Grip Tape theory?

[98sr20ve]

I just did my own grip tape/skateboard tape for my G34. If I do say so myself it looks pretty good. It feels really sharp to the hand. That will take some getting used to I think. What I am wondering is this...Where do you put/like the tape and where should I not put the tape. For now I have not brought it up high into the thumb trough area. I have also have not put it on the backstrap area. It would seem the thumb area might be a good idea. But the backstrap would slow me down as far as sliding the hand onto the gun when drawing it out of the holster. I am thinking of getting it a bit longer on the left side of the gun. Right now it only covers the faux grip panel area. On the left if I extended it towards the backstrap it would contact my palm on my left hand. Right now my palm hits plastic. This is a SSP/Production gun BTW. Here is a picture.

When I finalize the design I will transfer my template to some metal and make a batch using one large piece of tape rather then the pieces I already had in the garage that I used in this picture. Thats why it's 3 pieces right now instead of one piece. Any thoughts?

Edit: And I will bring the bottom cutout on the front area higher to match the finger grove better.

Edited January 22, 2008 by 98sr20ve

[kevin c]

Great work, there. But I have to say that what you're trying to work out has been done already, and is available here, in sets designed to fit the Glock specifically:

http://www.ericwesselman.com/store/M&P.html

FYI, it's a two piece wrap around with slits to comform around the fingergrooves w/o puckering, and with a fine grit that isn't too abrasive. It covers the backstrap and goes up fairly high on the sides of the receiver (if you have the 2008 USPSA rules book, the diagram of where grip tape can be put on a Production Division gun pretty much matches how TruGrip fits on the Glock). Some folks trim various parts of the unapplied grip (you get three) for a custom application to their own liking.

I've tried stencil type multiple piece grip tape, and found the finish a bit too coarse. The small pieces also had a tendency to shift and peel off. The TruGrip described above is fine grit over a slightly elastic base, and wraps around and clings to stick quite well.

DYI is still good though! If too abrasive, I think skate board tape is finer that the stuff I've seen in hardware stores, meant to be put down on stairs. Make sure the grip area is very clean/grease free before laying down the tape.

Good luck!

[98sr20ve]

Great work, there. But I have to say that what you're trying to work out has been done already, and is available here, in sets designed to fit the Glock specifically:

http://www.ericwesselman.com/store/M&P.html

FYI, it's a two piece wrap around with slits to comform around the fingergrooves w/o puckering, and with a fine grit that isn't too abrasive. It covers the backstrap and goes up fairly high on the sides of the receiver (if you have the 2008 USPSA rules book, the diagram of where grip tape can be put on a Production Division gun pretty much matches how TruGrip fits on the Glock). Some folks trim various parts of the unapplied grip (you get three) for a custom application to their own liking.

I've tried stencil type multiple piece grip tape, and found the finish a bit too coarse. The small pieces also had a tendency to shift and peel off. The TruGrip described above is fine grit over a slightly elastic base, and wraps around and clings to stick quite well.

DYI is still good though! If too abrasive, I think skate board tape is finer that the stuff I've seen in hardware stores, meant to be put down on stairs. Make sure the grip area is very clean/grease free before laying down the tape.

Good luck!

Well, mine was free except for time and I was bored. It conforms perfect and I just need to clean up the one area under the bottom finger grove. I know it's been done but I am still wondering about bringing the tape onto the backstrap? Does Eric's do that? I can buy some finer grit once I work my pattern out. That was my first attempt and I was pleased with how it turned out. It will be simple to make the changes I am wondering about. I just am curious what the thoughts are about bringing the tape higher and towards the back.

[EricW]

Where and how you install grip tape really depends on how you grip and present the pistol. Take the time to learn about yourself and the decision on where and how much tape to use (if any) will make itself.

There are more than a few good shooters, including people who I consider to be good friends, that do not use any grip tape at all. Personally, I would not install any grip product until I understood how I gripped the pistol, whether or not I shifted my grip during the presentation, and had an idea of what I wanted to achieve by adding the grip product.

If grip tape is a solution to a problem, great. If you're doing it to keep up with the Joneses, take it off and leave it off until you need it.

[tgibson]

I have shot my Glocks with and without grip tape and I'll tell you that I put it anywhere skin meets plastic. I even have some up on the slide to aid in a quick rack. If I could only put tape in one place, shooting right handed, it would be on the left side of the grip where the fat part of my thumb touches the grip. FWIW.

TG

[Dave Gundry]

I would definitely suggest you put some on the backstrap. When I go for a draw, I will try to seat the web of my hand into the beavertail as high as I possibly can, then establish a grip and draw. It's a lot easier with a DOH holster, so for IPDA stuff it might not work so well.

If I could only run tape in 2 spots, it'd be the front and backstrap - the M&P is a slippery gun (for me anyway). But, now that I am running Eric's TruGrip, I'm in love - grip tape goes where ever the dotted lines in the rule book allows

To add to Eric's statement, it can be a subjective mod. I love it, as much or more than a nice trigger, but both of those mods allow for a sloppier grip and technique in the end. If you can work around it/them, then go for it, you'll be that much better in the end if and when you decide to add them - but I want to go fast now, even as a C/B shooter, but I'm just in it for fun.

[eerw]

for me grip tape really depends on the gun and the load..

for most purposes..I like tape on the frontstrap, the backstrap and where the heel of my support hand contacts the grip..those three points are the most critical for me..

98sr20ve hope to catch with you at a match ..

Edited January 23, 2008 by eerw

[Filishooter]

for most purposes..I like tape on the frontstrap, the backstrap and where the heel of my support hand contacts the grip..those three points are the most critical for me..

I like the same contact points. If you look at the picure you posted my tape would creep up from where you left off all the way up to the slide (I'm a lefty) and the other side would like like how you have it, plus the backstrap being covered. I like to keep the area free anywhere near my trigger finger. My finger doesn't contact the frame but I don't need anything to grab it just in case. I also don't put any near the bottom of the grip since I don't really grip there anyways. If it feels to rough you can take some sandpaper and knockdown some of the grit. It will take some time for your hands to build up to where it doesn't feel rough. Practice till you bleed!

Edited January 23, 2008 by Filishooter

[98sr20ve]

for most purposes..I like tape on the frontstrap, the backstrap and where the heel of my support hand contacts the grip..those three points are the most critical for me..

I like the same contact points. If you look at the picure you posted my tape would creep up from where you left off all the way up to the slide (I'm a lefty) and the other side would like like how you have it, plus the backstrap being covered. I like to keep the area free anywhere near my trigger finger. My finger doesn't contact the frame but I don't need anything to grab it just in case. I also don't put any near the bottom of the grip since I don't really grip there anyways. If it feels to rough you can take some sandpaper and knockdown some of the grit. It will take some time for your hands to build up to where it doesn't feel rough. Practice till you bleed!

Thats kinda what I thought. I think it would help my grip on my weak hand to go farther back. Not sure about the backstrap until I buy some less abrasive tape and try it. I also don't like it under my trigger finger but think it could go higher on weak hand as well. I will fiddle with it. I notice that my gun does move around more then I would like, hence my trying the grip tape. I may cut a little to go up higher and farther back, then knock it down some with some sandpaper and try it with out the backstrap. Then cut the backstrap into the next one and try it again. More things to fiddle with and notice what the guns is doing in my hand while I shoot. Key being me noticing things I guess. Thanks for all the advice everyone.

[Dave Gundry]

I would definitely suggest you put some on the backstrap. When I go for a draw, I will try to seat the web of my hand into the beavertail as high as I possibly can, then establish a grip and draw. It's a lot easier with a DOH holster, so for IPDA stuff it might not work so well.

I guess I never finished my statement -

I like the area where the web of my hand contacts to be clear of grip tape to allow my hand to shift into a grip position.

Rather than trying a 'more until you're happy' approach, why not try 'cover it all and remove until you're happy' method? I was trying the first method until I got sick of trying to make regular tape conform to the curves of the M&P, so I ordered up the TruGrip - now that everything is covered in it, I am completely happy - especially with the areas that I wouldn't have thought would make a huge difference...

[SA Friday]

I have shot my Glocks with and without grip tape and I'll tell you that I put it anywhere skin meets plastic. I even have some up on the slide to aid in a quick rack. If I could only put tape in one place, shooting right handed, it would be on the left side of the grip where the fat part of my thumb touches the grip. FWIW.

TG

Man, I hope you ain't trying to shoot production . This will be a 'welcome to open' bad ju-ju situation...

[Turbo23]

for most purposes..I like tape on the frontstrap, the backstrap and where the heel of my support hand contacts the grip..those three points are the most critical for me..

I like the same contact points. If you look at the picure you posted my tape would creep up from where you left off all the way up to the slide (I'm a lefty) and the other side would like like how you have it, plus the backstrap being covered. I like to keep the area free anywhere near my trigger finger. My finger doesn't contact the frame but I don't need anything to grab it just in case. I also don't put any near the bottom of the grip since I don't really grip there anyways. If it feels to rough you can take some sandpaper and knockdown some of the grit. It will take some time for your hands to build up to where it doesn't feel rough. Practice till you bleed!

Thats kinda what I thought. I think it would help my grip on my weak hand to go farther back. Not sure about the backstrap until I buy some less abrasive tape and try it. I also don't like it under my trigger finger but think it could go higher on weak hand as well. I will fiddle with it. I notice that my gun does move around more then I would like, hence my trying the grip tape. I may cut a little to go up higher and farther back, then knock it down some with some sandpaper and try it with out the backstrap. Then cut the backstrap into the next one and try it again. More things to fiddle with and notice what the guns is doing in my hand while I shoot. Key being me noticing things I guess. Thanks for all the advice everyone.

Just my .02 here. But I had tried what you are doing now for most of the same reasons a while back. #1 was the free factor

Thing I found was as you have found... too course... But for me it was too course without the bite (if you know what I mean) it hurt but yet did not stick to my hand very well. Then I stippled it.... Ok this is cool but it started to cut my fingers that are under the trigger guard and cut my hand in some areas and then not hold in other places like I wanted...

Then I held a friends blaster at a match that had Erics true grip on it.... This is it right here brother.. It does not have the harsh feel of what you are describing and really sticks to your skin. Plus the fit is great. "however I think your job is very nice"

I would suggest seeing of you can put your paws on some one's blaster with Eric's product on it and see what you think. What you have going could be what you want. But this is worth a look. Trust me.

Happy shooting, and like eerw said hope to see you at a match soon........ There is one in Aurora this Saturday......

Edited January 23, 2008 by Turbo23

[98sr20ve]

Thing I found was as you have found... too course... But for me it was too course without the bite (if you know what I mean) it hurt but yet did not stick to my hand very well. Then I stippled it.... Ok this is cool but it started to cut my fingers that are under the trigger guard and cut my hand in some areas and then not hold in other places like I wanted...

Then I held a friends blaster at a match that had Erics true grip on it.... This is it right here brother.. It does not have the harsh feel of what you are describing and really sticks to your skin. Plus the fit is great. "however I think your job is very nice"

I would suggest seeing of you can put your paws on some one's blaster with Eric's product on it and see what you think. What you have going could be what you want. But this is worth a look. Trust me.

Happy shooting, and like eerw said hope to see you at a match soon........ There is one in Aurora this Saturday......

Well, I knocked the rough off a little tonight. It's better. I tried a strap on the rear and I like it but it's not elegant by any standard. The back strap is the hardest part I just found. It's got the most curves. To avoid ripples I need to put the cut/break straight down the middle of the back. I know I can do it but like you say is it really worth it. The gun is better then it would be with nothing but that may not be saying much. I will take your advice and try a real version at the next match. I know several people have them here at the Pueblo West meets. So far I have used maybe 8 inch's of the existing tape I had so it's not a big loss. I will see about coming up to Aurora on Saturday. I had forgotten about that. Thanks.

[kevin c]

Just about all my competition guns have grip tape of one sort or another. Like the others have noted, the important areas for me are the WH side and the front/back strap. On 1911/2011 guns, I try to keep part of the WH side of the grip clear under the thumb safety, so my thumb doesn't hang up applying the safety.

[Turbo23]

Thing I found was as you have found... too course... But for me it was too course without the bite (if you know what I mean) it hurt but yet did not stick to my hand very well. Then I stippled it.... Ok this is cool but it started to cut my fingers that are under the trigger guard and cut my hand in some areas and then not hold in other places like I wanted...

Then I held a friends blaster at a match that had Erics true grip on it.... This is it right here brother.. It does not have the harsh feel of what you are describing and really sticks to your skin. Plus the fit is great. "however I think your job is very nice"

I would suggest seeing of you can put your paws on some one's blaster with Eric's product on it and see what you think. What you have going could be what you want. But this is worth a look. Trust me.

Happy shooting, and like eerw said hope to see you at a match soon........ There is one in Aurora this Saturday......

Well, I knocked the rough off a little tonight. It's better. I tried a strap on the rear and I like it but it's not elegant by any standard. The back strap is the hardest part I just found. It's got the most curves. To avoid ripples I need to put the cut/break straight down the middle of the back. I know I can do it but like you say is it really worth it. The gun is better then it would be with nothing but that may not be saying much. I will take your advice and try a real version at the next match. I know several people have them here at the Pueblo West meets. So far I have used maybe 8 inch's of the existing tape I had so it's not a big loss. I will see about coming up to Aurora on Saturday. I had forgotten about that. Thanks.

Good luck in your search.....

I hope to see you on Saturday at Aurora!! Look me up if you do

[bigtex84]

I might try some on the slide as one poster mentioned

Edited February 8, 2008 by bigtex84

[mike cyrwus]

you need some stippling..

[kevin c]

I might try some on the slide as one poster mentioned

Just be aware that what is allowed in various sports shooting disciplines varies - tape on the slide, as pointed out above, for instance, is not allowed in Production Division in USPSA.