CMV Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Ok, I'm sure I will get admonished about where else I could have found this but such is life. I searched to no avial. I am having a blaster built and am then going to break it in well before sending it to be Ionbonded. Any bluing must be removed prior to it being coated by Ionbond. Anyone with experience shooting a gun "in the white" Should I get the gun blued and then have it removed or just keep it well oiled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 In the white is fine - just wipe it down after each session with an oiled rag. As I understand it, removing bluing isn't all that tough, in the end.... But, if you're not going to shoot it for an extended period of time in the white, its just an expense that doesn't get you much (you'll have to pay to have it blued, and to have the bluing removed).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I shot my new open gun in the white for probably 3 or 4 months before sending it off the be hard chromed. Dont get anal about it, but keep it wiped off, and oiled as you normally would and you'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GentlemanJim Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I have shot several in the white for YEARS. Just wipe off any moisture or sweat..after use and give it a little oil. Blueing it will only cost $$$ that you dont need to spend. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I have an ancient single stack Open gun that got a new slide shortly before single stacks stopped being competitive....10+ years later and it's still in the safe and still in the white with no rust. Wipe it off after you shoot it and you'll be fine...add a little oil if you're in an area with more humidity or have had issues with your hand oils/acids rusting blued guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 A couple coats of car wax helps in humid areas too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlamoShooter Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 It has alot to do with your skin and the area. I have one that is six years old in the wight-STI and a new gun six months old in the wight. Its been rainy in San Antonio this year too. I don't sweat much and my sweat is not a high acid contint. I have a good friend that can Rust Stainless steel. No lie a low grad of SS but he can make it rust, just by handeling it. And if your gun rust = the rust will have to be removed just like the blue. If you keep it in the wight take it out of the bag when you get it home and put it in a dry ventulated area. Never leave it baged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSeevers Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 White is fine and most finishers will remove any rust accrued but sometimes I don't like them to do that as they mess up my hard work and time consuming finish. Or in other words they hit it with a non-discrimitory bead blast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Keen Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 I cannot agree more Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Most of my guns stay in the white forever. I am finally going to have some ionbonded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMV Posted September 19, 2007 Author Share Posted September 19, 2007 Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tx911 Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Should you break your gun in first before you sen it in for Ionbond? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radical Precision Designs Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 I prefer my personal guns in the "white". Of course they are usually stainless steel. But if you want to keep them "protected" from finger prints, etc. buy some Flitz brand "Gun Wax" and apply liberaly. If you can find some gun "Poly-Guard that would work fine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Ok, I'm sure I will get admonished about where else I could have found this but such is life. I searched to no avial. I am having a blaster built and am then going to break it in well before sending it to be Ionbonded. Any bluing must be removed prior to it being coated by Ionbond. Anyone with experience shooting a gun "in the white" Should I get the gun blued and then have it removed or just keep it well oiled? Browning Hi Power barrels are steel in the white. I just use common sense care for mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 I have a good friend that can Rust Stainless steel. No lie a low grad of SS but he can make it rust, just by handeling it. My brother always corroded wrist watches. It must be something in their sweat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38supPat Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I can make stainless rust, though it's not an immediate thing, I also corrode aluminum. However My Open gun built in '98 has never had anything on it, no blue, no hard chrome, nothing...just windup the dremel with a wire wheel if anything appears...otherwise I keep it well oiled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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