into the Ti cylinder and avoid most or all of the fitting work. That said, I'm still not really sold on the Ti cylinder concept. I will certainly admit they solve the notch peening issue, though.

One question .... i have 2 different models of Cylinder-Stop ...

- The forged version

- The MIM version

Now, with the steel Cylinder i use the MIM version, ... but ... with the Ti-Cylinder could be better the Old version (forged) ?

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When they quit making the forged cylinder stops, I laid in several spares for a rainy day. But they sit in the parts box unused, because I've had such excellent luck with the MIM stops. One nice aspect of the MIM stops is they don't ever seem to need any fitting work--they drop right in and work just fine. The older forged stops almost always needed to be fit to the particular gun. The MIM stops also have a nice smooth surface, and don't require much (if any) stone work to dress them.

So even if the Ti cylinder does accelerate wear on the cylinder stop (and I'm not at all convinced it will), replacing the cylinder stop once every few years is no big deal.

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  • 2 weeks later...
^^ That's where I got mine. It is currently at a local Smith, I'm having both the ti and steel cyl. fitted so they are interchangeable :ph34r: . Report will follow.

Okay, yr & a half later here's my Ti Cyl experience; :yawn: I put about 3K rds through this gun and countless dryfires and the Ti is no worse for wear. I have been hard on it with dryfires, doing fast splits. Notches look new, only difference is a turn line. I don't miss the weight of the steel cyl. at major PF, but going beyond that to some 250gr pin loads I have been playing with lately I put the steel cyl back in.

The one thing I like about my steel cyl that the Ti is lacking is Mike's chamfer job. The 250gr RNFP's fall right in perfectly.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I just had a Ti cylinder installed on a Model 22, really like the way it feels, however, I'm encountering a problem with the brass sticking in the cylinders.

Anyone have any suggestions? I can see scratches in the brass indicating that there is some roughness in the cylinders, not all though.

Called S&W and they said send the entire gun back.

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I have seen some Factory Ti Cylinders having sticky load problems at our club matches. Night guards in 45 acp. Only one I have personal experience with is a 342 and it does not seem to be any stickier than other J Frames, it never shoots long strings though.

I suspect easy loading moonclips after many rounds is something special and needs all the help it can get from clean loads and slick cylinders. If there was not a real compelling reason to go Ti might be best avoided

Boats

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